Brookydave

Injector cleaner (whole bottle in 1/4 tank) as as masked marauder says - an Italian Service to the MOT. 4 is very high! Cheers Dave

I used very small cable ties. perkyl8r (4mmblue) and viper_performance (3mm x3 lengths) were the two ebay members I got mine from, and first claas products they supplied. Be very carefull how you remove the old metal clips. I believe it is easy to snap of the plastic stub pipes..

Just replaced all of mine. I purchased 3x1m lengths of 3mm Silicone vacuum hose in red yellow and blue from ebay - absolutely perfect for the long runs to the turbo etc and 1m 4mm blue for the larger hoses to the egr. Works great and Vagcom says I have the right boost curve and it goes better, so I am now chuffed.

Where do you live? somebody local may have vag com... Cheers dave

Pity I always turn an engine in its normal rotation. The crank pully had moved 1 tooth (marked it last time) and the securing nut was undone with a small ratchet and minimal force. Pulley came off with 2 small levers and light force - no need for a puller! The retaining bolt had picked up on crank (think it was rust holding it together), but managed to clean that up with split bolt. Will clean & regrind taper tomorrow evening. Then we will see how many valves its bent... Still at least I know what the problem is! Thanks again. Dave :D

Thanks for replies. I abondoned the Galaxy and went on holiday in the Shogun. I have checked all the pulleys. But the slipping crank pulley is a gem, and would explain why both cam and diesel pump slip by the same amount :D At last I have a feasible explanation. As an engineer I assumed the crank pulley was keyed (I was also taught never to assume anything :lol: ). I wondered why I got a new crank bolt with the Gates cambelt kit (further embarassment). Any way thanks Masked Marauder for pointing that one out. I know what I will be doing this Saturday. Dave

I brought my 98 90BHP tdi as a non runner. When I investigated I found the cam and diesel timing out by 1 tooth. Moved it around and it started 1st time. Went OK for a week, then the fault repeated itself. Bought a new Gates kit of belt, tensioner and idler. Went OK for a week and jumped again. I am getting quicker at belt swaps, but it is getting me down. Anybody have any clues. I have TIS, and tensioned it at correct point with nib and gap in alignment. Help please.... :16:

Timing belt has jumped 1 tooth on cam and pump sprockets :angry: Allegedly had a new Gates belt and tensioer on when I bought it! Of to buy a new belt and tensioners from Ford in morning. Ah well I hope that fixes it.

Thanks for the quick reply Bigjeeze, but it does not add any light I am afraid. Thanks again Dave

Well the Galaxy has been well behaved for a few weeks, then it got difficult to start, now it won't start! Its a late 98 1.9TDi Plugged Vag Com in it says: VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-S Chassis Type: 7M - VW Sharan Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,18,19,29,36,37,39,45,46,55,56 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Controller: 028 906 021 HC Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 00SG 1905 Coding: 00002 Shop #: WSC 00020 1 Fault Found: 00550 - Start of Injection Regulation 17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent Readiness: N/A Anybody know what this means in english please. Many thanks Dave

Thanks rusper. Yes its the socket only that is there, but that was good enough to find out there is only fault code (MAF) which I suspected as it wont exceed 70mph. Thanks again Dave

Trying to find the ecu on my late 1998 tdi Galaxy. I believe it is under the ashtry? Is this the ashtray by the gear stick with cup holders to sides, and if so any clues as to how to remove it please (must be small!!). Nearly there! Ta Dave

Newbie question - sorry. I have a laptop with good coms and a semi dead Galaxy 1.9 tdi R reg. Am I correct in thinking that I need a usb vag-com link and some software - as sold on ebay to communicate with the ecu to read fault codes etc. Just seems strange using VW software to talk to a ford. Any tips, suggestions etc welcome. tia Dave

Thanks Scorpiorefugee. The wire had gone brittle and broken off. Repaired wire and now have 10v on the glowplugs for about 8 secs. Still wont start. nearly gets there, but what with lack of oomph, I think the diesel timing is out. Will wait for the manual before attempting that one. Thanks again Dave

Update. New battery. New glowplugs test OK for continuity. BUT no volts to heater rail + insulation removed from supply cables.... Some cowboy has beat me to it. Need wiring diagram now. Presume fuse or relay or broken wire (which is why the water temp gauge does not work). Still rest of car in great nick, so chuffed.

Hi there, Just joined you lads today, as I have purchased today a very poor starting R reg Galaxy tdi. It will only start after a long tow, and doesn't seem to have any turbo oomph. I believe this all started after a cam belt change. I will check the glow plugs and cam/diesel pump timing - Are Gates belts OK on Galaxy? - however my main question is: There is a clear blueish section of pipe that leads to the fuel pump. There is an awful lot of air in this pipe even when running. Is this normal (doesn't seem correct). If abnormal any clues to its origin (replace fuel filter?) Thanks in anticipation. Dave