PhilH

Or maybe even 15 inch which are cheaper tyres still...

Thanks for your reply Xavier. I have a full size 16 inch steel wheel as a spare yes. I'd still need a spare though. The other thing (trying to not distract from t he original question) is that I was told the two rear tyres are wearing in the centre, pointing to me over inflating. I understood from a post somewhere on here the 41 psi all round was correct for 17 inch tires on the galaxy. I can't get any official ratings from ford. Which is another reason for me wanting to drop down to 16 inch which seem to be "supported" and I can get some figures on them.

Hi Guys, A bit of advice please. I have 17 inch alloys on my Galaxy, I believe they came as part of the elegance pack when the original buyer purchased the car. I've suspected a buckled alloy for the past few months. I had damage to one alloy causing a slow leak repaired at the cost of 40 quid and it didn't fix it. After an MOT yesterday, they confirmed that two of my wheels are buckled, both these tyres have symptoms of slow punctures. One of the buckles is at the front and causes pulling to that side and a bit of shaking through the steering wheel. I'm now not really sure how to resolve the problem. I've read mixed things about having buckled alloys repaired. Plus, 17 inch tyres are expensive. The alloys look really nice, but at the end of the day, it's a family car that I want to drive well as opposed to look great. I'm tempted to check out ebay for some 16 inch steel wheels. What would you guys do? It's not urgent but I'd like a smoother driving car that doesn't pull. (I confirmed the pulling was the wheel by swapping left to right). Can the galaxy take 15 inch wheels, or would that just look silly...?

So the wife has just also mentioned that yesterday when she started the car she had a flashing warning light and "Engine Workshop" displayed. This happened for the duration of the journey and hasn't happened since. No fault codes though.

The more I read the more I think you're right. I'm not sure I fancy it myself either! Any ideas of replacement costs?

Brilliant, thanks. Will check that out. No wonder I couldn't find anything about injection pump problems lol

Hi Guys, I'm getting a metallic knocking noise on idle when cold. It seems to be coming from the auxiliary area. I found You Tube vid ad at abotu 46 seconds this is similar to the noise I'm getting. It occurs a few seconds after starting the engine, once the revs have dropped down a bit. Is the Injection Pump a common problem and is it easy to change? If this was the problem would there be any fault codes logged as I have nothing other than an immobiliser fault which seems to pop up now and then. The noise reminds me of when I had a Mondeo TDCi and the crank pulley was rattling about. My first thoughts were perhaps a pulley of some kind. I have also noticed that the aux belt is quite badly cracked and needs replacing. I can't see how a cracked belt could be the cause though. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. It's not DMF by the way, dropping the clutch makes no difference. It's a 130 AMZ 1.9 TDi btw

Good advice, thanks.

I had a rear door speaker not working and an intermittent electric window. I removed the door harness to reveal some cut wires. I've soldered and fixed the wires however, I have broken the circular clip that retains the harness connectors either side of the body panel. It's a round clip with 3 red tabs on both sides. Does anyone know if this part of the harness or whether they can be bought separate. Searched eBay but no luck... Cheers.

It's funny you should mention the intermediate driveshaft as it seems to have started since changing that! Why would that cause a gear crunch?

I'm getting a second gear crunch on my gearbox. I only seem to get it going from first to second, going down from third to second is fine. If I go from first to second very slowly an gently I can avoid. Other gears seem fine. Do you think a gearbox oil change would fix this? I've found a couple of posts where uprading to a more expensive gearbox all has fixed some gear crunching. I seem to have found more poeple with 2nd to 3rd issues than 1st to 2nd though.

Well it's been in 5! times now and I have a full refund on the original £32 quid the charged me for the tracking. The last time was today and haven't been able to give it a good run to see if it's finally been tracked straight. They did say that they've checked over all the suspension and they don't know why it's pulling to the right. I think I'm now back to the intermediate driveshaft being the cause :( I'm regretting not getting the polish part and going for an eBay part now.

Ok I'll getu nder and have a look. Would it still be suspension even if the wheel goes back to centre (stops pulling right) when knocked out gear?

Just thinking about it.. at the same time as doing the dirve shaft, I tightened up the lower wishbone bolt as I'd notice a bit of a knocking... could it be a worn bush causing it perhaps?

My car is pulling to the right. I've had the tracking done twice (they screwed it the first time and put it back to how it was the second time - £32 well spent! ). I've now noticed that if I put the car in neutral, the steering wheel visibly centres itself and the pull to the right stops. This started after I replaced the intermediate drive-shaft. Can anyone suggest (I'm not replacing the drive shaft again ! :) ) what might be causing it and how I can troubleshoot?

After changing the intermediate shaft (with polish parts or not) did anyone else notice their wheel alignment had gone out? Mine now pulls to the right.

That's the part I've just changed.

I replaced the shaft and stub today. All seemed to go very well. After i assembled everything i tried to spin the one wheel which was off the ground. It was very tough (not sure if it normally is?) i gave it some until it turned but with a scary clicking sound! I think it's coming from the inner cv joint, I think. I got it back down and slowly drove forward with a slight turn and the clicking was still there. What could have gone wrong? Could I somehow have done something to the inner cv joint? I moved it around a lot trying to get the intermediate shaft into the stub. I'm scared to drive it now but on't know what do next. Any advice please?

Hi Guys, I'm attempting to change the intermediate driveshaft tomorrow. This will be the first time I've got the car up on stands at home, before now it's been round a mates house. I have a few questions. 1. The trolley jack and axle stand set I have is Sealey and rated to 2 tonnes. They've always been fine on a Mondeo but I'm aware of this being a much bigger heavier vehicle. I'm thinking axle stand either side and they jack in place for backup. What do yo think? The axle stands are the 3 legged folding type. (it has a full tank of fuel too) 2. Once I've got the tray out of the way, could this actually be done with the car on it's wheels? I'm doing it on my own so won't have anyone to stand on the brakes to undo the splines. 3. Am I going to be able to get the stub in on my own? It seems everyone struggles with compressing the spring enough to get the allan key bolt started. Any advice greatly appreciates. Cheers.

There are others on eBay for about £100. Those guys did say they'd be dropping the price once they got their order in - it was actually 700 they're getting in not 70. I think the original pats are suspect anyway so will jst get something brand new. Cheers for the tip about the breakers though, I'm sure they'll come in handy :)

Well after lying under the car for a few hours with a prize bar, we found nothing. If anything it has now got worse and we're convinced it's down to drive-line, When I pull forward and back on the drive, when the clunk happens, my partner in crime said the front wheel juddered/wobbled in line with the noise I've been getting. It's no longer a clunk but more of a grind. I wish we'd checked both wheels no thinking about it, that wobble was on the driver side. Unfortunately the shop I was going to buy the intermediate drive-shaft from closed early on Saturday. They also put the price up from 79.99 to 399.99! Apparently they are short on stock but are getting 70 or so shipped in from China in about 10 days. I've emailed these for a quote http://motomax.eu/. I just hope if it is the problem, that it holds out. It's only being used for the nursery run at the moment.

Thanks seatkid. I'll have a close look on Saturday but one side of the turbo was absolutely clean (the inner engine side - best way I can describe it and I think where the oil supply pipe is?) I think someone may have suggested it could be grease from a failed joint as there was both oil and grease in the mix. We had a clean up so will have a good look again on Saturday. I was about ready to throw the teddy out of the pram and go and trade it and cut my losses! I thought £350 cambelt/water pump change... £500? on the turbo... I've got a sticking caliper on the front driver side... this bloody clunking and then what if the DMF goes... ... and relax :) Did I mention the air con doesn't work? I definitely dropped the soap....

I wish I'd found this site first mate. The problem was I was under pressure from the wife to buy something cause she wanted everything in place before the (third) baby arrived, due any day now, and I'd travelled a fair way to buy it. I regret the purchase but need to live with it now and get it sorted. I think I'm overreacting a little bit but time will tell :) I'll get the clunking and and turbo pipes sorted then the dmf will fail :/ maybe I should have gone with the Toyota Verso :rolleyes:

I did thanks. I must admit to being in a bit of a panic on Saturday when I posted.

Ok thanks. From reading through lots of threads, the knocking I'm getting could be from a loose bolt in a wishbone, a track rod end, gear box mount and a number of other things. The fact it was happening in conjunction with gear changes may have been throwing me, or it could be the intermediate driveshaft. My plan for Saturday is to get it back up on the axle stands, inspect, shake and rattle everything. If I can't see anything, change the intermediate driveshaft (low funds and convenience means I'm going to go for a cheap one from ebay - plus it's slightly guess work). If all that fails then I don't know. I'll post an update on Saturday. Cheers again for the advice.