burundi

Same here. Don't click the link in the PM it is an infected web site. This has been quite common on various forums as of late.

I'm after the following to get mine in as good a shape as possible: Plastic seat mount surrounds, know the plastic surround that screws to the seat fixing in the floor? I'm after as many good undamaged ones as you have so long as they are in blue. Window switch, if you have a broken one I'll take it, I just need one of the small metal contacts from inside, so long as the switch clicks I can use it Heating controls surround, mine has a piece broken off, if you have the standard three dials just above where the stereo goes and the surround is undamaged I could do with it, it's a bugger to get off though, that's how mine ended up damaged, I should have just left the blown bulb alone <_<. Cover for the stowage are in the back on the offside, where the jack is kept, mine has a broken pin on it so doesn't sit flush, if yours has all its pins is unscuffed and the plastic vent is undamaged I could be interested, needs to be dark blue though. ;) Cheers Burundi

I've had my Sharan two years this month and today, for the very first time, I realised that it has a variable timed intermittent front wiper. Switch front wiper to intermittent. give a few seconds Switch it off again wait 4 seconds switch it on and you now have an intermittent wipe of 4 seconds. whatever the pause between switching it off and on again will be the time between intermittent wipes. I presume there is a maximum and minimum amount of time for the intermittent wipe but I was in a queue of traffic and couldn't play too much. Do other cars do this as this is the first time I have seen this feature on anything.

Potentially a timing issue, when was the timing last checked? Has it had a new timing belt recently? How many miles has it got on it?

Thanks chaps. That diagram would have been very helpful madbaz, unfortunately I only saw your post after my mate did the job. He spliced into the wires down near the drivers door pillar and it all works fine now. The Cobra alarm I bought (Cobra AK3193) does not need any additional modules, it connects directly to the wiring loom and happily locks and unlocks the doors upon arm/disarm. It doesn't close the windows automatically. I had to replace a door motor at very short notice to get the bus properly secure.

Hi Phillip, I have used SVO from the supermarket in my 90bhp TDI without issue, never more than a 50/50 mix though, i've not had any issues with filters etc but I don't run a 50/50 mix all the time. i had lots of timing issues recently so I stopped running SVO to rule it out and haven't got back into using it again. The issues were not related to the use of SVO and have since been resolved. Also, I only use it when the ambient temp is normally above 10 degrees celcius to ensure the SVO doesn't get too viscous. Ta Burundi

From what I can tell in the Cobra fitting manual you can connect the alarm (Cobra AK3193) directly to the central locking system without the need for any other components. Has anyone done this and can confirm this is the case. It is a 97 VW Sharan with full central locking (currently locks/unlocks on key only, no remote keyfob and no infrared sensor built in). TIA Burundi.

Thanks for all the replies, next time I am at my mates garage I am going to get it on a ramp and have a look at the hoses and check for any bulges or leaks.

Hanks problem and your problem both sound identical to what happened to me recently: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...mp;#entry104086 The bottom crank shaft pulley keyway had worn down allowing the pulley to rotate on the crankshaft and screwing the timing, a casual visual inspection of any previous timing marks doesn't indicate an issue as the belt and pulley will still line up perfectly. Resetting the timing will fix the issue for a while, if the bolt on the pulley is sufficiently tight it may solve the issue for a while. For me it solved it for about 3 days. Ideally the pulley needs to be replaced and timing reset. If the timing is reset properly, i.e: the hard way, and your issue is solved then get the pulley replaced. If the timing is reset properly but you still have issues then it may be something else. It is certainly cheaper than replacing the fuel pump to see if that is faulty.

Cheers :16:

I had my front disks and pads changed about 2000 miles ago, they felt spongy and odd at first but I am not sure if they have improved that much. One oddity is that when I pump the brake pedal until it gets hard and then keep my foot gently on the pedal the pressure slowly goes out of the brake system. Is this normal for a MK1 90bhp tdi or could I have a faulty seal somewhere? A friend has suggested this may be normal behaviour on some vehicles but he isn't familiar with the Sharan. TIA B.

I might give that a try, I wasn't sure if the motors were door specific or a generic item. I presume the locking mechanism is specific to the particular door location. If it is a knackered central locking motor unit has anyone got a part number or the mark of mondeo I could get one from? Cheers Burundi.

Did you find your answer Tom, mine is doing the same thing on the nearside rear passenger door, lock and unlocks then locks and unlocks again. Was it a latch spring? Mine locks ok if I open and close the affected door and then lock the car again without doing an unlock first. It is consistent, not erratic.

Glad you got it sorted :) and my own expensive learning experience has been of some use :rolleyes:

Yep, that's what the bloke at the diesel specialists said. My mate checked the timing by looking at his marks from when he last changed the belt and they were still spot on. He wasn't aware of the pulley issue though so presumed my issue wasn't timing related. My battery had died btw, it's now got a brand new battery on and all working again \o/

Mine was doing that before it gave up totally. When you say you checked the timing did you compare previous timing marks between pulley and belt or was it done the much harder but proper way? My timing marks were still bang on because the pulley itself was moving. Hope you get it sorted soon. Mine decided to drain its battery last night, could be the battery going faulty or a drain somewhere, I just want a car that works for more than a month at a time dammit! /me holds head in hands and sobs gently

Link to the pictures doesn't seem to work anymore, anyone got them stashed somewhere?

Warped disks usually result from periods of heavy braking followed by keeping your foot on the brake pedal, the heat warps the disks and can happen quite quickly I have been told. Mine did the same, I had the front disks changed and it cured the problem.

I had exactly the same dodge, turned out to be the keyway on the bottom pulley had been eroded by the crankshaft allowing the pulley to move and screw the timing. New pulley sorted it. Mine is a high mileage 90bhp tdi as well. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=12656

Thanks Dave, wish I had spoken to you earlier, my problem did re-occur again just 5 days later, I took it back to FIS in Burscough and they checked the bottom pulley that's connected to the crankshaft and sure enough the crank had worn away the keyway on the pulley (my bus has 180,000 miles on it so not an unexpected failure really). They replaced the pulley and reset the timing again and it has been fine for the last three weeks. My mate initially couldn't understand why the timing had gone out when his timing marks where still perfectly matched up, this explains it. Apparently this is a common issue on higher mileage diesels of this type.

ok, to recap, TDI was suddenly starting badly, this went to very badly and then to running badly as well as starting badly and then to not running very well at all & not revving. Plumes of white smoke were coming out of the back when trying to start and when it was ticking over lumpily. We firstly sent the fuel pump away to Fuel injection Services Ltd in Burscough in Lancashire. They found an issue with the stop solenoid which was apparently leaking, this may have been sucking air in and causing the starting problems. My mechanic put the pump back on but it still wouldn't start or run properly. So we sent the entire vehicle to Burscough and they found the main crank timing out by 1 tooth so they reset the timing, reset the fuel pump timing and tuned it all up. They said they think the fuel pump was the original cause of the starting problems, we are not sure how the main timing belt got out by a tooth or why it was ok for so long after the belt was last changed and suddenly started going, perhaps the ECU was trying to hard to compensate for the pump timing or perhaps it was just coincdental and it was the pump timing that badly needed resetting and not the main crank timing. Anyhow, the bus now starts perfectly and runs sweet as a nut \o/ I would recommend FIS Ltd, quick turnaround! Hope this helps someone. Cheers Burundi

ok, to recap my problem, TDI was suddenly starting badly, this went to very badly and then to running badly as well as starting badly and then to not running very well at all & not revving. Plumes of white smoke were coming out of the back when trying to start and when it was ticking over lumpily. We firstly sent the fuel pump away to Fuel injection Services Ltd in Burscough in Lancashire. They found an issue with the stop solenoid which was apparently leaking, this may have been sucking air in and causing the starting problems. My mechanic put the pump back on but it still wouldn't start or run properly. So we sent the entire vehicle to Burscough and they found the main crank timing out by 1 tooth so they reset the timing, reset the fuel pump timing and tuned it all up. They said they think the fuel pump was the original cause of the starting problems, we are not sure how the main timing belt got out by a tooth or why it was ok for so long after the belt was last changed and suddenly started going, perhaps the ECU was trying to hard to compensate for the pump timing or perhaps it was just coincdental and it was the pump timing that badly needed resetting and not the main crank timing. Anyhow, the bus now starts perfectly and runs sweet as a nut \o/ I would recommend FIS Ltd, quick turnaround! Hope this helps someone. Cheers Burundi

Whilst an insurer will look for a reason not to pay they should only be able to refuse to pay out on a claim if the cause of the accident/claim is attributed to someone you haven't told them previously. In this case it sounds like the non-standard alloys/tyres are considered a factor in the accident and since they weren't told about them they are refusing to payout. Tenuous though, he should see a solicitor to see if he can fight their decision.

Tried it with jump leads on from the wifes car. Unplugged the resistor I had put in and re-connected back to the engines coolant sensor, vag-com reported coolant temp at about 9 degrees, glowplugs came on for a few seconds, heated them a couple of times before trying to turn it it over. The damn thing didn't want to start at all, I gave up after nearly choking myself on unburnt fuel. I think the battery that is on is fine, back to drawing board on this. :D