sad_git

I have a fm modulator fitted inline for my dvd player and now wish I had got a wireless type. The problem is that the 2007 unit sends a voltage down the coax to an aerial amplifier. The wired modulator blocks this feed and impairs radio reception.

should be changed after about 4-5 years. As the name suggests it removes moisture from the system, in time they become less effective through saturation and need replacing. Receiver dryer should also be replaced after replacement of any other system components.

I have recently replaced my wiper motor due to total failure. On inspection the failure was caused by water entering the motor control unit (part of motor assembly). A 'tide mark' was clearly visible indicating that it had been sat in water for a prolonged period. After washing the car I noticed that the new motor was in danger of the same fate as water was not draining away from the scuttle tray directly under the motor. As a precaution I have drilled a small drain hole in the tray but on reading previous posts I suspect that the corner scuttle drains may be blocked. You could be having the same trouble, the water may be shorting out the control unit.

Abs sensors generate their own ac voltage of at least 0.2v up to .5v if the wheel is rotated at 60rpm. If your multimeter measures ac voltage it is a good check for faulty sensors.

Used to service a fleet of mondeos, this fault is usually a loss of compression due to the hydraulic lifters jacking themselves up and holding the valves slightly open. Try an oil and filter change, but you must flush the engine thoroughly. Use a good quality engine flush added to the oil before changing, they usually say run the engine at fast idle for 10 to 20 mins. Put the flush in and drive the car at fairly high revs for about half an hour before changing the oil and filter. You must use a semi synthetic 5w30 oil, anything else could cause the trouble you're having. Best of luck!

I thought the same about the econ button. I recently had a fault that meant the econ setting wasn't working (air-con on all time) but having fixed it I've seen little or no improvement in mpg.

Unfortunately this happens regularly, sometimes defects are missed, some testers interpret the manual differently. I suppose this is inevitable as the manual can be vague at times and testers have to use their own discretion. This discrepancy isn't limited to testers, having dealt with numerous VOSA staff I have seen many different opinions on the same issues. I think one thing we must remember is that this directive doesn't mean that Galaxies cannot be failed on play in strut mountings, only that the manfacturers information should be taken into account. The method of raising the vehicle with the suspension hanging hasn't changed either, this type of suspension must be checked this way as play in other components could be masked by loading the spring. This isn't the first time a manufacturer has said that a relatively large amount of play is acceptable in a suspension component, it usually happens when a component is failing due to premature wear on a regular basis and it is costing loads in warranty replacement! In all the cases I have witnessed a new component has no play and should therefore be considered as the norm.

Wasn't having a go at you topbloke, I was referring to vr6's post. I'm an MOT tester, so it's a subject I can really get my teeth into! I was going to post the same article but you beat me to it, you in the trade too?

Yes, this only applies to Galaxys, VOSA can only act on manufacturers information and input so until VAG and SEAT submit the same info it doesn't apply to these models. As for going back to the MOT station to complain, how can they be responsible if the vehicle was tested before the information was published (this publication went out near the end of last month).

Ford recently changed their spec on oil and specify 5w30 for just about all engines from about 1990 on. 10w30 would be ok as the ka engine is an overhead valve unit and therefore is not too fussy about oil grade.

Sounds like you have a faulty transmitter fob, I had the same problem. New remote fob from Ford is

close all doors, bonnet and windows, insert key in drivers door lock, turn key to right 3 times in 5 seconds led in door should start flashing within 15 seconds press and hold lock button on key fob and press unlock button three times while still holding down lock button release lock button led on key fob should flash 5 times led on door should flash 3 times repeat for all other remotes programming mode exited when led on door goes out

Thanks for trying but I'm afraid mine's different, the surround is curved at the top and it has dual zone control. I tried quite a few online parts finders but no joy yet, but no worries it's not that important as it still works ok. Definately won't be buying one from dealer @

Problem Solved :unsure: Well, solved as near as damn it. Short to B+ turned out to be faulty pressure switch, although working perfectly the high press. side input from fuse 28 was shorted across to low press. side input from atc unit! Hence air con on permanently. New switch

Thanks for that J., disconnected coolant blower control unit and air-con still kicks in. Checked wiring to relays, control unit and compressor although wire to clutch cannot be shorted to b+ as evaporator switch is still controling compressor. Took car to my mate with autodiagnosis kit and it came up with the original code plus another one which I had cleared previously and ignored. 65535 Internal control module memory error. According to mate this means that the control unit is goosed and most likely the short to B+ is internal. Will put request on parts gateway and a few others tonight, don't fancy new one at

spoke to my supplier today regarding discs & pads for my car and they say brembo list 288mm discs for 16" wheels upto the mk2 and then on, 300mm for 16"

No, ECON displays instead of AUTO but system still works with air-con. Tried turning climate off altogether today but air-con still kicks in. Managed to read codes today with vag.com came up with:- 01188 - Electrical connection between control module and magnetic clutch shorted to battery +. Have checked all wiring that is reasonably easy to get to and can't find the problem. Found that removng fuse 28 cures the problem but it also supplies wipers so cannot leave out. Suspect fault may be in fuse box but major job to find out!

The display on my climate control flashes for 10-15 seconds on start up. I know that this indicates a fault but I don't have vag.com yet to check it out. The only apparent fault is that when it is in ECON mode the air-con compressor still cuts in and out, the button doesn't seem to make any difference. I have recently fitted new compressor and drier, the system pressures are ok and the delivery temperature is within tolerance. Any ideas?

No, didn't remove headlining, managed to lower it at B post just enough to feed wire through. Wiring routed down side of b post and door step trims, after removing front door seal, and on to back of radio area to dvd player. The screen mounting plate is screwed to the headlining with self-tapping screws. You may prefer to use some reinforcement above but I didn't think it necessary, in my opinion the headlining is well supported and quite strong. As i said, the biggest problem was fitting the dvd player in the lower din aperture because of the steel brace behind it. I had to remove it using a carbide burr on a high speed die grinder (very limited access). If you need any more info let me know.

Thanks for the advice and pics vr6, fitted screen and in dash player today. No problems other than the steel brace behind the lower din hole, had to remove it! Will post pics sometime, only just got home and not had chance yet.

Thanks for that, looks like i will have to reinforce with plywood or similar (no s/roof). Piccies would be great, I have sent my e-mail address to you thru the forum e-mail facility. Cheers

Have you got a roof mount screen vr6galaxy? I've just bought one and was wondering if I could screw it straight to the headlining or would I need to put the adapter plate above and screw thru the headlining. Would appreciate your help, thanx

Thanks for the suggestion, will bear that in mind for any future probs (fingers crossed there will be no more). Ordered the pipe this morning from ford dealer, not in stock as usual but not a bad price (

Interestingly, vehicles with single circuit braking systems have to make 25% efficiency on the parking brake instead of 16% for dual circuit. This suggests that it is considered as an emergency brake and parking brake on single circuit systems and just parking brake on dual circuits.

Speaking MOT language, it is properly called a 'parking brake'.