marty16610

Sounds to me that whatever it is stops making the noise when it warms up. Have u checked the exhaust system for loose joints? OR the belt tensioner?. Good luck hope u sort it m8. Just a thought could it be your tappets?

RIGHT. Got all the bits i need from GFS- water pump complete with housing

RIGHT! I'm getting nowhere with this so i'm going to fit new water pump (at last you all sigh) change stat again, flush engine block and replace antifreeze. If that don't fix it nothing will. Someone recommend a decent antifreeze to use?, currently got blue/green in. KEEP WATCHING will update when its done Many thanks for all the great suggestions :rolleyes:

Hi everyone. Ive flushed the rad and its clean as a whistle, i don't think its pump as heaters blow HOT all the time especially the rear one. When i changed the stat i could feel the water pump impeller still attached and spinning with the pulley (it feels metal not plastic). got a feeling its a dodgy stat not opening as there is circulation round engine and heaters but not rad. If pump is u/s would the system pressurise? I SHOULD HAVE CALLED THIS TOPIC "COLD RAD" :rolleyes:

So does mine :angry:

Cheers chaps will check rad tomorrow and flush it through.

Have you checked the Aeriel connections on the rear window?, could be loose or corroded.Also tailgate wiring.

Hi m8. Just had gear change probs myself (selector bolt fell out into gearbox) I suggest check the following:- Selector cable adjustment Oil level Anything fouling the selector linkage Clutch operation Finally whip out the selector and check that if all else fails (mine cost

RIGHT! Took the car for a good run today here's what happens. Temp gauge starts to move after about 2-2 1/2 miles, it slowly creeps up to the "m" on gauge (which is usually when i switch the heater on) i didn't this time and kept driving until gauge was just before the red. I pulled over and checked the rad and bottom hose, BOTH COLD. Top hose very hot, System is pressurised, coolant level between min & max marks. Total driven 14 miles round town 30-40 MPH. If its an airlock how can i shift it? Ive squeezed the top and bottom hoses what else? Cheers in desperation :angry:

MM-- Many thanks for going through all that. I agree with you about the idle statement, it takes forever for my temp gauge to move with it just ticking over. Ive a feeling my gauge might not be giving an accurate reading,have to look into that possibility. Cheers m8.

MM-- when gauge reads on the "m" of norm while driving that is roughly 3/4 of the way over, surely that is hot enough for the stat to open? Mat'Tdi-- My temp gauge goes higher when driven faster than 30/40 but i know the water pump is OK. Does your rad get hot or warm at all?. If its an airlock I'm bu**ered if i can shift it, I've spent ages squeezing the hoses and yes i did fill it slowly and run it with exp cap off. :angry:

Finally got car back on the road (see "no gears") and guess what! the bottom hose and rad are still cold. water pump ok, new stat fitted, heaters hot all the time, temp gauge goes up to "m" of norm and then i bottle it and turn heater on full and gauge comes down. I'm thinking if rad is blocked surely bottom hose would get a little bit warm?. Stat i fitted is 87 any one know roughly how high gauge will go before stat opens ? ANY further suggestions gratefully recieved, Cheers :angry:

Hi m8. I didn't have any warning of anything wrong but saying that since the selector has been repaired the gear change is much more positive. Might pay to whip selector out to check-better to be safe than have an empty wallet.

So we will be hearing a lot from u now then. Welcome to the diesel club. :)

JOB DONE. box removed and stripped, bolt recovered no apparent damage to gearbox, box refitted and car returned. Total cost

Bill and Ben laying in bed. "flob-a dob" says Bill. "Hurry up and f**king swallow it" says Ben.

UPDATE! Car goes in thurs 20th to have bolt recovered from box. im going to get the new bolt spot welded to lock it in place so i dont have to go through all this again. I also found the cause of my occasional hard brake pedal while its been off the road, split servo vac hose, ordered new one to fit when i get the car back. CHEERS ALL :rolleyes:

Hi m8. Ive read a lot about mixing different types of antifreeze and many people don't recommend it. My advise would be to drain system completely, flush and refill with Ford Super Plus Premium, unless anyone out there knows different :P

Got exactly the same car as u m8 bought 4 weeks ago (50k). Mine does the same, changed oil & filter still does it. I think its something to do with there being 2 oil pressure switches, one on the filter housing & one on the cylinder head.

No probs m8, hope it sorts the gauge

Whats the difference between a prostitute and a drug dealer? The prostitute washes her crack and sells it again :lol:

Fill system to MAX mark slowly and squeeze the hoses to get the air out then run engine with expansion bottle cap off (DO NOT DRIVE) until warm preferably till stat opens then allow to cool and top up to max. You my have to top up again after driving as any trapped air is expelled

On mine the sensor was telling the engine management system the engine was hot when it wasnt, hence the fans kicking in. Check Haynes manual section 3.17/103 radiator fan third speed switch. Confusing aint it. Part # INT 55103

Could b a short or possible bad earth/faulty handbrake switch

Hi m8. Is the sensor in a housing on the gearbox end of the cyl head? if so this is the coolant temp sensor for the engine management it also sends signals to the temp gauge and warning light so (according to Haynes) you are correct. I did mine a short while ago as my rad fans were coming on when the engine was stone cold. I bought mine from local branch of Camberley Auto Factors