fredthomas

no?

another point, if there was low oil pressure, you could not get runaway or oil in the pipes surely

cheers for the input guys but just for the record, the fix i did was to stop the thing making a noise only i had the pressure checked by a garage who said there was no fault with the oil pressure and as it turns out it was an electrical fault making the oil beeper come on the turbo as it turns out was on its way out when i got the car, there was always a lot of smoke on startup ant the amount of oil in the intercooler pipes was excessive when the belt went, i have been fixing cars for 30 years and joined this forum cos i was unfamiliar with this particular beast, i am also a qualifies electronic test and service engineer, and i have been to university studying electronic engineering incidentaly the oil light still works

well i got out to look (i use this term generally cos i could only see it with a mirror and a torch) it has siezed solid and oil everywhere, fairly safe to say gone to turbo heaven, it is a 028145702P type, not easyto get hold of. any one know what bthis means and will others fit

ok i am confused i have the afn engine, so which turbos will fit, there are hundreds on e bay and mine is rare on there so will an auy one fit and any problems giving me a headache

yeah freaky though, only a short burst but it got me thinking, thats why i looked it up. now i need another turbo quick, well hacked off i missed one for 82 quid on ebay this morning, gonna be 200 notes now, bummer

Hmmm ive heard of runaways still being driveable afterwords, but the engine is basically a complete mess (injectors clogged with molen metal), pistons buggered due to lack of lubrication. If thats whats happened it will probably mean a new engine including turbo :P. wasn't a complete runaway as such, just reved quite high for a few seconds, scarey moment when you think the car is possessed haha, seriousle could have been a lot worse cos the engine was hot

i have been reading with dread about engine runaway, i was driving up a dual carriageway when the car lost power i could only get 50 with my foot down, and there was loads of smoke out the back and coming in through the air vents, i got off the road and with the engine ticking over had a look to see if i could see anything obvious, it was then that the revs went up to about 4k and it sounded like a loud knocking/rattling at the same time. i limped it home and it did this a few more times, now having read up on the phenomenon i am convinced the dreaded runaway started but i was luck that there was not enough oil to keep it up, now i need a new turbo methinks.

well another up date, top engine mounting done, much better but the original noise is back. no more judder and vibration but when i go down a dip there is a rumble, mechanic says drive shaft so i will investigate when i have found a replacement turbo, mine blew big style, only doing about 50 and there was a huge loss of power, and bucketloads of black smoke out the back and under the bonnet, now there is no power and no turbo whine, black smoke and smell of burning oil makes me think i have a LEMON, any one got a spare turbo lying around

if i ever get a a day off b some decent weather c time when i dont have to go shopping

another update, had the top rubbers replaced, baring replaced and the bottom ball joint, also a new shock on the nearside, not a bit of difference this noise is really bad now, so engine mountings next, starting with the bottom one, i cant see any movement on it but we will check it anyway

well more investigation done, the top rubber on the strut totally shot, the bad news is the whole thing is rusted solid so it will have to be cut off, drivers side, heres the thing, it will be a lot easier to remove the whole hub with it but does the drive shaft pull off the extension, we will see

again this is a vibration through the body as well, how far does the bush at the top of the strut stick up, mine seems a lot

no that was my first thought, it does sound just like that, but the is no evidence of this, i did think it may be top bush but i will wait for dry weather.

here is a strange one, i have been crawling around under the car for hours and i am still no closer to finding the problem. when i go over a speed ramp and as i come off it, as the car dips there is a humming noise, as if there is a vibration as it reaches the bottom. there is also some engine vibration felt through the body work, pedals steering wheel also, now as i said i have been under the car and have found, engine torque control bar has a split rubber at the engine end ( i cant find these on ebay any ideas where to get them), o/s bottom ball joint rubber broken, but no play in it as yet. and the driveshaft inner joint seems to move a bit, how much is normal. it is getting worse but until it breaks i am not sure where to start. apart from that i replaced the drop links but cant see any thing else amiss any ideas?

cant you just remove the seat for the mot

is there a loudish click from under the bonnet when you turn the key

i was going to say that, i got it too but not fixed it yet

have you had any luck?

no probs, feel free to e mail any questions

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5460

the engine is semi safe, it breaks hydraulic followers, if none of the valves are bent, check by taking the camshaft out and the followers and measure to the top of the valves, if they are at the same level they should be ok, new followers, belt and tensioners, timing up is not hard when you know how, there is lots on here about it, support the engine on a wooden block and jack but you only need to take the side mount off to get the tensioner on, i used a 10mm long reach socket to time the pump pulley, the camshaft uses a metal plate in the groove at the gear box end, crank timing marks are apparently under a grommet on the top of the bell housing, but i had some on the crank pulley, not a hard job if you be careful, when you put the belt on turn engine by hand all the way round to make sure it doesnt catch any valves and you should be ok

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=21965&view=findpost&p=161223&hl=&fromsearch=1 try here

all i did was take the instrument cluster out, take the screws out took the back off and unsolder the noise maker, when i put it back together the warning light no longer flashed when i went over 45 mph, obviously it couldnt make a noise but it seemed to cure the fault as well

any brake fluid leak is dangerous