biturbo.s4

Hi alan! Pulled out injectors and swapped them round to see if it was a faulty one. And nope, still showing cylinder one misfire detected. Cam lobes all look fine, normal wear and tear for 210k miles, and highly doubt that injector loom is the cause of a street full of white smoke for ten minutes!! Compression test will be the best bet, but dont have a diesel tester :)

Seatkid +1!! Loom looks ok, but should probably be first port of call. Although my thoughts are low compression not combusting the fuel properly. Engine does not use any water, but cant really rule out headgasket. Compression test would be ideal. Glow plug connector housing is snapped and upon whipping the plugs out, cylinder one looked very clean, where as the others looked heat worn (if that makes sense?) ;)

Sorted! Anyone fancya laugh? Wrong vagcom cable!! Itried my friends blue kkl cable and downloaded vcds lite and it scanned the ecu and all modules no problem! Although saying that at the same time it has a new battery on it, and i cleaned the earth points around the battery tray. I havent actually tried my old cable since getting this one to work! Anyway, quite happy now. And only two returning fault codes - 17569-manifold temp sensor (g72):open or short to plus p116135-00 16685-cylinder one misfire detected P0301 35-00 Also getting manifold pressure sensor but thats because its unplugged. Any ideas as to why the misfire, and i take it cylinder one is cambelt end?

Will try another cable... and then start checking the loom. Like i said pulling on loom behind abs controller made the aux water pump start coming on slowly... pulling on it more made it spin full speed, so maybe its around there?

Ok. Thanks for your help. Have tried connecting with engine running and get same problem. And battery voltage shows 13.9 i think.

Errr battery is a bit duff... surely its not that? It starts off the battery no probs.

Oh and neither does my elm237 bluetooth adaptor and android torque app connect.

Maybe, will try an older cable tomorrow and vcds lite. Although my cable works fine on my B5 S4 and my mates mk4 golf, neither of which are Can.

Ive no idea now! Loom checking time I think, although maybe an engine sensor is causing ecu to short? I noticed earlier that while playing with the loom behind abs pump the aux water pump started whirring a bit, and after tugging the loom a bit more it came to life. Think ill start there :46:

Righteo. Still naff all. Immobiliser box made no difference. And Full set of matched clocks, key, immo box and ecu didn't work either. I cant access ecu (no response from controller) and can only access other modules if ECU is unplugged. Still getting k1 open or short to ground on the test under options, every other time I test. Definitely stumped now! :46: And re the immobiliser box. It is a 6X box with a 7M sticker stuck over the top of it. Mine is obviously missing the sticker.

Not including programming - only cutting!

They are 160quid from vw for a new key!

Cant we all get along nicely? Lol :) Back on topicd(:P) do you reckon that could be the one?

Have just checked. With everything plugged in LED lights for two seconds after ignition is turned on. And flashes constantly when doors are locked. However if I unplug the IMMO box the light doesnt show when ignition is turned on, but flashes all the same with doors locked. And the Sharan does use Can wires to transfer messages, cut your loom open and check, or even easier check wiring diagrams. But you are right, it doesn't have CANBUS wires plugged into the diagnostic port like more modern vehicles. Anyway, more to the point, what do you reckon to this?? I think we may have solved it?? Please read this: http://www.forum.fordmpv.com/smf2/technical/diagnostic-woes!-2001-sharan-pd115/15/ Thanks, I appreciate your help, Tony.

Will have a go with an earlier version of vagcom and report back. All wires in door gaitors are intact, I have checked these. From reading wiring diagrams it shows that the K-Line doesn't run direct to ECU, It runs through the immobiliser box, However it runs to clocks, and then from the clocks Can wires run to ecu. Although when i test vagcom it says CAN not ready?!? Where is the rubber grommet to the immobiliser lamp? Do these cars come with an immobiliser key led in the instrument cluster? Mine doesnt?

If i buy a matched clock, ecu, immo box and key, will it be plug and play without any coding?

What do i do now? I cant give up?!

The Sharan should easily double the S4's mpg! Although can get 28-30mpg on a long run with a light right foot at no more than 70mph. But then who buys a biturbo to drive it like that all the time lol Bodywork isn't so bad after a quick wash. But a good Snow foam/Clay/Polish will see it looking quite presentable after the interesting features(lol) are sorted out. It also came with a horrible sand coloured interior that is now more of a burnt toast colour! Why on earth do manufacturers make light coloured interiors, I really dont know!! But on the upside my friend has two alhambras he is breaking, one mk1, one mk2 tdi sport, with the snazzy black/grey sport seats, and dark coloured trims which I will no doubt get at a decent price :) Back on topic a bit - If you could get voltages that would be great!! But sort of feel Ive come to the end of the road with regards to what to do next. Mirez on the other forum is trying to help, and im sort of relying on his knowledge now as mine has all but run out! He mentioned the Immo box might have wrong soft coding? It looks to have been replaced at some point (or at least tampered with) as one of the security torx bolts that holds the box in place has been replaced with a Phillips head bolt. Ive also ordered a vagtacho cable so can recode the new key i have when it is working, although I think this can be done through the instruments which I can access. Oh and can recode an ECU too if need be! I feel a bit like this at the mo - :) I think thats the closest smiley to summing me up. Irritated? lol

I dont know, I really dont know! :) Just waiting for another chap to reply on 'the other forum' I'd of thought unless yours was a PD-TDI then the ECU pin outs, voltages etc will all be different, but really do appreciate the offer, and your help. Im lucky this isn't my only vehicle. I bought this as a cheap runaround to get the kids in, and to double the 17mpg I get in the S4! If I'd have known it I would have have thought about paying more and buying a DECENT one! lol I just had visions of the kids eating sweets and crap in the back and me not having to worry about the mess, unlike in the S4. Also slamming it in any tiny car parking space and not caring if I accumulate any more parking dents. I will stick with it though, and not let it beat me! :)

Ahh silly me, yours must be a mk1 then?? I'd have to look at wiring diagrams and get back to you. :)

Have found out the powertrain issues are due to the ECU being disconnected, so some consolation there. Have tested voltages all over, with ECU Connected and not, and this is the result: OBD port pin 7 - 10.27v Ign on - 1.9v Ign off. ECU connected pin 16 - 11.03v Ign on - 0.26v Ign off. ECU disconnected pin 16 - 10.94v Ign on - 0.41v Ign off. Vagcom connecting but ECU disconnected - At Pin 16 - Fluctuating between 10.7v and 0.73v before vagcom comes up no response. Vagcom connecting ECU connected - At Pin 16 - Fluctuating between 9.6v and 0.73v before vagcom comes up no response. Then goes from 9.6v back upto 11.3v when interface unplugged from OBD port. Have no idea where to go from here, so decided to whip EGR off for now, and will order some blanks to bypass it! :)

Please just put my mind at rest - Whip the tape off the loom below the passenger side belt pretensioner and pull back the tape over the two crimps, cut them back and then join them together. It should be two lots of red/white wires connected together with one little poxy 0.5 red/white.

Sounds like a bad earth. Although still worth whipping the tape off the loom and recrimping the terminal.

Four or five screws, pull door seal up and out of the way, and see if rear window, washer hose is connected properly. Also check under soundproofing see if it is damp. Then pull wires up below belt pretensioner, cut off the outer tape, and find the splice of red/white wires. Should be two lots of 5-8 wires crimped together and joined with one small red/white wire. Worth a pop no?

Exhausts are normally easier as a two man job! One man either side of the joint, and pushing pulling twisting etc. A bit of Plusgas or Wd40 normally helps too. And regarding the steering wheel airbag, mine has thrown up the exact same code! Will be looking into it when other electrical problems are sorted. ;)