ridway

This is straight off the TIS disk, Hope it helps. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Air Conditioning The air conditioning system is controlled by an thermostatic expansion valve. R134a refrigerant is used. There are three different variants available: Front air conditioning system with manual temperature control Front air conditioning system with automatic temperature control (Climatronic) Front and rear air conditioning system with automatic temperature control (Climatronic) Depending on the engine variant, two different air conditioning compressors are used: Constant-displacement Ford FS10 compressor for the 2.0L DOHC and 2.3L DOHC engines Variable-displacement Sanden compressor for the 1.9L TDI diesel engines and the 2.8L VR6 engine In order to prevent icing up of the evaporator core, all vehicles except vehicles with 2.8L or 1.9L Diesel engine with automatic temperature control (ATC) are equipped with an de-icing switch on the evaporator core. This switch measures the surface temperature of the evaporator cooling fins using a thermo switch. If the measured temperature drops below about +1

Definatley, the bang, bump, knock- call it what you may is down to fuel sloshing in the tank. I get this condition and it is always at its loudest when the tank is two third to three quarts full. It also happens to a greater extent when pointing steeply down hill. I do experience a brief wiff of fuel as well just after alighting from the gal after hearing this noise. Rich

Just changed near side H/L bulb. Yes, I, started when it was going dark. Yes, I didn't read the TIS or manual. The job is an absolute pig. Take heed of the above advice. Rich

You could try measuring the system voltage, although if this is high I would have thought you would have had problems with other bulbs as well. With the engine off you should have no more than 12.8 volts dc after a couple of mins from switching off the engine. When running the voltage should never really exceed 15 volt dc. I suppose you could have an intermitent fault with the alternator regulator, it could be surging to a high voltage ocassionally. If this is the case it needs further investigation as this could damage other components. Do you notice any fluctuation in headlight intensity when cruising? Rich

I know which way I always sit when travelling on a train. I too took experience from my military days, rear facing seats on aircraft (you felt so much more secure, especially when landing) and I think I know which way I'd rather face in a head on collision as a passenger in a Gal. The question it has raised for me however is the design of the seat anchors and recline mechanism. When reversed I suspect they may not be capable of remaining fixed to the ground during a collision. This could be Ford's reasoning for not using them in this configuration. Can you imagine a passenger or several passengers and their seats travelling forward at 50 mph in a head on, doesn't bear thinking about. Those sharp anchor clamps make me cring when you slam down the seats to lock them in position. Think of those clonking you on the back of the head attached to a 100 kg mass at 2 mph would be fatal :) :) Rich

Regarding SP2. i'm not a happy chappy. I have a small network which refuses to work with SP2 whatever I try. XP's restore has come in very useful the last few days The Gals running fine however, have a good Christmas everyone. Rich

I lost the code after swopping the battery to get the wife's car started. Phoned the dealer to tell him the prob and he asked for the model, year etc and telephoned me back half hour later with the code - very nice chap- thank you Rich

When and if you get a new battery, do a check to see what current is leaving it, in its quiescent state. That is with everything switched off. Radio off, doors closed etc. There should not be more than a few microamps flowing away from the battery to power the ECU memory, alarm immobiliser etc.. Be sure to connect the ammeter in series and NOT across the pos and neg terminals!!! . Don't forget that batteries produce an explosive gas combination of hydrogen and oxygen so be aware of sparks when connecting and disconnecting. If the meter is reading anything greater than say 10 milliamp (0.01A), probably less I would start looking deeper into whether there is a fault. If the gal is drawing current when your absolutley sure everything is switched off it is more than likely you will have another knacked battery in a year or so. Especially if the car is stood for long spells. The best check is by comparison. I was going to get a figure for you but then realised yours is diesel and mine is petrol so they will differ anyway. With winter approaching this info from variants could be quite useful in finding faults with charging systems and batteries info. As an aside having a knacked glow plug will take its toll out of a battery. Does your gal start well after the glow light extinguishes? It should fire in less than a second if working well; even in cold weather. A problem with aglow plug or plugs, combined with short runs in winter will soon see off a good battery espescially as the winter approaches. Maybe willing members could post quiescent battery drain currents next time they feel the need to disconnect the battery. I'll certainly post mine, as an addendum to this thread, for the 2.3 ghia petrol when I service and change the oil at the weekend. Rich

I think so, if the air is icy cold. I've experienced your symptoms myself last year in Scotland during the record hot spell. We'd been driving for hours in the hot weather and noticed the ocassional fountain of mist for a few seconds coming from the vents either side of the clock. You're right , it is quite alarming the first time you see it. I also recall seeing it happen in an old Peugeot 405 I once had. Rich

Under certain conditions it is possible that you will get the occassional blast of mist from the vents as the CC cycles - usually in hot damp conditions. Are you sure the climate control is off or you have the fan speed set very low? It is a similar effect as to your warm breath meeting cold air in winter, only in reverse. This is not an indication of a fault (so long as it is mist and not smoke) but more a sign of a good working system. So you're entitled to feel smug that you are one of the privileged to have a working system considering the Galaxy's reputation :lol: Rich

The thermostat housing on my petrol gal is metal (brass I think). It is held in position by three water hoses in a "T" configuration. My problem is that it appears to leak past the spring hose clamps. The leak rate is slow so doesn't cause any great problems but the antifreeze (pink type) just makes a mess in the engine nacelle and leaves pink crystalisation around the joints. I've tried everything to stop it including removing and cleaning and even fitting good quality jubilee clips but nothing seems to work. Has anyone else had this problem? If so how was it cured? I don't know if the diesel has the same set up so this may just be a question for petrol (2.3) owners. There seems to be evidence of pink crystals around all the other joints where rubber hoses are clamped onto metal; heater hoses etc.. I don't have any over temperature problems, the guage always rises to a rock steady centre position so I don't think the pressure is too high. Rich

I found this site very good for responses for secondhand parts. You may get a good response as Gal gearboxes are generally reliable. Should be a few around. Rich

You've terrified me, similar mileage, and MOT imminent. So much so I've taken a print of your post and give it to my next door neighbour. He's Workshop manager at the local ford dealer. I know you have little faith in the franchise brigade, but maybe the back door approach may bring some suggestions. He says theres plenty of info in your post and he will let me know tommorrow when he's had a chat with the man who operates the diagnostic jobby. He seems to have some confidence in him; he says that he is one of the old school who can relate modern techniques to old methods; fingers crossed. Rich

Can anyone suggest a cure to this one? The bulb failure warning stayed on over the weekend after driving off (and using the footbrake) suggesting another bulb had failed. Sure enough the nearside taillamp was out. Bulb replaced, satisfactory. All appeared well until reverse was selected. I then got the dredded constant tone, nothing in the proximity zone. Out of curiosity, after trying all the usual bending of the tow ball plug bracket, cleaning the sensors, evicting the spiders etc. I tried putting the old duff bulb back in the sidelight socket. The parking sensors then worked fine. Curiosity deepening I tried it with the bulb removed, the fault returned, constant tone. Tried another new bulb, same problem. I have had a really good look at all the surronding wiring, bulb holders and connections but all looks fine. Everything at the back works fine. No strange symptoms or dimming of lights when the brake light or indicator light is pressed or switched on. Wiper, window heater and even the towball socket all work fine. I have checked tailgate wiring as well, the bit that breaks, all is fine. The sensors worked fine when the bulb was ok last week and the car has'nt been out or even stood in the recent rain. I dont know if this is relevant but the day before I got a low coolant warning and a STOP command. I did stop and the coolant was low, not excessively. It took half a kettle full. There are no leaks and it must be the first time I've put some in since last summer. The added water cancelled the warning sucessfully, no problems since. I'm sure this is a coincidence, but someone may know different Help! I'm lost for an answer. Rich

Well well, I suppose you're happier in the knowledge that it now works ok and you're less likley to get shunted in the back end. Intresting outcome though. Rich

Im a 2.3 owner yearning for a V6. A 2.8 V6 turbodiesel would be an interesting variant dont you think? Rich.

My daughter once knocked the gear stick into neutral when sat in the centre second row. Quite a frightening experience if on cruise control because as the speed drops off the engine throttle is opened to compensate because nothings told Mr cruise to kick out. The revs go straight up to the rev limiter. Took a few seconds to work out what was happening. Thank goodness for the limiter (and tie wraps for the six year olds legs). I thought this was a good reason for switching the cruise control off. Rich

I agree wholeheartedly that mobiles should not be used while driving. I do think that mobile phone styles don't help either. I have often wondered just how many accidents have ocurred while actually trying to dial while driving rather than having a conversation; the digits are so small!! Bet you the latter is smaller. Since the new regs about using phones in cars I have re installed my old Nokia 5.1 complete with its hands free kit; had trouble getting a decent battery though. It works great and i'm not too afraid to leave it in view when i'm out the car, not a particularly modern attractive version. The phone on its cradle really does interfere :lol: with the radio when it does its data handshakes with the cell transmitters, but has no affect on any other digital bits in the Gal. Don't know how the gals' digital bits would cope with a badly matched 200 Watt ssb/am CB burners from 20 years ago? :D There was a lot to be said for points and coils then I suppose. Rich

John, 15K to get home! Only NASA can compete with that :lol: Did it affect your fuel consumption much either way? Rich

I think it may be a chain on the petrol rather than a belt. Thats the 2.3 and not the 2.0 so Im not 100% so get a second opinion first Rich

Just refuelled, the light had been on a while but I had to stop at 80 litres I'd no more cash on me. It was still going though, no puddles honest. Is this the norm for a 70 litre tank??

"Black dots, black holes. You dont see any for 3 million years and all of a sudden seven appear on your screen" Quote from Holly, Red Dwarf Series III I think. Sorry folks this came to mind reading this thread. Rich

Is it a constant, continuous hiss or just a brief hiss?. There can be a hiss associated with both the brake servo and / or the cruise control. A brief noise does not necessarily mean that there is a problem but if it is a long hiss then that suggests you may be loosing the vacuum. I have driven both the petrol and diesel variants and the the short his is noticable on both; more so the petrol version. Maybe because its quieter at low speeds. As brakes are involved I would checkit out with a main dealer or specialist just for reassurance if nothing else. Rich

Hard driving in France 1100 mile round trip, 4 up, plus luggage and aircon on auto. I returned 29mpg from a 2.3 petrol. I was quite pleased as it was better than I expected. Rich

I can see where this guy is coming from. Many vehicle systems leak, some take years to leak to a point of concern, some are quicker. Checking the system every year is good in the fact that it prevents the gas levels getting too low and preventing the oil from circulating correctly and hence inevitable damage. However systems should not leak and the ones that don't, don't need to be de gassed and recharged every year. In fact if a reliable system is tampered with annually then there is more danger of introducing problems. Moisture ingess, foreign body ingress, overcharging undercharging etc. I disagree that a climate control system deserves more attention. The fact that a climate system regularly switches in, even in winter is a good thing. I think regular use and regular circulation of the oil and gas far outways the fears of general wear because it runs all the time. The points made have some vadility, but if your system is reliable I'd leave it be. A system that has been working well for 4-5 years without any attention will not have lost the slightest amount of oil even if it has got a really slow leak. Use it regularly and leave it alone. If there is any hint of a problem or deteriation in performance then get it sorted because that is when the problems start to occur; dont try to keep using it. Rich