BigRik13

My V-reg Mk1 flashes the indicators, but didn't have factory fit remote locking.

I ended up installing this kit inside the tailgate itself. I have a reversing alarm, so wiring the "flasher" output to the reversing lights means the car will beep when remotely locked. One issue was that, on actuating lock/unlock, the kit triggered the switch for 3 seconds, which will obviously wind down all the windows. I had to wire in another relay, diode and capacitor to create a "constant to momentary" output (instructions on the12volt.com). Now everything is working beautifully!

It's normal if they turn on when you've just started the car. Then will go out when you press the brake pedal - see the replies above. If they're flickering then I reckon you've probably got some chaffing in the wires leading to the trunk door, or the brake pedal switch, as above, is on the way out. Give these components a wiggle and see if that causes the flickering to worsen.

Turns out it was several corroded cables (someone's old, bodged repair) under the passenger sill plastic. The puddle under the footwell, that I hadn't seen before was also partly to blame. Clue came from some sudden wisps of smoke as I was driving. Never disconnected the battery so fast!

I removed this fuse when the alarm was giving me grief from the faulty central locking. Lights will still flash though.

I know that in my late mk1 sharan, it's body side. I'm thinking of doing some splicing and joining on this myself, accessing via the jack compartment.

Hi all, Central locking in my 2000 late Mk1 Sharan has a pretty frustrating issue that I hope someone has encountered before. Having repaired approx 15(!) cracked wires in the tailgate and drivers door gaiters, the central locking works perfectly until the accessory delay relay times out, for example, if I lock the doors and immediately unlock, all is fine. However if I leave the car locked for more than 10mins, unlocking the door will not actuate the central locking. However, then when I physically open the door, all the doors will suddenly unlock. Clearly a loose earth or a wire I've missed - if anyone can save me dismantling the doors again, I'd be grateful!

The advice seems to be to install in the jack compartment, where all the necessary wires already exist (apparently).

I've gone for the chrome stepping stone remote kit at meanmachines.biz. Admittedly, it'd help seeing the quality of the installation instructions and basing my choice on that, but in the end I based it simply on which remote looked like it'd last the longest (ie sliding parts on the remote might look slick, but it would soon be in pieces at the bottom of my wife's handbag. Seems that the kits themselves simply act as another key switch, latching a +ve or -ve signal into the existing lock circuit. What can possibly go wrong......... [wisps of smoke]

Ok so I've fitted a new drivers door lock motor and everything's running as it should. Sorted.

When I bought the car last year, the black core had fallen out of all four of those switches! I replaced them all then, and to be sure have just checked them and they're all good. Thanks for the suggestion.

Ah - found info regarding the three layers. Before I embark on dismantling the dash, is there anything relevant to the central locking on layers 2 and 3 though? And is this the location of the ecu? I've a Haynes manual in the post. Thanks

Sorry my mistake - it's actually an early 2000 model (it came with ridiculous vanity plates so the year isn't obvious!).

Hi - first post, but long time reader of this great forum. The central locking in my Mk1 Sharan has completely died. This is a 1998 model without the locking ECU in the passenger seat well. I also don't have a remote fob, so central locking is only actuated through turning the key in either the driver door, the passenger door or the tailgate. The problem started last week when the drivers door locking motor started making straining noises - then yesterday, before I had a chance to dismantle, the entire central locking system died. All doors need to be locked manually either by turning the key, or by using the interior handle - the tailgate is actually now unlockable. So, turning the key in neither the drivers door, the passengers door nor the tailgate will now initiate locking. Fuse number 19, which is indicated in the fuse box diagram as being for the central locking, is fine. Today I dismantled the drivers door and did a visual on the motor and latch, just so I know what to get from eBay. I checked continuity on the two connectors on the motor through to the door connector, and all cables showed up as being fine. So now I've run out of things to check - why is the central locking completely dead?? A couple of questions might help with my diagnostics; 1. If I've disconnected the door connector on the drivers door, can I expect the central locking on the other doors to still work? It's not the case here! 2. Is there more than 1 fuse to check - I've attached a picture of my fuse box - every fuse checks OK, but as far as I can see, only fuse 19 relates to the central locking. 3. Where is the locking ecu when it's not under the passenger seat? Is it one of the connectors on the fuse box? 4. Is there an interim way I can make the tailgate lock on the key (as it's not secure until I fix)? Previously, turning the key in the tailgate lock would actuate all the central locking motors, and would also prevent the tailgate from opening - now, with the central locking dead, it doesn't do anything! 5. Any other ideas/checks would be appreciated! Thanks for your help