jasonic

Can anyone recommend a good general book / intro / best practice for car / boat electrics ? I have no car or boat or 12 volt experience till now. Have wired homes and offices in UK, USA and now rewiring my small home in France. Each time new decade, new vocabulary, another system and code to absorb. But they all have 3 wires (or should..!) Where to get started learning basics of working with 12 volt non-grounded systems ? thanks for any suggestions ~ book / web / ??

hmmyeah.. >> engine off / stereo keeps playing till key removed << that's what I need ! sorry I don't quite understand when you say: you will need to wire both memory and + wire to the constant live the one that the stereos orange/yellow is connected to on car -- Please can you explain/describe a little more to help me identify which are the memory and + wires ?? -- is the + wire always same color ? --- if so what color ? --- if not, how to know at a glance which one it is ?? {sorry for such basic question - I've wired houses, but almost zero car electrics experience till now} -- I did notice / wonder ~ there was an extra unconnected short length of wire - coming off the red {I think} in a Y- junction. -- any idea why that is there? ..thanks

thank you car is LHD the main switch unit is on the left but is broken and chewed up. Local breakers yard might have a part in stock may be tomorrow may be someday meanwhile .. I took the car back to the garage to get my AC sorted. Gently carefully pointed out that while before fixed something, they had also made others worse the previous time specifically, driver window now had really jerky clattering movement, and its switch inverted. They agreed to look at it. By the time I returnedn they had taken driver door all apart, and removed the window completely - mechanic was off working on some other job. Some while later I looked in, and everything was back and working really nicely. I asked the mechanic where the problem had been exactly ? He just shrugged, paused, smiled shyly and said: "Took everything out ~ Put all back ~ Now works !" I am translating..He's young, Spanish, living working now in France. He speaks french in very thick Spanish accent ~ so a little hard for me to understand. glad he fixed it, wish I knew more precisely the repair though. Locks all work, and windows open & close correctly, smoothly from inside and out. They did not charge anything for this work! The only function now missing: the remote key fob still does nothing.

thanks ..as it happened, while local garage was testing and refilling the AC, they offered to glue windscreen trim back. Applied some good strong black mastic. Only charged me a couple of euros = ok Told me to wait 48 hours with tape over it. Any excess can remove carefully with a knife. It has now hardened up really well.

Yes > Mk1 1.9 TDi 1996 But I suspect that has little or nothing to with it..as car stereo color schemes seem to be very standardized. Thanks to bigdave982 advice above here, I removed my radio and checked the red/yellow wires. Noticed that the those wires had been cut, and very crudely swapped by a previous owner. So I redid the connections, reverting to red-red and yellow-yellow. That's all on the car side -- the loom wires leading to the 2 connector blocks for the stereo. The wires coming out the back of the Alpine stereo have a couple of connectors inline, which make it easy either to maintain red-red // yellow-yellow OR to swap them over easily. It all works nicely now, remembering its source and track selections. BUT the only annoying part now is that when I park/stop the car, if I want to to continue listening say to the end of song or instrumental, I have to keep the engine running :-( For now, a rough workaround is: -- park and turn off the ignition -- immediately turn the key back one once notch. After a few seconds stereo will wake up and return to where it was. works but Musically this sucks.. I mentioned to garage who were fixing my AC. They advised against configuring no-key-always-on stereo wiring, because they see too many people who forget, thus run down their battery overnight! I am still wondering about this however.. One option I am considering is: -- patch in an illuminated switch next the stereo. -- Then rewire again so NO-KEY is needed. -- At end of journey, or at night especially, finally hit the illuminated switch off before leaving and locking the car. In other words much like the headlights-on beeps at you when you open the door. has anyone tried this ?

It would be great if there were a SOLVED button TAG function for forum threads, where the original question/post has been successfully resolved. And then some search filter to list list those.. ..likewise there appear too often be posts where it is not clear at all if problems were resolved or not. Reading through these can be very enlightening at times, but also a royal pain at others. Makes one you want to shout the screen: Well DID you fix it, and if so HOW? This forum is great and has high signal to noise ratio.Kudos everyone. And of course once the problem has been solved, or forgotten, most people need to get on with their lives, crisis behind them. This phenomemon is widespread as you probably all know. Am sure I am guilty myself of neglecting to return with a final lucid post on others forums. Am wondering about some netiquette. Maybe after some amount of time, an email could be sent auto to original poster, asking: Did You resolve this [insert link here] ~ please let the forum know? That email could include an html link to click on, thereby TAG the thread as either: = SOLVED = ONGOING or = FORGOTTEN/ABANDONNED Idea is not to play nanny state, or nag members in any. Just to find a better way to help generate some sort of plublicly closure where possible any thoughts?

-- how long to dry ? -- Do you have any tips for straightening out the seal, prep before glueing back? Mine is bent //ffuggled in in two places.

right.. I just looked around some french forums for "colle pare-brise" [windscreen adhesive] They advise against regular 'liquid nails' products as they won't last long! Many do recommend SIKAFLEX 11FC+ .. but note it takes some hours / overnight to really set --use tape or better clamps till done. It seems there other specific professional windscreen adhesives. Same chemistry as the Sikflex above, but tweaked to set faster, more expensive, less widely available. clean up solvents if one makes a mess.. -- petrol as solution for glue spills on paintwork -- acetone on windscreen/glass Surprising\\scary to read of many in france using this same glue also to fix AILERONS on the tops and back of their cars! Hate to be on highway at speed behind that - though perhaps we all have. Adhesives are improving so fast these days, but still I'd think a couple bolts would be advised?

yes ok : I patched and switched red/yellow. Now it remembers :-) thanks With ignition key half-turned, the stereo wakes up by itself and plays correctly - if it was already playing before. --- But how to play stereo without any key in? --- Is radio circuit power blocked by design, as some part of central locking / security ?

"windscreen adhesive" ... Brian, thanks for the heads-up. Until today I had not known about this /doh! I found this: http://en.foerch.com/productgroup.aspx?g=41cceb44-297d-48b0-a6ef-e8a0ee7cb8a7 Seems to be all-seasons polyurethane glue+sealant as suggested, but suitable against frost especially. Nice :-) I'm curious about "Highly modular, 'non-conducting' (10-8 Siemens)" what does that mean do you think, and why important?

yikes:::This morning cruising merrily on the Autoroute 110km/hr and strong crosswind, suddenly the rubber trim seal down the driver-side vertical edge of the windscreen came undone ! This is a long single piece of rubber, with an inner soft aluminum [?] channel designed to hold it in place. Runs in a single piece all along the top of roof under the roof rack, then down the edge of windscreen to near the wiper cover. I was able to bend it quickly and puts lots of tape on it, so at least I could return safely. A friendly young mechanic at body shop garage, said these can be crazy expensive to replace, or pay garages, so advised me to do it myself. He said use pliers and screwdriver carefully to: -- take the big kinks out -- tighten the metal channel within the rubber -- then apply a building grade polyurethane adhesive [liquid nails] along metal ridge near the windscreen edge -- carefully fix the rubber profile back onto this glue bead -- tape it back over and wait till it sets.. Before I tackle it, does anyone here have experience of doing this, advice or warnings? thanks

I just installed my Alpine USB-CD-Radio unit from previous car. Lovely to have music again.. but: Questions -- How to have it working without ignition key in and turned? -- How to have it remember which source was selected [tuner/disc/usb/aux] ? -- How to have it remember which track/file was playing ? It was in a VWT4 Transporter. It played anytime, playing its last selection, source or track. At the moment I started the engine, it would cut out, but then return, cueing itself back quickly/correctly. With USB holding so much music, really breaks the mood&flow if the player loss its place each time you stop or start :-( -- Is there something special/funky about the Galaxy wiring loom connecting to the player?? -- Is it some option in the Alpine I need to reset, or maybe both ?? thank you

hello ~ some progress, & some questions.. I was unable to find the fault in the door loom myself. So I handed it over to local garage. Mechanic replaced a section of old wires in loom of the back door. And got the windows working, and car locking, after some initial difficulty. Said the wiring faults were not in the door loom, but in the car body - loom wires between the fusebox and the door socket connector. So now I can control windows up down and lock the car ok :-) BUT 4 problems remain: A: Driver side door switch now works reversed :: up-is-down / down-is-up :-( question: -- is this as simple as switching the wires ? -- if so where best to to do that?? B: If I use the key to lock the car and HOLD the key fully clockwise to close windows, then the driver window OPENS and cannot be closed again, except manually from inside !*# C: I changed the key FOB batteries, and tried reprogramming many times. But I still have no remote control use of it. I notice sometimes, trying to lock the car manually with this key does not succeed. It's confusing... But the other two plain keys will lock/and unlock quickly and reliably all doors. ..seems like the remote locking is half-programmed ~ half-functional. Have to be careful with it. The other day I thought I had locked all, returned a few minutes later to find not so, with driver window half=open. Now I only use the plain keys, until this is fully solved. any ideas ?? thanks

well ~ getting closer today... - my copy of Revue Technique arrived in morning post - local breakers' yard {la casse} just got a similar Galaxy in.. So hoping tomorrow I may have a bunch of better door, loom + switch, and mirror parts to swap in :-) http://www.prixing.fr/images/product_images/53a/53a4e1a2782d4e68808a8ec14cb3d9c6.jpg thanks for all your comments

Should the rear hatch work same as driver or passenger doors ? [1997 Mk1]

sounds sensible.. thanks for spelling this out to me. Based on all the advice here, I feel it is probably door wire loom connection or continuity problem. Until 1hr after I had bought the car on Saturday afternoon, the windows were consistently semi-disfunctional = wind down, but not up, except by turning key outside The seller showed me what to do until I get it all fixed - advising new window switch to remedy it. Soon as I can, I will get install a new switch, especially as I learn now I've damaged switch when I opened it up and scratched its contacts today.

aha! glad I asked... But is ok to scratch / file / emorypaper ordinary crimp connectors ?? Or should I be using an electric toothbrush with your recpmmended break cleaning fluid from now on & forever? btw, what chemistry is this fluid?

hmm sorry, I don't understand what offset on the connection means..?

Yes = this so very helpful.. thank you Today with sunshine to assist, I took the two small clip-on plastic panels off the lower section of the fusebox. Giving me just enough finger access [not quite visual] to push the loom socket back out, and hold it while re-attaching its ring. Removed the foam insulation and speaker - to see better around loom and window mechaism. Fiddled with the loom, poked and peeked around. Next removed the double window switch and the mirror 4-way. took them all apart and cleaned some. After putting it all back together, reconnecting gaitor, I was able to regain former control of Passenger window = progress! And bonus = now am able to remote control both mirrors left/right action, but not yet any up/down control. This had not worked at all before :-) -- passenger window responds to interior DOWN switching, but only closes UP using outside door key held fully clockwise. -- driver side window does not move at all >> tarp over it again tonight -- but I do hear some subtle relay-like clicking sounds, and some louder pulsed whirring noise when I use the key to raise the passenger window. I'm guessing that whirring sound is not the window motor, but is the locking servo ? Meanwhile, as per advice, I check rear door upper right gaitor. I see someone had taken a big bite out of it. Some wires right there look very cleanly CUT, else a connection has completely come apart ? I took some photos today, will try to organize &upload later. My object is fix this and I hope finally document a little further for others. Is there any MAP of the door loom and its various connectors -- like a photograph with colored photoshop overlay for wires+connectors?? If not would be great if we can create one to add to the faq. You are likely right that an old loom may not be any better than just fixing the existing. What I still do not understand is the process to determine which wires in teh loom and at the gaitor are good/bad? Should one disconnect and then take the whole loom out the door? Or does one just patiently match a multimeter to the connector ends of each wire following its color-stripes? Also gloppy old black fabric tape around wires in mine -- is that normal, or traces of some previous repair attempt? Is there any spray or solution to use on these connectors or in and around micro-switches to remove corrosion/improve the electrical contact? Today I just scratch a little with fine screwdriver. best-practice anyone? thanks ~Jason

Thanks for the welcome... The rear hatch lock on mine only locks itself... I suspect not working fully, as it should ? But your suggestion prompted me to try again passenger side lock outside >> and its window closed fully Yay~phew! Now, how to get the driver side loom reconnected asap, or at least to get the window closed UP again, so I drive around in this endless rain ? :-( Yes the switches need replacing [seller warned me]. The wiring between the door and car = "GAITOR" ? pretty sure also needs replacing. From my reading here, I am still not clear how one finds out if the wires are broken/shorting. Looks like it might be easier & better to take it all door electrics out and replace with new.. And the crucial connected socket for the door harness is pain to get at it or get hold of. Right now try to put the door harness back into its socket is impossible, as there is nothing holding the socket. I have the retaining ring, described+shown in posts/faq, but how the devil do you pull the wiring socket back out AND hold it in place while fixing the retaining ring back on it? Maybe it is better to just take the whole door off ???

Hello, I just bought 1997 1.9td Galaxy today. Love the car - comfy and nice to drive, but several electric issues to fix .. QUESTIONS.. Q 1: When the connector socket on the car body is slipping inside, HOW do you get access to hold it while putting the securing ring back on? It looks like one might be able to get at it from somewhere behind the inside fusebox, but I do not want to make things even worse. Q 2: Am I likely to find a full door electrics 2nd hand, or is there a new replacement for such? The driver side door panel has been attacked by a frustrated hasty monkey .. drywall screws, pieces cut off etc. and inside lots of old stickey black fabric tape over parts of the wiring. I ordered repair manuals last night from amazon in english [Haynes], also its french cousin [Revue Technique] so hopefully I'll be able to help myself as well as find the right vocabulary to use here in France where I am. Q 3: Is there any simple/expedient way I can at least get all the windows closed untiI I fix this all properly? Rain is forecast for all next week here. THE SITUATION 1. As sold to me, the windows went down ok using driver or passenger door switch controls. But to make them go back up again, must stop, get out and turn the key lock fully clockwise. The passenger window would close ok then driver. I was shown this behavior half a dozen times by seller - started searching on-line for advice. I bought the car anyway (it was cheap), went for country drive, filled her up, But immediately restarting then I could not get the driver window to go back up. Passenger window still responding :excl: 2. After reading forum posts here on door wiring loom problems -- windows and locking strangeness, I printed out : Checking Wires From Door To Pillar FAQ with photos, http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/8401-checking-wires-from-door-to-pillar/&do=findComment&comment=64104 << Thank you! Managed to carefully take the driver side connector out of b-pillar socket. Put it back gently. No change in function. Tried again. same. 3rd time however, I could not get it back in the connector on b-pillar, as socket was now loose and receeding. arggh! 3. So I now do no have any locking or windows working - as it is not connected. Sudden rain storm arrived. Thew a tarp over the car [front windows stuck open/down] cam inside to read up some more and ask for help here. So Glad to find this forum. My previous vehicle was 1995 VWTransporter. Great in many ways, but it also had tricky electrical trouble initially. VWT4 Uk forum was brilliantly helpful. Thank you for any advice, Jason