bus_boy

Oh dear, replacement unit now fitted (in rain, deep joy). Apparently it is a better quality one. I'm getting quite good at this task now! This one does not make any loud buzzing sound from behind the dash, but now my dashboard battery light is on all the time ;) With engine running and lights on last night the batter voltage rose slowly to 13.5V. This morning on same test it fell to 9.6V rose a little then fell. I assume this all down to battery and chemicals etc... looks as if my alternator is not contributing. I have ran a VAG-COM over it and got nothing back of interest. Does anyone know of any weak connections or fuses in main box i need to look at? The ones in the battery junc box are all fine. Also, what are all those connectors underneath the battery junc box? Should I have a rummage in there? Cheers all.

Thanks for the advice guys. I guess i'll have to get back to the shop for replacement unit now. ;)

Hi Daran, If the + ve side of the alternator is the where the heavy cable is connected, then yes i've checked it. All I get is the 12.6 ish V that get at the battery (with engine running of course). I too have replaced a starter about a year ago. I did check cables, but there is a lot of road dirt in that area! Andyb

Hi All, I'm up creek again, this time it's alternator. It failed to start a couple of times and needed either a jump or an external charge. 12.6V on battery, 12.6V on battery with engine running. ;) I've had the battery drop tested and it's in the green. So I pressed ahead with alternator replacement.... Friday afternoon. The Bosch part number on my busted alternator is 028 903 028 E, it's rated 120A. My car is a 1.9TDI Mk2. I have just purchased and fitted a Lucas eqiv device purchased from Euro Car Parts this morning for

The pipe you're looking at is about

I'd have to go with the first answer here! I had same problem caused by me pushing the switch plunger in too far. Ooops. Easy to fit - just pull it out again.

I've had similar issue on a Mk2 Gal. SYMPTOMS: Internal door pull went 'floppy' 1st ACTION: Locked the door internally by pushing the lever, then couldnt open the door manually from inside (kiddie lock on) or outside, or with the remote. Bah! FIX: Remove door panel from inside. Earthed brown cable to a new point on inside of door. Unlocked via remote. Bought new cable pull. Removed whole lock/latch assembly (need open for this). Drilled out rusted end end of cable pull from latch. Fitted new cable pull and put everything else back. I'd say "cut the brown wire". But as ever with these things, it's your decision, and your consequence! Andyb

Should'nt think the SN's for the motors will make any difference at all. If it works - it works. As before I'd suggest you disconnect wiper motor from arms, then 'park' the motor by blipping once on the wiper stalk. Then have a peek under someone elses bonnet for resting position of linkage arms. A small amt of adjustment can be made on the wiper arm splines when you refit the blades, but dont rely on this for too much of the correction. It's the poition of the linkage that makes the difference. Perhops someone on here can help with a useful dimension of some sort to get you started? I'd send you something from mine... but my park position is'nt great!

Hi Sean, Yours sounds a little more straight-forward and a replacement motor looks like your answer if your current one doesnt work when unplugged from linkage. Whilst you have it all apart it might be worth checking the linkage - they can seize badly, common fault. I dont think earlier cars had their wiper motors controlled via a GEM (can someone correct me?), so in theory you can test it with direct power. You could drive your car down there without the wipers on and test it on site! Weather has been good lately. Just remember to power up and 'park' the wiper motor before you attach it to the linkage (which of course you marked the position of before you took it off!). Good luck getting the blades to park where they are supposed to! Andyb

Hi all, Been away from here a while - would like to say that's because i've had no trouble from my Gal.... but that would be a fib! Currently I'm in a tight spot. Started three weeks ago on eve of trip to MOT station when car got t-boned at a junction. Since then It has been in body shop. MOT has now expired, and I still have a busted door lock/cable to fix and the wipers. Wipers > Only work on full speed. Not action on speed one or two (normal speed). Replaced > Had new linkage about 9 months ago (old one had seized). Had new wiper motor about 3 months ago. With the speed failure I had assumed that the motor had finally given out after struggling with old linkage for so long. It did'nt fix problem. Then my mechanic tried a new column switch (ebay job) as well as checking fuses and relays (he pulled the lot!) No dice. This week it went into an auto electrician. He has diagnosed a GEM fault, and says I need to go to a main dealer to get it replaced. I have searched this board, but not really found anyone with the same problem, but there are people who have replaced them. What they did'nt say was whether they had them done at a main dealer, and/or how much parts and labour ran to? Consulting my TIS it says "The GEM controls the wiper interval and the windscreen washer function. In case of failure of the GEM, operation of the windscreen wiper in stages I and II is still possible". Is the a TIS typo, because mine is showing the opposite symptoms? I have also ran my VAG-COM over system, but it doesnt report anything in this area (plenty o others tho). So has anyone got an idea of how much a new GEM is going to set me back? Also, does it sound as if i'm going down the right path here? Andyb W reg Mk2 1.9TDi Ford Galaxy Problems so far (3+ years of ownership): 3 accidents / parking sensors bust / aircon pipework bust / MAF and low rev boost issues / Limp home fun / broken door lock cable / failed booster heater / split air filter housing / erratic rear wash wiper / new clutch / new starter motor / front wiper linkage / two sets of drop links / cracked alloy wheel / immobilizer preventing start up sometimes / burt out battery junction box / several flat batteries of late / cracked windshield replaced by AutoGlass (Grrrrr) / yeesh!!

Big J suggests that he might have to "cut away some of the fibre glass panel to get at it". I intend to follow him. A padsaw might be more use!

Cheers BigJ - i have exactly the same part here on the desk. Will order up the special tool (thanks SeatKid). Now all i need is a clear day and a decent hacksaw. Still, aircon is useful in the winter for clearing the screen - at least that's what I'm saying to missus.

bah - tried to edit my post and failed..... here is a better one in which i have spelt peoples names correctly! ##################################################################### Hi bigjeeze - i have almost the same problem. Only on my pipe it has sheared in two at the bottom of the "u-bend". I got details from Ford that suggested to replace the pipe it would need 6 hours labour and involve removal of the whole front panel. In a recent visit to my mechanic i got him to take a look at the job, and the pipe I purchaed from Ford. He didnt fancy the job and said that the pipe i had did not look like a fit to the join in the wing (in your second image). Did you split and re-join the pipework without using any special tools? Did you take off the whole front panel? Did you purchase you replacement pipe from Ford.. and if so do you still have to part number on the bag? Paul B >> Information on the receiver/dryer install would be very handy. It looks like i'll be tackling this job soon. Cheers Andyb

Hi big geeze - i have almost the same problem. Only on my pipe it has sheared in two at the bottom of the "u-bend". I got details from Ford that suggested to replace the pipe it would need 6 hours labour and involve removal of the whole front panel. In a recent visit to my mechanic i got him to take a look at the job, and the pipe I purchaed from Ford. He didnt fancy the job and said that the pipe i had did not look like a fit to the join in the wing (in your second image). Did you split and re-join the pipework without using any special tools? Did you take off the whole front panel? Did you purchase you replacement pipe from Ford.. and if so do you still have to part number on the bag? Cheers Andyb

cheers all - clutch problem now solved. My mechanic has replaced the clutch plate and concentric slave / bearing. Apparently the plate was just very badly worn and was "on it's last legs" as he put it. Since clocked up about 100mls with plenty of traffic q-ing > so far no smell. This is the last time I buy a car with a tow bar already on it. Andyb

:lol: didnt really want to bump my own post.... but I could really use some opinions on this. wr.t. to the flashing coil light I believe the accident repair center the vehicle attended after a bash last month, may have fitted the wrong spec brake bulbs. I have to check this. My pressing prob is the clutch. Last night i performed the TIS Symptom check : basically raising the revs to 2000 and letting out the clutch slowly in 4th with the hand brake on. If the engine stalls the clutch is ok. In my case it did stall, but emitted a nasty small from somewhere. I'm guessing my clutch has been contaminated. Following posts on the forum I checked my fluid reservior.... still up near the max. How much fluid would it take leaking from the slave to wreck it ? I spoke to my mechanic and from symptoms he suggests a new clutch (no surprise really!). He quoted me

cheers Mat ++ to quote wife "the one that looks like a spring".

I've since purchased an M18 socket after doing the one on mine. If you plan to do the Roll bar bush at the same time (a very easy job, and makes a big difference) you'll need an M16 too. Dont forget the drop link nuts need doing up to 100Nm - so might be a good idea to do spray the ones on there with easing-fluid the night before. Also jack it up nice and high allowing space to swing your your torque wrench in! If all goes well you should be done in under 45mins.

Help! Wifes just called me. Looks as if the clutch has given out. It has been a bit smelly for a while esp on big hill starts with a load on. I checked forum for posts and the upshot is, i'm not leaking any fluid so had hoped it may be a master cylinder problem. Today the 'coil' light has been coming on too (I replaced the brake actuator switch about 4 months ago to resolve it when it last lit up) and there has been a whisp of smoke too from teh engine bay. If my clutch mechanism is contaminated what has done it? oil? Do i need a new clutch? or would a poorly master cause these symptoms>? Thanks in advance for any help. Andyb

1. Andy 2. West Sussex 3. 2000 Zetec 115 TDi 4. A year and a month. 5. Yes, now i know what i'm doing. A warranty would be handy! 6. Nothing in first 6months. Then battery (perhaps not needed) and battery junction box

Thanks Turk. With the exchange rate of $v

Hi all - anyone know what these codes refer to? Do any of you veteran VAG-COMers know which sections of the thing are open on my Ford Gal 115TDi Mk2 yr 2000? There seem to be an awful lot that dont work. I'm using an EBay serial cable marked OBD2, and the Shareware Ross-Tech VAG-COM. Cheers ANdyb I am most interested in the Engine section one "17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation" ************************* VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Control Module Part Number: 038 906 019 BF Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 1088 Software Coding: 00002 Work Shop Code: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation P1556 - 35-00 - - VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Control Module Part Number: 7M3 962 258 F Component and/or Version: Multifunkt.Einheit 0001 Software Coding: 04097 Work Shop Code: WSC 01317 1 Fault Found: 01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors 35-00 - - VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Control Module Part Number: 7M3 919 283 Component and/or Version: Parkingsyst. SH RDW D01 Software Coding: 00117 Work Shop Code: WSC 01236 4 Faults Found: 01546 - Sensor for Parking Aid: Rear Mid-Left (G204) 31-00 - Open or Short to Ground 01547 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 31-00 - Please Register/Activate 01626 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs 37-00 - Please Register/Activate 01628 - Sensor for Parking-Aid: Front Mid-Left (G254) 31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

Hey Tiny - i had the same experience yesterday at Fords.

Scorpiorefugee has a good point. As a novice owner i committed the sin of 'underinflation'. During 6 months of use the edges wore off of my Matador Aquilla MP41's on the front. The back ones did not suffer so badly. Since then i have inflated them to the max in an effort to get some wear onto the center section of the tyre. [My drop links are also shot - would these effect tyres in any way?] I have now purchased replacements tyres from mytyres. I plumped for Matador Aquilla MP43's [215 55 R16 97] on the basis that the sales brochure asserted that they had the same decent handling properties but that wear life had been extended. They were

her e is a pos ting tha t wil l not bot her the sea rch eng ine ! As you are una ble to sear ch for any pos ts tha t con tai n 3 let ter s or les s. The se inc lud e oil, CPU and MAF - 3 ver y hel pfu l wor ds. !! No won der new bie s hav e pro ble ms. Am I off top ic now ?