adie_morris

Sorry for the delay, waiting for my wounds to heal! Here is the final verdict. The car has been transformed with the new Dual Mass. No more Noise. No more Judder No more drag Just lovely smooth gear changes and a nice quiet Gal! Haven't owned mine from new, however I suspect that she has been returned to her original glory! So to summarise, I wouldn't touch a solid flywheel conversion with a barge pole, even if maybe the one I had was just a one off dud. Job time now 6hrs, not bad for struggling on the floor with axle stands and a jack :D

Just realised I haven't mentioned the other problem with it........... Judder! Quite bad when taking up drive!

I am not taking the risk of doing the job a 3rd time! I have ordered myself an original sachs dmf and clutch kit. It is strange that the Original DMF option is

Hello Guys & Gals. I have seen references to Solid Flywheel Conversions on the forum, but not seen any posts by any one who has had one! I thought I would share my experience with you......... My DMF was getting noisy and gear selection was getting worse on my Tdi 115. So after reading up on Valeo's Conversion Kit I decided that it would be a good investment and set about the job last weekend. Job itself wasn't too bad, Dad is a Farmer so made full use of a Matbro and front end loader to lift that big heavy box in and out!! Now the verdict......! Lets say the damn thing is coming out again. Gear change is worse but the major thing is the vibration. The DMF's job is to Damp down the torsional vibrations and these engines have a lot. Valeo reckon that they can absorb these vibrations by using extra strong springs on the clutch plate instead, thus removing the need of a DMF. Well I have to say in the case of this particular engine Don't even think about doing it. I shall be removing mine ASAP as I am concerned that the vibrations could damage the box or even snap the crank! The DMF may be a pain and in some cases unreliable, but it does do a tough job! If anyone has had a succesful conversion, I would be intrigued! Incidentally, after the event I Googled Solid Flywheel Conversions, & there are mixed reviews out there.

Have read this with interest, as Mine has done exactly the same. Everything that has been said here is correct but whilst browsing my TIS cd I came across this statement........ "The Turbocharger Runs at very high temperatures and therefore an amount of oil will pass through the seals, this is normal and should not be considered a fault. Turbo failure is normally associated with noise when the lubrication system no longer provides enough oil (excessive leakage) to lubricate the bearings". Bearing that in mind, common sense will tell you if there's a problem by the amount of times you are having to top up the oil level! As mine is not really using any, I'm not too concerned yet! but I will be looking for an Intercooler shortly. Another interesting co-incidence....... this has only happened since I disconnected the EGR valve & an amount of oil is prevalent in that area too. I have re-connected it now and it seems to be better (dry).

I have seen the same posts, however, beware. I spoke with Fuchs Technical (one of the largest Oil and Lubricant brands in Europe) and they told me that whilst there is a good chance that that spec of oil will suffice, they wouldn't recommend it and do you really want to risk your gearbox for £20 ? Gregers, all forum members in the Telford Area are welcome @ Unipart in Wellington, ask for me and You'll get some discount! :) Ade http://www.fuchslubricants.com/

Morning all, Can confirm sparky paul is correct. I work for a motor factor & this oil is always an OE only option (or special sh*t as we refer to in the trade!) lol. It's not the cheapest, but I wouldn't risk anything else. Regards Ade

My money is on good old water pump impellor fell off again! if i had a pound for every one lol. Also stuck thermostat would cause similar problem, although I suspect your heater would be warm. Don't think it's faulty temp sender, due to your cold heater and the fact your gauge takes a little while to rise. Very unlikely to be cracked head if no coolant loss. Hope this helps, and sorry for the bad luck ! Ade

Hello, Noticed mention of the pump near the heater itself, well it is actually midway along the main metal coolant pipes roughly in-line with the passenger front seat, it only fires up when the Aux heater does. Think mine maybe on it's way as it has gone noisy, tick tick tick tick, either that or a time bomb gonna go off! :wacko:

I have had same problem for months. Totally baffled everyone! not least me, really ANNOYING! Also find mine is made worse when a high electrical load is switched on ( very prominent in current cold conditions). Well, finally I may have discovered the problem! I have disconnected the EGR valve (removed vacuum pipe & blocked off) now idles sweet as nut! I suspect the fault is in the solenoid that controls the EGR valve, as it seems to be permenantly sucking. I am sure it shouldn't do that at idle as the valve should only open during load and increased engine speed. I notice the solenoid is available aftermarket, so they obviously do fail. :-) But seeing where it is located........... not doing it in this weather! Hope this helps. Ade

Hello, Yes the 115BHP is Normally AUY engine. There is normally a white label stuck on top of the timing belt cover which has the code on it. Ford don't like to publish VW engine codes! They prefer to use the cryptic method! You will probably find the BHP on the logbook but no VW eng code as ford use the last few digits of the chassis number as their engine numbers. There is also a difference in the TDi badge on the boot (if it's still the original 1) I think the 130BHP was a red TDi badge, 115 is silver with a red outline and the 90 is just silver. Someone will tell me I'm wrong I'm sure & some totally useless info for you!

Sounds to me like the impellor has fallen off the back of the water pump! Is a common fault on 1.9Tdi.

In theory I suppose there would be less soot emmitted and gases would be a lot hotter with petrol. Don't think it would have done injectors much good though :-(

Mine doing about +- 200 rpm, but intermitent and not just if the air con is on, if ac is off and switch lights on it does same. Don't think it's anything to do with electrical load though as voltmeter test was ok and you can also feel it slightly if you are on a flat road doing 40mph in 6th (engine speed near idle). any slight increase on accelerator and fine. It's the intermittent bit thats such a pain! Not played up today either ;) MAF sensor going on her next time she throws a wobbly! (sounds like the wife! although MAF sensor won't cure that one!)

I am in the process of having mine done at the moment. Having to get 1 at a time done as could not find a temporary set of wheels to use. It is a SLOW process! The company I'm using is only a couple of miles away from me in Telford http://www.knwheels.co.uk/

Thanks for that. Hopefully this could be the answer then. I shall change the MAF next & report back on findings! Having said that she has run fine again today! :unsure:

Thanks for that Chris, The same thought had crossed my mind, but the dilema is, do I go out on a whim and put one on it, as there are no fault codes! It does still have the original one on it, pretty good going 118k and 8 years old. I was having a good look at her yesterday and it seemed no matter what I unplugged, it stopped the surging! For example, I unplugged air flow meter, run sweet, plug back in, rough! Unplugged Map sensor, run sweet, plug back in, rough! Then just as I went to clear the new fault codes I'd created she ran sweet again & didn't play up at all after that :( I also managed to get voltmeter on her when she was surging and can rule alternator out as that was remaining stable. Did you have fault code showing when you replaced yours Chris? Ade

I can't remember the exact speed about 2.5k I think, but it tells you on the can & yes use full can. Be interested to know how you get on, as I said before it does depend on how badly caked up your vanes are, but if your limp mode is intermittent, there is every chance it will do the trick. :D Ade

***********UPDATE************ Well, had a 200 mile drive yesterday & I really didn't hold back! As you'll see on my previous post, I had no probs at all on Saturday, so I was hopefull it was cured. She started surging again before I had even finished getting the kids in the car! So I gave her some real stick all the way to North Wales & back . One thing I noticed, was you could slightly feel the surge when driving at low revs in a high gear, say 40 - 45mph in 6th. Anyway, by the time we got home she was running right as rain again! & today? Not faulted again! So, the jury is still out as to whether or not she is cured! I have a couple of thoughts as to what it may be, see if you agree. 1. Possible Alternator, unstable voltage at low speed ........need to get voltmeter on it next time playing up. 2. Possible MAP sensor, this senses the vaccum in the manifold, higher the reading the more load is being placed on engine, signal to ECU, more power please..(I simplify!) if giving false readings, VAG com job. 3. Split Vacuum pipe, I don't really think so because it is intermittent. 4. EGR valve, possibly sticking open, should be closed at idle, else it will choke the engine with exhasut gas. 5. MAF, but still doubting this one as there are no fault codes present. Anything else ?? Ade

Been fine for 2 years now, I too thought it would come back when it was colder, but didn't happen....... & I think the coldest winter in 30 years was a pretty good test! It has also helped re-educating the wife's driving habits....... don't drive a TDi for economy, they don't like it! :)

Hi all, Thought I'd share a fix with you. 12 Months ago my Mk2 115 tdi developed the loss of power limp mode bug which is soooooo common on tdi's. Like most people I suspected MAF first time, but with no fault codes I was not inclined to change it. I then looked into VVT's or Variable Vane Turbos, which is what the PD engines have (mine). Reading about how they work and matching my symptoms to the many short start stop journey's that we used to do, it became clear that the turbo vanes had become clogged. Now there are some real good posts on how to dismantle and clean VVT's, but I wanted to leave that as a last resort. I work in car parts and stumbled across some Wynns EGR Valve cleaner (available from Unipart) It's pretty potent stuff and it's in an aerosol. You remove the air intake from the MAF sensor and spray down the intake (full instructions on can) You have to have someone to hold revs up for you whilst you do it & only do it in short spurts else engine will over rev.... big time! It is also vital that you don't get any near the MAF or it will be history! I was amazed at this little aerosol, because it cured mine instantly! More extreme cases may need another can or if really bad may not work at all. But for the cost about

Cheers gregers, Another 24 hrs and still seems ok, although not been far in it today. Tomorrow is the big test, north wales, that should warm her up nicely ;)

Hi all. I have been a member here for some years, however for some reason my other account will not allow me to post! I have a 115 Tdi 2002. Have done a lot of work to her over the last few weeks. Firstly, I finally got around to doing the glow plug in the aux heater.....then had hastle with leaking coolant pipes, but sorted now :rolleyes: Then I did cambelt (kit) & water pump, was about due again at 117k Full service (apart from pollen filter, did that last time, hate that job!) O/S Track rod end changed N/S outer CV Boot. Changed the Bracket securing intercooler pipe under crank pulley, found to be cracked! New Rr Shocks. That was all a month ago. No probs until today. Car is driving lovely, however when my wife pulled up at some traffic lights today, she noticed that the idle speed was up and down like a yo yo. Take the revs up slightly and runs fine again. As I was at work and couldn't get home & she was panicing she wouldn't get home, we called RAC, he didn't know what was wrong but said it was safe to drive. I got home from work and started her up. I then worked out that the surging idle speed only happened when there was a load applied , i.e. a/c comes on or all lights switched on. Switch all auxilliaries off & she's sweet as a nut! I am now starting to wonder if it's alternator related or MAF. I got my VAG COM out and a quick code check revealed... Nowt! all fine. Next I removed plug from MAF and immediately noticed the surging stopped! I gave a good blast of the throttle and re-connected MAF. Cleared the fault code that had now been generated & to my suprise it now seems ok! It is early days yet & I expect the fault to re-appear but was wondering if anyone else had knowledge of anything similar. A strange fault that should only occur at idle & only under load but otherwise drive fine. I should also say that today was a very hot day about 25c, so a/c had been working hard, but saying that even with that off and just headlights on it was surging. Am hoping to drive to seaside on sunday, good 2 hr run, that will be a test. Any help or advice appreciated. Thanks Ade