brawlski

does anybody know what the part number for this hose/pipe is? i want to try and source it elsewhere

just been told that i have a leak from the driver side power steering hose (caused by corrosion at the pressure switch location.) been quoted

i have been suffering from similar issue and after trying lots of things but i have a drain of 200mA and as far as i can tell there is no obvious reason for the drain, everything checks out? ford had fitted a non stadard lead acid battery during one of the services cause i complained about starting issues, this battery was rubbish! so i bought the biggest silver Ca battery i could find varta Type 019 Varta Silver Dynamic , it's massive 100Ah and only just fits the battery tray (it does fit). you need a silver Ca battery.

i have had the main fuse box problem, the thing was all melted at the alternator fuse, i had the whole uint and cables replaced, it's doesn't show any signs that it is happening again? at teh time the alternator was "checked" and i was told it was working a treat ie.e. pumping out 14+ volts. where on the tailgate should i look? also i have read through more and more threads on the site and people are saying that 200mA is a normal drain on the galaxy...is that right? if so then i don't have a problem. i could just buy a big silver battery (Varta 600 402 083 3162. 100AH) and then it wouldn't drain so quickly. the car only get very short trips 5-10 mins 2 to 3 times a day

0.4 Amp, works out to approx 5 Watt, i.e. glove box light, vanity lighting etc, front door lighting etc. may be one of switches are stuck on. 0.4 Amp is too much as your battery would go flat in a week (approx 185 hours) assuming you've got a 75Amp/hr battery. Also just another thought, has the car got a third party radio fitted? Regards Mike it seems as though all the internal light go out, but surely if i pulled the fuse then the drain would disapear? i do have a 3rd party stereo fitted but it's plugged into the existing loom via a iso connector block and again surely the pulling of the fuse would identify that, incidentally the radio memory etc was lost when i pulled the fuse so it definately had the power cut.

yeah checked that (wife asked that one!!) i am going to check again (drain) after longer switch off period just to be sure the ECU is shut down etc. i also have a digital meter for conparison will update as and when ok rechecked it after a bit and the drain settled at 0.2 Amp, confirmed with a digital multimeter, again i tried disconeccting thing that might be the cause but couldn't find anything, i have fitted HID's (these were fitted on my previous gal with no problems and i have fitted another set on my over car agin no probs) i have also fitted a tow bar but for the electrics i use one of these kits that plugs straight into the rear light loom so no wire cutting. also a new stereo. all these changes have been in the car for a good while and don't seem to cause any problems. as i said pulling fuses doesn't change the drain value so i don't thing any of these changes can be the cuase i.e there would have shown up when pulling the fuses? can someone please tell me if i buy a new CA battery and i get a bigger one say 100AH (assuming it will fit) will be charged by the alt?

yeah checked that (wife asked that one!!) i am going to check again (drain) after longer switch off period just to be sure the ECU is shut down etc. i also have a digital meter for conparison will update as and when

i used one of those gunson automotive meters to measure the drain. it said to disconnect the +ve and put the meter in series that way? i hadn't realise dthe ecu took some time to power down, i just moved the car onto the drive way and went for it!! been pouring over all the battery threads and it seems the battery is as big a problem i have a replacement battery which i know see is a not a CA type battery!!

should have mentioned its a 2004 2.3 ghia

I have got a battery drain issue that i can't get to the bottom of. measuring the drain current i get .4 amps ie.e too much. taking out the fuses and the replacing them one by one doesn't identify a circuit that is the problem? does this mean the drain is some circuit outwith the fuse box? (i have also tried the 3 fuses in the aux battery fuse box under the bonnet. what else can it be? something else i noticed was that the coolant run on pump continued to run even when i disconected the battery???? does it have a capacitor discharging to keep it going? it did eventually stop. i also have a flashing CC panel, had it for a while, but i don't thing is is related as pulling the fuse shold have identifed it stuck :wacko:

Put the car into the dealers in the morning, they called in the afternoon to say they had found an oil leak and replaced the oil filter!!!! i told them that it was note and eninge oil leak and i even told them the exact loaction of the leak. so i asked to speak to the forman. i told him the leak i was worried about was from the AC he said that they couldn't find anything? i decide i would go and show them. 20 mins later i turned up, got the to put it back up on the ramp and then pointed the dripping oil at the loaction in front of the O/S wheel. they then took of the under covers and the leak could cleary be seen from the A/C pipe at the pipe clip position i said it was. they were still dubious about it leaking because they said they had checked the A/C pressure and it was ok. they decided to do a dye pen test of it and low and behold they was a leak! upshot is that they are replacing the A/C pipe under waranty. is there anything i should be wary of with them doing this? i.e. can they F*ck up something else replacing that pipe?

Snap, mine goes into the dealers tomorrow for exactly the same thing. i came out and found an oily mark at that position on the driveway. i think it is an AC leak. the oil is from the oil in the refridgerant, as you say it is clear in colour so it's not hydraulic fuild nor is it engine oil. my drip seems to be coming from the "P" clip holding the High pressure AC pipe just below the pressure switch. i think the clip might have fretted on the pipe?

I have just had the same problem!, took it to the dealers and got them to change the power hold relay, two weeks later it happened again! turns out the silver-calcium battery was gubbed and wasn't storing more than 1 crank of the engine. so if i stopped the car but left the lights on a second before switching off then the battery wouldn't turn the engine and the clicking and flashing of the dash lights occured. changed the battery and it all went away. the new battery is not a silver calcium one! they are no good if they ever run flat!

2.3 ghia auto 54 plate, a month of hell! had the power hold realy replace becaus eof the intermitant starting problems associated with relays. then when i got it back the Climate control panel was flashing (frauds to blam) they took it back and took the dash out to fix it! anway 3 weeks later the thing fails to start again!! same flash and clicking as before the relay was changed! this time though the breakdown guy tells me the battery is knackered! anyway i get it to frauds and they say " you battery is knackered" oh yeah! they say they need to replace it to check the car! go figure i have to agree to them fitting a new battery, they fit it and then check the car and surprise surprise it's fine! but!!!!!! they relace the silver calcium battery that i had with a basic 60ah motorcraft job which i assume is a basic lead-acid!!!! is this right i though the charging system on the gal would kill lead -acids? i queried this with the head tech. and he said that their TIS system says to you can fit the lead-acid as an alternative? is this true? the battery that i had was a 50 Ah 500 CCa (silver Calcium) this seems small now that i have been looking into things? this battery business is a minefield. does this car need a silver calcium batttery fitted or will a lead acid one meet with the manufacturers approval? do ford have a technical helpline that you can call?

can you give me the dealers details?

the DEFA one looks good the instruction seem better than the calix, they dont seem to have a stockist over here. i have toyed with the idea of these things for a long time. up here is Scotland it can be very handy! i already have a heater inside the car that comes on and defrosts the cabin but th eengine pre-warmer would be nic. i always thought they had to be fittted into the block? anyone no of any stockist in the uk?

i have been having some troubles with the climate control panel flashing, (covered in another topic) anyways frauds "fixed it" but i am still unhappy with the level of A/C i measured the temp at the centre outlet at 8deg c with an outside air temp of 11C, this is outsid ethe chart that has been publish on the site before. anyway i am going to get a guy (A/C specialist) to re-gass (if he thinks it needs it) but i am worried that re-gassing / servicing would set the CC panel flashing again? will it? cheers

yes, if i press auto it go to the default 22C

Right , finally got the GAL back! the dash is in! all looks well, a few minor bits n pieces need attention the radio is an aftermarket and i had an ipod hook up which wasn't reconected etc. they said that they check the AC and it didn't need regassed! how do i check? what is a test for the CC. if i put it to the lowest setting before the "LO" shows it says 18, how cold should the air be? are there any other checks i can do (i havent got my VAG-COM cable yet) cheers for everybody help through this traumatic time!!!!

great pic! but how the heck does it all go back the way it came out?

MAD! i am boiling ! i called the dealer today (Friday) at 4:30 to check on the progress, the value was supposed to be arriving from frod in the morning and the dash would be put back by th eend of play! they told me the part didn't arrive! of course leaving it untill late on a friday wasn't a nice start to the weekend! i blow my top! they offered me a car....a fiesata!!!! i said why do you think i drive a galaxy! will 3 child seats in it! anyway the part will now be there on monday!!! i will phone an check first thing or maybe every hour! question for someone.... if i am having the "diverter/flapper" valve replaced should the system be regassed as a matter of course during the rebuild? or would changing that part not effect the sealed systemed? i want them to make sure it would require any matainance for a long time!

i have order a VAG-COM from ebay! which is the best TIS or diag info disc to get?

Just had an update from the dealers. they have stripped out the dashboard and the problem is the A/C flap value (not sure of actual name) they have ordered a new one and it will be rebuilt tomorrow. i have aske dthat i get a copy of the vag-com print out for the car after the repair is complete. i want to see that there are no other faults showing! what indicators should i look for or ask about. ie. if i talk like i know exactly what they have done then i am likely not to be BS'ed so far the dealer has been very very helpful, yes this is being done under warranty but at the end of the day all i want is the GAL back in A1 condition. i have order a VAG-COM from ebay and i will keep an eye on htings myself from now on! which is the best TIS or diag info disc to get?

I have been searching the forum and the dashboard out sceneario seem to be one to avoid! even though i wont be doing this job what further problem could i expect from a full dash out so that the frauds can get to the CC unit. will the dash squeek and rattle for ever more? plus the electronics that will be moved about during the operation worry me! can i ask for a VAG-COM print-out after the job to show me that everything is faultless? can the VAG-COM diag be faked. i.e could they cover up any new problems? i think i am becoming paraniod! but i am finding it hard to give them the benefit of the doubt since they have already messed up the CC by changing the power hold relay.

i am a bit worried that these "cheap" cables offer no electronic protection for the cars systems? or is that just roos-tech trying to scare you into an expensive cable purchase?