Rockabill

Hi, I too wanted to do this when I was having a problem with our '04 1.9Tdi overheating. The Haynes wiring diagram (their is a disclaimer at the beginning of the chapter saying it is 'representative') shows the power supply from Fuse F18 to the thermo switch as red (connection no.2 on the switch), and the outputs as Red (connection no.3) and Red/White (connection no.1). The connector numbers are very hard to see unless you have the thermo switch removed. On our Gal the thermo switch is on the drivers side of the radiator about a third of the way down. To test test the fans I bypased the switch and connected the red cable from F18 to either of the other 2 cables on the switch. With one of the cables both fans come on and with the other just one of the fans work. When I checked this out and found both fans to be working, I thought the thermo switch was broken. I replaced the thermo switch but still over heating. Turned out to be a loose impeller on the water pump, and therefore a lack of flow/heat through the radiator to activate the thermo switch. Even though the top connection rad pipe felt hot, checking the bottom radiator pipe it was found to be cold/warm. Rockabill

Hi, I have a 04 1.9TDi Galaxy and followed the excellent FAQ #43 (Vanbursta) and #31 (NIKpv) on dismantling and repairing a broken wire in the door to 'A' Pillar Gaiter on the drivers side. The help/advice I need is with the re assembly of the plug into the 'A' Pillar socket. I believe I get the 3 wedge shape keys on the plug to line up with those in the socket, but I can't seem to get the 3 locating pins on the side of the socket to engage with the helical slot in the castellated locking ring. I have removed the castellated locking ring from the plug. As separate parts, the castellated ring will then screw into the socket and the plug will push into the socket! I think the castellated locking ring will only fit onto the plug one way as the 3 retaining clips appear the same distance apart as do the 3 helical slots which receive the plug pins? Can someone help or have I missed something? To make it a little more frustrating, half way through I had to do a run to pick up the kids. I pushed home the plug into the socket without the castellated locking ring. The plug "clicked" into the socket and now I can't get separate the plug from the socket! Does anyone know if the plug and socket lock together? Does the castellated locking ring (now not fitted) "unlock" the plug and socket when turned anticlockwise? Should I just use more force to try and pull them apart or is there another way of separating them? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Just asemblying the engine mount after replacing the water pump. First time I've taken off (on the driveway) a cam belt and agree with chrispb, the access is reasonable to change the belt, pump, tensioner. The most difficult parts to access I found were the 4 bolts which secure the crankshaft pulley (I again agree with chrispb, removal of the wheel would make access easier, Haynes Manual does not mention this and I didn't but if I had to do this job again I would defiantly remove the wheel) and the bolts at the back of the engine mount bracket attached to the engine. Access to these is not great and I wonder if anyone has ever managed to put a torque wrench on these without dropping the engine out!

An update. I managed to remove the 6mm pin in the camshaft hub with a pair of vice grips and a lot of pulling. Turned the crankshaft very, very slightly until I could fit in a 6 mm dia. drill bit. It fits snugly and can be removed easily. The Laser Tools C157 (OEM T10050/310-085), which I had used earlier, is too tight a fit to fit all the way in. Loosened the 3 camshaft sprocket securing bolts and turned the crank very slightly until the crank locking tool fitted into place. Checked the arrow indicator at the back of the tensioner was in the middle of the gap, removed locking tools, turned crank through 2 revolutions and checked everything again. With regard to my concerns about the tensioner, when I pull the belt between the idler pulley and the tensioner towards the front of the car, the pointer on the tensioner moves in a clockwise direction and when released returns to its central position. I guess I'm sorted?!

Mine is a 2004 1.9Tdi. I took off the cam belt to replace the water pump (detached impeller). In doing so I aligned the marks for TDC, inserted the crank shaft locking tool and the 6mm pin in the camshaft sprocket (which was a tight fit but went all the way in). Mine is fitted with a mechanical tensioner. I first removed the idler pulley, loosened the 3 screws in the elongated holes in the camshaft sprocket. I next slackened the nut on the tensioner and was able to move the tensioner back with an allen key. I did not insert a locking pin. On re assembly of the tensioner, with the 3 screws on the cam sprocket loose I wound the tensioner clockwise until the arrow at the back of the tensioner aligned with the notch and tightened the tensioner nut followed by tightening of the 3 cam sprocket screws. I can not now remove the 6mm pin in the camshaft sprocket! Haynes manual mentions loosening the 3 sprocket screws, which I have tried. Any suggestions on how to proceed would be much appreciated. I'm wondering if not locking the tensioner before taking it off and before replacing it has something to do with not being able to remove the 6mm pin? Inserting a pin in the tensioner after removal of the belt does not seem to make any difference to the tensioner.

Just replaced the drivers door mirror on a 06 Galaxy. Excellent post and thread. mumo4 and A&Z are correct. I believe the design of the Yellow fixings is such that they should be slid upward and not prized off (on my door this had been done previously and broken off the plastic receiver on the card for the fixing). Additionally, on mine, as the card comes off, I needed to disconnect the door latch pull cable at the latch end and the cable connector to the alarm LED on the door.