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There are two similar switches, one for the aircon on a V6 that is NC > 4 deg C and the booster heater switch which is NC < 10 Deg C. I can't help with the part number listed as the catalogue just says it is a temperature switch. I think the one you want is 701 959 625 though and is about

Any ideas anyone?

Hi all, After another visit to the garage today they have removed the ambient air temperature sensor and claim the booster heater does not come on anymore! I will be able to confirm this tomorrow morning. They also told me they placed the temp sensor in a fridge, let it get cold then stuck a meter across the contacts and claim when cold it is open circuit and when warm closed circuit. This is arse about tit as far as I can see from the wiring diagram. This then raises the question did they replace the temperature sensor with the correct component, they first changed it in Jan 2006, later they replaced the complete booster heater and then changed the ambient temp sensor again a month ago so ago. The part number on this item is as follows.... it is a VW part no 1J0 959 625 Just to refresh memories my original problem was the booster heater often failed to come on in the winter even when external temp was -4 etc. After finally replacing the complete booster heater assembly and the metering pump it comes on all the time (until water temp reaches 75c) even in the recent 37c heat. Could there be two types of temp sensor, one which is NO and one NC? My Galaxy Ghia was manufactured in Nov 2001, around the time of some subtle changes? Regards, Paul

The sensor has not been bypassed, they replaced it again last week! I can only assume that the control module in the replacement booster heater is faulty? Is there anyway I can get hold of a soft copy of the TIS that describes how the bosster heater works ? Could anyone post the appropiate section on here of email it to me directly? Regards, Paul

Hi all, Some time back I posted that I had the booster heater that was very intermittent with starting up. Eventually the booster heater and metering pump were replaced and no I have no further problems with the unit starting up, the problem now is it always starts up regardless of ambient air temperature! My understanding is that the booster heater will only run when the ambient air temp is below 10c (approx) and the water temp is below 75c, when either of these temperatures is exceeded the booster heater shuts down. What I was looking for is a document that details this that I can show to the garage that are trying to repair it as they are under the belief that it should always start up to assist the engine to get to operating temp more quickly. I do not agree with this and cannot see the point of the ambient air temp sensor if this were the case! Ford technical support is of no use. Can anyone point me to a document or contact that can inform my garage of the correct operation of the booster heater please? Regards, Paul

Also, as someone has already mentioned, R.T.F.M :D it states that the aux heater switches on when the temperature is below 5 C "*or the coolant temperture is below 75 C*" "*not entirely sure about the coolant temperture (75) and whether its an or or an and 10C in my manual and on the Ford technical document I was sent ! In any case my problem is the heater booster is ALWAYS on until the water temp is reached. the external air temp can be 5C, 10C 25C... it will happily come on regardless :-) The suggestion regarding the wire for the temp switch on the wiper arm is what I want to do but I would really appreciate how to locate it. My Galaxy is a Feb 2002 model. Regards, Paul

Something similar happened to me recently...... 50,000 miles of trouble free motoring without missing a beat I picked up my car from the garage after one of the many attempts to rectify my booster heater problem. On the way out of the carpark it cut out on me and I did notice the red LED on the door flashing as well as hearing a muber of relay "chatter" at the same time. This happened a number of times on the way home, each time is stopped I was able to restart. Driving along the Windsor relief road it died again and this time it was a little scary so I pulled over onto the verge and called the garage who sent the AA out to resue me! The garage claimed it was a dodgy earth, it did make some sort of sence and I had checked the battery terminals as it sounded like electrical failure to me with the chattering relays. Anyhow all is fine now. Maybe checking the earths is worthwhile although I would have no idea where they are! Paul

any ideas anyone?

Hi all, I mentioned sometime back my heater booster was unreliable on my 2002 Ford Galaxey 1.9TDI Ghia. I eventually got the heater booster and the metering pump replaced under warranty and now there is no problem with the unit firing up. What concerns me now is it always seems to fire up and I cannot remember if this is normal? I appreciate the external air temp sensor is under the wipers somwhere and is not related to the temp indicated on the instrument cluster or air con unit but I hear the booster heater fire up when these sensors indicate 15c! My understanding is that the water should be below 77c AND the external air temp should be below 10c Not had a really hot day yet do verify over 15c. Are there more then one type of booster unit and could they have fitted the older type? Regards, Paul

Anyone ?

Masked, Thank you for your information, this is all coming together now I think! So can you tell me if my following assumptions are correct.... The metering pump is also referred to as the injection pump and is controlled from the booster heater module? The control module determines how much diesel the metering pump should squirt in based on water temperature measured by the temperature sensor located within the booster pump housing? Other questions I have are.... From your previous comments am I correct to assume that corroded connectors on the metering pump are a common problem? It is common for the metering pump itself to fail on an intermittent basis? Do both the ambient air temp sensor (below 10c) and the water temp sensor (below 75c) have to be active for the booster to operate, i.e both rather then either? Apologies for lots of assumptions but here is one final one for now :-) If I'm close with the above then the checking and/or replacement of the metering pump would take place well before any thought about replacing the entire booster unit?

I had a new compressor fitted when my Galaxy 1.9TDI was just over three years old. This was as a result of it not chilling at all and was noticed during the first warm period of last year during April. The comressor was fitted by a BT Fleet garage agter a number of previous visits where they swapped one thing or the other, regassed etc. I can also add the the climate control unit started flashing for 10s once the ignition was turned on indicating a fault. This compressor lasted about a month when the aircon failed again! Further visits to BT Fleet (Reading) resulted in me insisting that they take the vehicle to a Ford Dealer (Reg Vardey in Reading). Compressor changed again and it was ok for the rest of the summer. I leave it on auto all year and did test it the other week where it was blowing cold air aorund 5c. So I am on my third compressor but fortunately have not had to pay for any of them.

I'd agree with this. My Galaxy bleep at me and the glowplug indicator came on together with the workshop text. Shortly after I noticed the brake bulb warning light did not always go out when you applied the brakes and noticed the brake light did not always work. After having the brakelight switch replaced all was back to normal. Regards, Paul

Thanks for the information. Look from what I read here this is not an uncommon problem so I will go and check these out. Thanks again. Regards, Paul

I have seen reference to the metering pump and can see on the wiring diagram it is within the booster heater. Looking and the disasembley instructions I can only see a fuel pump and what is described as a blower motor, am I correct to think this is the same thing as the metering pump? Out of interest (I'm not a mechanic) can some one give a brief description how the unit generates heat? I thought diesel had to be compressed heavily to combust? Also what makes the characteristic "ticking noise" and what makes the turbine sound? Regards, Paul

Heck, this was me 1 month ago! I took my Galaxy into a BT Fleet garage for a heater problem and came out with the radio volume going up and down (not normal AVC opertion, this was buggered and turning off AVC fixed it). Then my parking sensors failed in exactly the same way as yours did. Did not notice the wipers but then I don't think I used them. Took it back to the garage who ended up replacing the reversing control unit and another unit that was called something like a speaker control unit also situated under the passenger seat that must detect vehicle noise and control the radio AVC and wipers I guess! Mine was water in the footwell and my rear washer hose had come adrift. I'm not sure about these scuttles but I want to chack them, how can I find them ? Regards, Paul

Hi all, just found this forum and it looks like just what I am in need of! I have a Ford Galaxy 1.9TDI Ghia Jan 2002. Around November last year (2005) when I took it in for an MOT and whilst the outside temperature was between 0c and -4c I noticed that the booster heater failed to strike up. I noticed this because I am used to the ticking sound and also the turbine noise it can make when running, I also noticed the engine temperature gauge never got above 70c where it normally sits at 90c. This was the start of a long saga which is still ongoing despite numerous visits to the BT garage at Langley in the UK. The problem now is that this diesel powered booster heater will often fail to strike up resulting in the car interior taking ages to warm up and the engine temperature to run lower then usual. What I have concluded is the heater is less likely to strike up if the car has been left overnight on my drive at home where it sits with it nose about 4 degrees higher in elevation then the rear. If I leave it overnight on the flat then the heater seems more likely for strike up. To date the garage have replaced the external temperature sensor (the one that should kick in when the ambient temp drops below 10c. Other then that I presume they have done some diagnostics but I guess it is usually working when they have it! They have also replaced the glowplug. I now have the documentation on the unit from Ford technical and am confident I now understand who this device operates (at least electrically). I appreciate that the unit is controlled via an external air temperature sensor which activates below 10c and also a water temperature sensor which is located within the booster unit and activates below 75c, there is also an engine running signal that operates a relay that supplies 12v to the as an engine running signal. The problem I am facing is the garage is now trying to tell me after three months they cannot fix if if it isn't broke when they have it, I am arguing I have told you it is intermittent for the last three months and now the ambient temp is increasing it is going to get harder to demonstrate the problem. I have spoken to a number of people and there is a thought that an air leak in the diesel feed to the unit might explain why it seems to fail when stood over time on an incline, I presume if this were the case the leak could be even inside the booster unit ? So that the story but what I would like to try and understand from you knowledgeable people is..... There are two temp sensor, external air and internal water. What combination operates the unit AND OR? i.e if the external air temp is higher then 10c will the unit not operate regardless of water temp? Or could the unit operate if the air temp were higher then 10c but the water below 75c? When the unit fails to strike up after a period of time 90s it shuts down, does this write an event to the WDS log? If it does write an event and assuming that these are saved for sometime then if the heater fails to start say 5 times a week would it be obvious from WDS that there is an intermittent problem? Are these units known to need replacing or do they last forever? Any help would be much appreciated. My warranty is due to expire at the end of April and I get the feeling they are trying to string this out to avoid replacing an expensive unit. I can understand this if they have never seen the problem "live" but how can I prove to someone I really do have a problem! Regards, Paul