Sher

I'm sure this is the case. My criteria is in fact the Load rating. My original fitment was a Pilot MXM with a LOAD/Speed rating of 97H . After the 2nd pair started wearing and wet grip has always seemed less than I expected, I was unhappy with them Though on previous cars I was satisfied with them. I am now on 2 new Falken 97W with 2 in the shed (at

I fitted a Towsure FIXED ball, a Large Bumper protection plate and a dual Set of sockets in 2002 to my Galaxy 1.9 Tdi Ghia. Reason was less cost, added security and cleaner hands. Towsure gave me good advice. Bend the Socket holders Towards the Bumper. It worked. Perhaps its part of their Standard advice upon fitting now. Since then I have had a problem once or twice AFTER nudging the bumper protection plate and bending it slightly towards the Bumper. Solution bend it back by hand 1 or 2mm. I even tried using some anti slip fabric/ sponge attached to the rear of the protection plate to avoid the need to do this. It seems to have had little or no effect. Theory seems to say it should. The sensors have a problem when the car/sensors are very dirty and its wet. A quick wipe and they are back to normal. When reversing and the sensor starts to sound constantly I know I have 6" to go. Of course with caravan attached they do sound constantly. The cut needed to fit the Towsure bracket is about 5cm by 15mm at the centre horizontal part at the lower edge of the bumper and is not visble in normal viewing as it is so minor. You would have to look from below the bumper level to see it.

It is like many features on the Sharan/ Galaxy/Alhambra far more complex than it needs to be and hence more difficult and expensive to fix than the average car. Having said that I will not be changing it for another beast until something I judge to be better overall is available.

Speak for yourself adrienf. The South West of England enjoys a far milder climate than the rest of the UK. (Perhaps apart from Pembrokshire?) I've not read the whole of this topic but the answer is of course the introduction of a Time operated Immersion heater in the lower part of the water pipework. The small amount of energy used here, perhaps from Non fossil fuel sources, will give big savings in fuel usage and in comfort. These used to be available from Kenlowe but I am fairly sure that our Continental friends in Scandinavia make use of something similar. In parts of Canada I believe that parking places are sometimes equiped with Electrical plugs so that your car which is fitted with Fuel heater etc will be able to start when you return. Now that is cold!

Because the light levels involved are so low the Gas leak detection using a low intensity UV lamp is difficult. It needs to be carried out in VERY Dark conditions. Then it becomes obvious.

Battery in mine is a Litium 3V CR2032. Make immaterial. Available at most Supermarkets. I've never had to reprogram my system even though after 30 months the remote started eating them. 1 every 2 weeks whilst I was away from the UK. Upon return to the UK Ford took the car for 30minutes and replaced the internals.

So I wasn't dreaming when I mentioned in a previous posting that the gearchange/gearbox performance seemed to improve after I changed the same part. Do any of our real experts have any suggestions as to why? As regards price for this part in Spain I paid 180

I've searched for "coolant temp switch" but cannot find another post. Anyway to BrianAll use a multimeter to test the resistance when cold and hot, it should tell you it is a switch if the resistance goes between about zero and infinity.(open circuit). I would NOT recommend shorting it unless you are sure it is a switch! Perhaps just disconnecting it will help. If it is not a switch but a thermistor, as I suspect, the resistance will change from a high to a low value when it is hot. Values I do not know. Maybe someone else has the data?

Its not easy to pin point on the Ford Diags. Not as far as I know available except from the agents! A standard often replaced part on this model year I think This is off the Box mine am in:- F/C 1140358 EJE/SHAFT ASSY Part Number 1M213B428AA A.T.4F3 I have a 2002 115bhp 1.9TDi Galaxy Ghia This part may not be the only problem. The outer section of this assembly, the half shaft may be required as well. That can be sourced elsewhere at a good saving.

When I had problems with my Mass Air Flow meter (115bhp 1.9TDi) the engine would not rev over 3000rpm and it was way down on power. I was towing a caravan at the time. I banged the MAF with the heal of my hand and immediately I drove away I knew the problem was solved. I now carry a new MAF awaiting the time it goes faulty in a more permenant way

ABS braking is the most important safety feature introduce in the last 15 years or so. It should be a standard fit. Seatkid is right to want to squash Urban Myths as mentioned before. ABS is not totally foolproof but for the ordinary modern driver who does not have the opportunity to practise cadence braking on empty roads which are covered in snow/ice they are a life/car saver. Where I live we see ice and snow more than average for the UK and in my youth I had plenty of opportunity. Any idiot who tail ends because he has ABS knows nothing. I remember reading and seeing information that ABS will increase the braking distance compared to an experienced driver using the correct technique. I agree with big_kev on one matter though about rear wheel drive, provided the engine is in the rear, traction is better, steering is lighter and with a decent suspension system is easily controlled in all conditions.

It was way past my bed time. I usually fall asleep after 9pm and wake up around 3am. I notice 3 mistakes in my post. Should read "on the way to the engine" I am surprised that this device is present. Upon return to the fuel tank, which we know is a large object with a large surface area, I would have thought able to reduce the returned fuel back to a more normal temperature without this extra complication. I am obviously wrong otherwise it would not be there.

Thanks big_kev That's what I want info as to where I can read definate inf ormation not just nepharious Google Searches I can do myself, which repeat the same garbage churned out by PR firms who really do not undersatnd what is really going on. Question:- Does this cooling take place on return to the tank or on the way to the tank? I will try and look now.

Thanks mk2vr6 for the explanation. Is this common now on modern diesel cars? Here we have heat being thrown away and at the other end fuel being consumed in a most inefficient way by the preheater because the engine is so efficient. I've seen a lot of posts recently about this smelly polluting device over the last few weeks. I'm confused since (1) Diesel has a very high flash point temperature so the hazard is not as high as petrol. Throw a match on diesel and most likely the match goes out. Try the same on petrol and you get a mini explosion. We did not see fuel coolers before. (2) Surely the Fuel injection system adjusts for the temperature of the fuel so it can compensate for the reduced density of the fuel on the injection stroke or is this peculiar to the PD system. If the viscosity of the fuel is less the system will find it easier to push the fuel in and increase the fuel burn. I know/think that the system can control the fuel injected, when the MAF is faulty or disconnected the fuel injected is less and torque and power are way down. P.S. I obviously need to read more about the Diesel Engine system in the Galaxy, Sharan, Alhambra range. Anyone know where? Preferably not in German!!

Yes Its Itemm 11 I'm sure. Anyone know the technical reason for this?

I used Google to translate this so if it reads funny do not blame me:-

When I looked a few years ago I seem to remember I worked out it was an oil cooler for the gearbox? It looks very exposed to me. The complication of the Galaxy, Alhambra, Sharan is amazing and is why the Galaxy was the most unreliable car in the Ford range. The Sharan was more unreliable than the Galaxy. No figures for the Alhambra.

I presume you have found it but for others it is hidden away near the Bulkhead behind the Air Filter and MAF. Even the professionals were looking in the power steering reservoir for a lack of fluid when my Clutch Slave cylinder went. Anyone have a good/easy way of filling it up?

El Dingo's comment reminded me I use clear neoprene tube and ALWAYS make sure it is long enough to raise the pipe ABOVE the level of the bleed nipple before it drops away to the collection device. This prevents fluid draining out and air rising into the system. P.S. My biggest problem is getting clean fluid into the reservoir and seeing what level it is at.

Look here for a fairly complete list of tools http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...c=12454&hl= But watch out for the wind back tool. One member stated it was Left hand wind back but when I tried using it it didn't work. I had to return it for a Right handed clockwise tool. I found it impossible without it.

Should read The firing on one or two cylinders at 1st is symptomatic until the plugs/leads dry somewhat. Plus :- My almost foolproof method of finding HT faults on visible parts of the system was to look at the uncovered electrical system when it was very dark, away from street light/ car lights etc. and with the engine running. (Use a blanket over the bonnet when its dark?) A FAINT PURPLISH GLOW around various parts of the electrical system means it is (1) dark enough and (2) the HT voltage is present and is normal. It should be about the same intensity on on similar components-leads/ plugs A careful inspection to look for intermittent or persistant Sparks/tracks/mini lightening flashes may show. If nothing, increase revs until misfiring is evident look again. If nothing I often found that checking/reducing the Spark gap just slightly from the norm reduced the problem. The smaller gap meant that the spark was able to jump the gap instead of tracking elsewhere. Symptomatic of failing HT leads. I seldom had a problem with Copper HT leads with external suppressors though.

I used to get this problem in the 60's before the invention of that magical water dispersant WD40. This illustrates just how good it is/was. I once had a Hillman Imp which had snow blowing into the engine compartment whilst we were inside a Drinking Establishment on the Pennine Hills. We left and drove away from the tops and as the snow melted forming water the Hi-tension spark went down. When I looked everything was covered in snow and water. We were able to coast some miles down the road to within 200yards of a petrol station. One passenger who worked at Car Plan of Bury, knew about this new Magical Substance and we bought some. Voila! The engine started even though it was still covered to some extent in melting snow! The firing on one or two cylinders at 1st is symptomatic until the plug leads dry somewhat.

I bought these Falken Ziex ZE 512 215/55 R16 97V RF from mytyres and I was pleasantly surprised at how quieter + better handling I now have compared to the original Michelin Pilot MXM's. Somhow they look better than the original with the extra rubber which is supposed to protect the wheel rim. Perhaps the sidewall is stiffer? Too early to comment on wear. I had always been very happy with Michelins on previous cars but had been less happy with them on the Galaxy because of their poor performance in very wet conditions (tend to aquaplane?), poor wear at around 35,000 per tyre and cost at around

With the offside front off the floor and you rotate back and forward about 3 or 4 inches is there slackness/noise? This can be compared to the nearside front off the ground as a reference. Symptomatic of splines and inner CV joint wear.

As opposed to Variable Vane Turbocharger. The VNT method will be easier to apply. Though how one would apply VVT to a centrifugal blower? I suppose it may be possible. Or do modern Turbos include an element of axial-flow design? Thanks for the reply