sad_git

May be able to help you there, :) I changed a clutch unit for a motor trader last week (he went for clutch only against my advice) but it turned out although the clutch was faulty the compressor was knackered. He rung me this morning to ask if i could fit him a compressor so as long as it's not an exchange unit I'll have a spare clutch :D

MUST be the clutch yes, but beware, compressor could be faulty too so changing clutch could be false economy as I said! (exchange compressor comes complete with clutch)

Mine's dark metallic blue Melina Blue as in my picture

He says he's got power to it in his first post

Normally it feels 'lumpy' as you turn it, difficult to give a definitive answer, I'm just going on my experience. Still think replacing clutch only is false economy, as you say the whole thing is not much more money and you could end up replacing compressor anyway.

Only if you dont have a leak if you do then to ask for a certificate of gas collection would be a bit superflous. Quote "I had an intermittant pressure sensor switch problem and cleared that. The pressure seems about right in the low pressure side." In this case there is pressure in the system which is why I gave the advice, it is illegal to purposefully vent a/c gas into the atmosphere.

The bill shows the receiver/dryer was replaced - they said exactly the same thing - this would have caught the debris so is changed as a matter of course along with a flush. I am going to hope the new compressor and another flush will do the trick tommorow .... One other question if I may - will running the system with the Aircon on do any damage if the evaporator is blocked, my thought is that running the system on and off might dislodge the debris or am I being too hopeful ! Running a/con shoudn't do any harm, the pressure switch will stop the compressor pumping if there is a blockage causing high pressure. If they haven't finished the job there's a good chance they didn't re-gas the system so it won't work anyway.

I would have thought any debris should have been caught by the receiver-dryer, I presume this has been replaced at the same time as the compressor. Ford's method when compressor fails is to check the colour of the oil drained from the compressor, if it is clean then just replace compressor and receiver-dryer, if it is discoloured change the whole system! :D I think if the system is flushed thoroughly and the receiver-dryer replaced it would be ok. Best of luck

Cut off date is March 01 on so "Y" reg onwards emissions based.

Got mine on Tuesday, taxed online, got new tax disc Thursday! Hows that for efficient!!!!

I would get it inspected by a qualified installer and get a certificate for the insurance company if they need it. The car is covered by my business policy so I doubt they would need to know but I would tell them anyway just in case. (I don't need to give details of each vehicle owned).

Don,t think there's a problem with the car, we recently did a round trip of about 400 miles on motorways. At a steady 70 mph the average was 30mpg which is about right for the 2.3. My wifes driving style is not helping, throttle only has 2 positions, on and off! I wouldn't even consider converting if I had to pay any more than

According to trip computer over the last 70 hours running the average consumption is 14.5mpg. I am probably in a similar position to Marcus, wife uses Gal and I have company van. Her average journey is about 1 or 2 miles but this can be several times a day so the engine stays warm throughout the day. The annual mileage is approx 4000, so by my calculation it would take about 18 months to recoup the initial cost. 4000 miles @ 14.5 mpg = 276 Gal = 1255.8 litres Petrol 1255.8 X 95p =

I am thinking of DIY fitting an LPG conversion to my Gal. As the engine has to start and warm up on petrol and it will only used for short journeys, would I be wasting my time? I have read various posts on the subject of LPG and know that there are differing opinions as to the safety of gas on the forum. Having done some research on the subject I am satisfied that it is safe. Has anyone out there got a 2.3 Gal with a sequential gas system who can tell me roughly how far they have to drive before switching to gas?

I have Navman 510 and heated front screen. I invested in an external antenna and find that although I get a signal without it, I get a much better signal with it.

I have roof mounted Boss screen and 3 sets Sony IR headphones. I found that as you say all IR headphones work on the same frequency.

I have dual zone climate control but it is a single evaporator system, refrigerant weight is 950g +/- 50g. Without rear evaporator, control for rear temp is limited to within a few degrees of front for cooling.

Had same trouble with mine. I managed to swap the bearing in the pulley for about a tenner but it didnt cure it. Turned out the belt was rubbing on the inside of the crank pulley flange. Wear in the tensioner pivot itself was causing the pulley to run at an angle making the belt ride outwards. It is difficult to see this wear in situ, but if you find the belt is wearing on the outer edge this is most likely the problem, only remedy, new tensioner assembly at around

Had exactly the same effect on mine when slowing down, like the brakes are going on and off and a slight judder when braking at high speed. Changed front disc and pads and all is fine now.

Hi, I have a similar problem with my CC , flashes on startup. The fault on mine is the CC unit itself (internal memory error) which I diagnosed using VAG.com. As there is no noticable effect on the system and due to the cost of a new unit I am putting up with it until I find a good s/hand one. As the dealer regassed the system I would doubt that it is down to low pressure. Bren

Remove engine undershield, disconnect starter wiring (after disconnecting battery), remove two securing bolts, withdraw starter motor. Refit components in reverse order. Not exactly rocket science!

Refrigerant triple pressure switch is one unit which has high and low pressure switches. It is located ontop of the receiver drier which is under the o/s/f inner wing. I had a problem with mine and found access to the wiring plug easier from the top by removing the headlamp. Low pressure side of switch:- You should have 12v at pins 1 and 2 with a/c on (engine running), if the switch is faulty only pin 1 will be live. In this case the switch is registering low system pressure and will disable a/c. High pressure side:- If the switch is registering high system pressure pins 3 and 4 will be live and the cooling fan should be on high speed. If the cooling fan is not working the system will quickly over pressure and cut out. Hope this helps

Same pipe went on my 2.3 after replacing filter drier after replacing compressor! Fords price is around