chucks4x4

Sorry Ken can't remember how to upload pics but I'll try to write the method. Removal 01. Slide blind rearwards. 02. Tilt sunroof & remove glass retaining screws, 2 each side. 03. Lift the glass out. It's as simple as that, replacement is slightly more complicated. 01. Replace glass but do not fully tighten screws. 02. Close panel 03. Loosen roof opening panel screws on each side, 3 each side. 04. Place a 1.0-1.2mm, 150mm long plastic spacer (I used one of the kids plastic set squares) between the glass & the steel roof at the rear. 05. Do not tighten the rear two screws at this point (or any of the others), adjust the rear edge of the glass. Push the rear edge of the glass up or down until you get it sitting flush to 1mm proud...........Tighten rear screws (torque later). 06. Make sure the glass is central in the opening. 07. Adjust the front edge of the glass pushing it up or down to get it flush to 1mm low............Tighten front screws to 5Nm. 08. Check glass is still central. 09. Tighten both the rear screws then central screws to 5Nm. 10. Remove the plastic spacer & try the roof. Recheck all screws are tight. It's not really as complicated as it sounds once you get started (just wish I could upload the diagrams). Hope this helps. Ian

Well just dropped one of my lads in town, found more symptoms, coming back joining local dual carriageway, car had no kick down & felt as if trans was staying in sports mode/low top gear. Contemplating sensors in trans, earth connections etc. Thinking back to driving an old MK3 Cortina the dash lights used to go out & i'd slap the top of the dash to get them back on, so nothing to lose slapped the dash @ about 1 o'clock position above tacho................ Low & behold tacho back on oil light out, all systems ok :38: Should of tried the old techniques first. At least I know where the problem lies, must be a connection on the instrument cluster, so see how long it lasts. :D Chucks

I've only posted a few times in the past so feel a bit guilty asking for help now. In the past I've managed to stumble through most problems but this ones got me beat. 1998 MK1 V6 4X4 Auto. Yesterday while out in the car I lost tacho read out & oil warning light started flashing. I believe this is because of the way the car monitors the oil pressure light warning system, it watches for the second, high pressure pressure switch closing above 2000rpm (takes signal from tacho). I've put it on our Vagcom & shows no faults, engine or instruments, I can read the engine revs so believe the sensor (if it's got one)/wiring to ECU is OK. I took it to a pal's garage for a second opinion he checked on his Snap-On diagnostics again no faults & he had no ideas of the cause. The engine is still running smoothly, no noises. The oil level is spot on & clean (changed ~3months ago), so I'm confident it's not an oil pressure problem. A couple of times while driving steadily the gear changes have been really snappy so believe this may be linked to tacho/engine load ? monitoring. The car has 98K on it & we've owned it since new. Removed battery left for 15+mins reconnected it, switched ignition on & clocks did full scale sweep, so tacho is capable of functioning. I don't have the facility to drive the instruments from my diagnostics. Any help/ideas gratefully accepted. All the best everyone for 2013. :38: Chucks

OK sorted it, if anyone else has this problem this may help. Removed full sunroof panel. Found the sunroof has 2 seals, outer & an inner bonded to the glass. Pulled outer felted seal clear of glass It was the inner seal which had separated from the glass as indicated by the screwdriver Contemplated which type of adhesive to use, decided on super glue more liquid so able to squeeze into gap between glass & rubber. Would of been harder to apply high contact adhesive into the gap. Once applied inner rubber was clamped to the glass warmed with a hair drier for a few minutes then left for at least one hour. The outer rubber was then refitted (this took quite an effort) it was pushed up to the edge of the glass. Then from underneath with a pushing rolling motion it was manipulated until it was level with the face of the glass. The sunroof was then refitted to the car & adjusted (this requires the use of a plastic spacer at the rear of the roof). I found a plastic set square the kids used at school was ideal. I won't go into full fitting/alignment procedure but if anyone wants to know I'll post it. Finished item. Hope this is of help to someone :lol: Ian (aka chucks)

I've attempted to attach a photo of the problem. It (hopefully) shows the sunroof in an open position edge on & even shows a small gap between rubber & glass in the centre. Sorry can't figure out how to make photo larger

Thanks Gregers, is that the same method of slackening the 3 bolts either side of the roof & using the plastic 1-1.2mm spacers to adjust the roof alignment? I'll give it a try, just concerned about how the glass is fixed into/on the rubber as it appears to be separating from it. Ian

How much of the drive shaft is left? is there enough to get a good grip of. They are held in place in the gearbox by a snap ring & it can take a good sudden yuck to free them. Alternately drill & tap the shaft & use a slide hammer to release it. Beware trying to lever between the shaft & gearbox (it is soft Ally) & may damage gearbox casing. Ensure the car is securely mounted on stands as quite a bit of sideways force will be required. Hope this helps if no-one can give you any better advice. Good luck Chucks

Ok sorted this, I'll post what I did to solve this in case anyone else has this problem. 1.Unbolted rear drive shaft from diff. 2.Tapped coupling along drive shaft, gave approx 10mm clearence, to enable drive shaft to be seperated from diff & pulled downwards to clear housing. 3.Removed shaft & CV joint from hub. At this point the reluctor ring fell into 3 pieces. Sourced a new ring, see link. http://www.ukpartsdirect.com/ford-galaxy-4motion-19952006-rear-ring-p-526.html We then had this pressed onto the coupling. Replaced the shaft & cancelled the ABS light. While we did this we also replaced the sensor, as I'd damaged it earlier during diagnosing the problem, but this is not essential. Hope this helps someone. Ian (aka Chucks)

Sunroof rubber replacement on a MK1 Galaxy. Does anyone know the best way to do this & best place to source the seal. I've searched the forum & can't find anything on this subject, my problem isn't to do with the drain, but the sunroof glass panel. After getting a sudden increase in wind noise when driving (sounded like a window open) on investigation the noise was reduced when the sunroof blind was closed. When checking the sunroof I noticed that the front of the glass panel was standing approx 3mm proud of the rubber, it should be flush, the other 3/4's of the seal is still in place, so this is definitely the problem. Thanks for any help in advance, before my panel decides to part company with the rest of the car :rolleyes: . Ian (aka Chucks)

Road performance depends on the tyre compound ie. Softer tyre better road holding greater tyre wear, harder tyre lower tyre wear. For tyres of similar compounds. Wider tyres give a larger ground contact patch therefore generally better road holding but have a greater rolling friction therefore slightly higher fuel consumption. Using larger diameter rims means the use of lower profile tyres giving a stiffer sidewall and better cornering. One thing to check is the road rating on the new tyres. On the sidewall with tyre size will be a different number. eg. 205/55/16 93 The last number 93 is the load rating. The Galaxy's should be at least 93 Link to load ratings http://www.blackcircles.com/general/load-rating Hope this helps Chucks Edit Lower profile tyres also mean a slightly harder ride as the walls don't flex as much, but the changes in size you are considering IMO would be small

If it is under the passenger seat the central locking module is also under there, so 90% certain to be the locking relay. Have you had the car long, it is a common problem that the well under the seat fills with water and drowns the module (problem with sun roof/roof gutter drains blocking). Could try to source new module from scrappy, multi purpose relays are cheap to buy. Think the module, if changed could have to be reprogrammed but not sure.

Your old tyres have a rolling circumference of 1992mm the 205's circumference will be 1986mm so your speedo would read 0.3% higher (less distance per revolution) or bu""er all. As has been said you will have to change the wheels for 16 inch diameter ones from the 15 inch you have. As a way of explanation Tyre sizes are denoted by 195/65/15 = 195mm tread width/65% of 195mm width gives sidewall height(Aspect ratio need to x2 when calculating diameter)/15 inch wheel diameter.

Sorry to be slow getting back, I forgot about Ford & VW modules (that used to the V6). Maybe if you set up a seperate post on the software needed (I'm guessing something like Digimoto). I didn't need to have our maf reset but the car did cut out when the revs dropped to idle. We got around this by cycling the car 3 times (getting up to op temp them allowing to cool) best if this can be done by driving, you'll find the car will start to improve as you go (be patient) as the modules learn the new settings. Sounds far fetched but it's worked for us (even had to do it after having the battery off a couple of days.

We towed a Coachman 500/5 (approx 1300kg) with our 98 2.8 4X4 Ghia X (owned since new) over a period of over 9 years, best tow car I've driven. put it in cruise & forget it. The caravan was never able to boss the car around & never struggled even on the steepest hills. We owned a 2 litre Galaxy before & the same caravan nearly pulled it off the road with a snake Only downside I'm affraid is we averaged a best of 13.5mpg measured (tank fill to tank fill) on nearly every trip. I'm getting the same consumption towing my drag car now (1200 kg with trailer). We wouldn't swap ours for anything though.

I would go to a garage & ask if they can put indicator fluid in the header to check that the head gasket hasn't gone. Easy two minute test the indicator reacts with combustion products & changes colour. At least you can rule the head out. It can pressurize the system without leaking into the oil, you may get more steam from exhaust but hard to tell this time of year. Ps could also be the radiator cores are blocked & could do with the system flushing/new radiator. We have found this with cars of various makes over the years.

AS Cyborg said, broken wire, don't know if the design was changed on the MK2's but Mk1's wiring harness in the door sometimes catch on the window runners when they are fully down, the harness wires were slightly to short & can wear through. We had to lengthen our drivers side one several years ago. Can be easilly checked when the door card is removed. Hope this helps. Chucks

I've got a 98 V6 4X4. To get to the reservoir you have to remove the air filter box & helps if you can remove the air inlet pipe to the manifold. It's right back on the drivers side firewall, about a foot below the scuttle. You cannot see it without removing the above (Very badly designed) We replaced all the brake lines last year & had to dismantle half the car. Hope this helps. Chucks

Hi Zorgman. I hoped that they read low :unsure: Mine has shown a BEST of 28.5 on a run, 16.5 around town, & 13.8 towing. That's in the last 11 years we've owned her. Oh yes she's a 2.8 4X4. ;)

I'm only a newbie on here & I'm sure more clued up guys will be along. Intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose, you could do with sticking it on a computer (Vag Com) to see what that throws up. My thoughts would be the Mass airflow sensor could be on it's way out or a loose connection. If you trace the plastic inlet pipe from the air filter to the engine you should find a "T" shaped object in the pipe make sure the connector is securely fastened. If it's the MAF itself then it is a throw away item & would have to be replaced. Hope this is of help Chucks

Hi my name is Ian(aka Chucks) I am married to Angie & have 2 sons (21&18) from the Stockton-on-Tees area. Must admit I stumbled across this site while looking for answers to a mechanical problem. We bought our 98 4x4 Galaxy in 99 with 1200mls on the clock it now has 96K. when we bought her we lowered her 2" with Eibachs, fitted 17" Momos, Quad lights, 2 LCD screens linked to DVD & Playstation. We have used her to tow our caravan all over the country hence the screens to keep the kids quiet :) Angie absolutely loves her & wouldn't part with her for anything. She's starting to show her age & is a bit rough around the edges (the car that is :) ). I'm wanting to do some body work & other mechanical bits when time allows to bring her back to top condition (we do all our own work). I now plan to use her to tow our drag car around so should see many more years of service yet, she still brings a smile to our faces.

Does anyone know how to remove the rear ABS reluctor ring on the MK1 4x4 Galaxy (different to the 2wd) I have an intermittent fault on the rear right sensor, I have ruled out the sensor so now need to check the ring (looks like a similar design to a front CV joint but cannot verify it). I have done the front joints before (split the ball joints etc) but cannot figure out how to remove the rear, none of the manuals I have cover this. I don't want to destroy anything I don't need to :) Thanks in advance Chucks