tona955

HI I have a good spare working unit, if you are interested please drop me a PM.

Hi URS4, the plastic wheel connected to a steel rod in the AUX heater (Brown wheel) that you mention is actually to extract the exhaust gases from the AUX heater, the runon pump in the engine bay bulkhead pumps the water through the AUX heater. Hope this helps

Thanks man, I will have a quick look at the connectors tomorrow, was it the blue or green connector. I still feel it's something to do with me removing and installing the engine, I must have disturbed something, I wish VacCom could test the instruments and the speedo sensor a bit better, won't show up any faults for me. Zorgman seems to have had a very similar fault to mine after his engine install but I can't seem to find the earth line he spoke about. cheers

Hi Well I found out which wire was the common ground within the multi plug (Brown/Yellow), but grounding this would not start up the car, turning over but not firing, I removed my madeup earth strap and it fired up so I am clearly on the wrong track. Zorgman, if you are not to busy and have the time I would really appreciate a picture of the area's you are talking about. Many thanks in advance bud. Regards

I had the same issue with my 2002 Sharan TDi cos of an air lock in the AUX heater matrix located at the back of the car. First I removed the pipes going into the AUX heater this was done from underneath the car just before the AUX Heater, using a garden hose I flushed out the rear heater pipes removing allot of rusty water, I then reconnected these pipes and went to the engine bay. Removed the two hoses going into the run on pump, stick the garden hose into the hose going down towered the rear AUX heater and let it flush out until clear water runs out. Connect all the hoses up where they should go, lift the front of the car a little book says 50cm but I used (AXLE stand hight) and fill up the cooling system, lover the car and take for a run until it reaches temp, I just ran mine at fast idle for 15min, switch off and let it cool a tad and refill if more coolant is required. Now, provided your run on pump is working correctly and your AUX heater is also working correct, you will have heat within 15 minutes, mine does nay bother... The bottom rad hose will remain cooler as it is returning cooler water to the block, just make sure your cooling fan cuts in every now and then, my temp needle also stays at 90 deg. Hope this helps, if not take a drive up to Scotland. Regards

Hi All, I am very new to this forum and would just like to say, compared to other forums that I use this one has been the best source of information. The response has been quick and accurate, searching through previous posts I have been able to rectify a number of small faults on my Sharan. Members here are more than willing to share their experience and knowledge all you have to do is be polite and have a little patience as all posts are dealt with equally. Regards

Hi all, Well, I have checked all my earth points and they buzz out good, checked the 10mm bolt near the multi connector and it is also good. I have also checked the earth pins on the blue connector that plugs into the instrument panel and I have good grounding. I am till not sure regards the brown traced 5 wires within the multi connector, perhaps Zorgman would help out here please. I seem to remember a few months ago while my wife was driving, she decided to re-adjust the steering wheel down a little, the speedo meter started to work but only for about 10miles and packed in again. I can't help thinking that perhaps its simply a bad connection since my engine install. I would appreciate help with the following questions if poss please. 1, Should the multiplug wires be grounded, if so which ones? 2, Is there a way of testing the speedometer sensor on the gearbox? 3, Can the free version of VAG-COM test my speedo or sensor. 4, Upon reconnecting the battery I still do not see the clock needle reset. Thanks in advance Everywhere is closed and I am bored so I might as well fix something....

Hi all and a Happy new Year folks Moving on back to this speedo fault. Zorgman, thanks for your input, looking at the round multi connector, I have 5 brown wires with various trace colours are you suggesting that I should strap them together and ground them? do they not provide some power to the injectors within the cylinder head? I cleaned out all contacts on the ECU and checked for grinding and all is good, removed the speedo sensor from top of gearbox and cleaned it all out checked the ground wire and it was good. Will check for ground on the speedo dash connectors today. Would really appreciate it if you could confirm regards the multi block wire earthing. Is there a procedure for testing the speedo Hall sensor without a scope? Kind Regards and thanks in advance.

Hi Perhaps you have dislodged the MAF sensor when changing the air filter or messing around in that area or even some of the vacuum pipes.

Hi Paul, Yeap, I agree, VAG-COM is the tool you need it would help a great help for diagnostics. Regards Mind you with our weather of late my Sharan is also struggling to kick over.

Hi there Vag-Com is what you need for the galaxy, look on ebay for one of these. you then use it with a laptop http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6 ps I was looking at your other post do you have a MK1 or 2 and what engine code?

Thank you Zorgam, strangely I woke up in the middle of the night and remembered that I had a 10mm bolt missing on my ECU bracket, how sad am I, I will check that multi connector tomorrow. I hate this Christmas shopping rush.....

I have a little Diesel leak on the fuel filter valve and sometimes I find Diesel on the top rim of the filter, on these cold mornings I have seen it almost jelly like liquid, but perhaps because it is exposed and not inside a fuel line.

Yeap, in the same boat...even the Sharan struggled to fire up easy at -11 up here, I think you may be correct about the freezing fuel.

Thanks, will try that, the multi plug at the right hand upper side of the cylinder block only has 4 or 5 pins in it tho.

Hi Thanks for the input, I shall check the battery test tomorrow, I though it was upon ignition like some motorbikes do. Would you know where the resistor would be in order to check it, I see your logic regards the fact that it was working before I reinstalled the engine therefore I did not want to start looking for dry solder joints within the instrument panel just yet. Is there a way to test the speed sensor on the gearbox? does it work much the same as the CAM/Crank sensor magnetic principal. Thanks again.

Hi Does anybody know if the dials should do a test reset upon ignition? Thanks

Hi Many thanks Zorgman, I have started another post for this issue but will check the poor earth issue tomorrow. Cheers

Hi All, As a new member I would just like to say what a great site this is, and what a pleasure reading through so many good, interesting and informative posts by such helpful members. Although I have a VW Sharan, this forum has been a great help, so thank you to all you clever members. OK, I have a VW Sharan TDi Year2002, engine/gearbox code: AUY/EHH, I bought this car last May with a overheating problem from a private seller and drove it a few miles to my garage so I know the speedo and fuel gauge were working. I removed the engine and replaced the Cylinder head as the old one was in real bad shape, all required gaskets were also replaced. Since the installation of the engine back into the car, I have not been able to get the speedo working and the fuel gauge fluctuates rather allot, especially when braking and turning corners....it's a real pain not to mention the constant beeps. After reading posts on this forum I have done the battery disconnection suggestion and also removed the clocks and reseated the two connectors, I tried to look for the known bad earth issue within the multiplug but it seems well wrapped up in its plastic sleeve, will try and check this tomorrow. I tried to look for faults with VAGCOM within instruments but it comes up all clear, I have read somewhere on here that the gauge needle should do a test cycle upon ignition, is this ture? as mine does nothing at all, mileage count does not go up nor does consumption details. Techo works good and so does the temp gauge/clock. Is there anyway of testing the speedo sensor on the gearbox or indeed the speedo itself? Think I have lived with it long enough and thus would really appreciate a little help with this one. Many thanks in advance once again. Best Regards

Hi All, Many thanks for the help. Well, tho it was -6 out there I decided to install the Aux heater, it didn't fireup first time, I checked and cleared all fault codes, also removed the fuel measuring gizmo and gave it a clean. Next start and it all came to life, car heated up is about 5 minutes..WOW....picked up the kids from school and they were complaining about the heat....can't win eh!but am liking the jet engine sound. Only issue is that the radiator bottom pipe is still always cold especially at the thermostat housing side, I just took a trip down to Edinburgh and back about 60 mile round trip but that hose was still cold, could this be a block in the radiator? All in all it was worth all the work, no more smoke or smells in the cabin, I am actually turning the heat down this time. Next job, getting the speedo and fuel gauge working....I'll be back.... Many thanks once again for all the support..

Hi All, Very new to this forum.. I have a VW Sharan TDi Year 2002 Engine code:AUY Gearbox:EHH Due to the extended delay in heating up the cabin I decided to service the AUX heater and other things, The glow plug tested OK some of the soft gaskets within the AUX Heater were perished so they were replaced with VW original parts, also removed the chamber and cleaned it all, its is ready to install back tomorrow. I replaced the stat and all relevant gaskets/O Rings, currently bypassed the AUX heater pipework to get the car started......in order to test Still taking a long time to produce good heat, if I let it idle it would take days, I kept the revs up to 2.5 and got it up to 90 Degrees mark, would not go any further than that, hot air was there but I expected hotter, upon checking the bottom hose coming from the stat housing it was cold indicating that the stat had not opened. If I then let the car idle with the heater blower full on the temp needle actually cools down, I stuck a bit of tape on one of the cooling fans and it does come on. Question is, is it normal for the temp gauge needle to go cool when idling? the circulating pump is working fine also. The cylinder head was replaced last summer with new gaskets and other than the heating issue the car runs great. I would really appreciate some help with this. Many thanks in advance.