Steve_Mk1_2.3A

Cheers, Found that anything without remote locking is normally coded 00005 - +1 for the all doors lock/unlock - the remote only one has a much higher coding. Wonder if you can recode them to enable locking as there are only three levels of CJB on the Galaxy ...

There are several readers on eBay that will read VAG and Ford codes for the Galaxy. I have VAG COM and one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=330414731387 and they are ideal for the Ford engined models. There is an EOBD option to read the Ford codes - does other makes too - and will reset the lights etc. Well worth

Would be interesting for board members to know how in VAGCOM to determine this. Steve :-)

I've got a mk1 so I assume that some tweaking might be needed. The Toad from what I have read uses two wires to lock and unlock - which the Galaxy can do - but the alarm has the extra 3 wire switch on the lock which I assume checking the diagram needs to be triggered when the locks lock/unlock which I guess means using a relay or two to trigger the "alarm" pulse when un/locking the doors? I know that the RK30 seems to be the option for mk1's but I wonder what your input on this is ? Steve

I've been looking at the RK30 kit, did you get this to set the alarm as well or just lock and unlock the doors? Steve

You needed from the dealer when it was purchased: Convenience Pack 2 - Volume Sensing Alarm, Remote Central Locking and Load Compartment Cover If you have one of those you'll have remote locking. The CJB has three levels, 1) basic systems, 2) + with VSA (as above) and 3) + with Door Ajar/Lights Warning. It would appear if you have 2) then you should be able to program a key for just remote locking. It might be something that could be coded in VAG-COM. There are coding levels for the CJB which mention alarm and alarm pluds remote locking or just remote locking. Maybe someone with VAG-COM knowledge could shed some light on this. If so you could buy a remote key from FMC have that cut and programmed and remote locking added that way. Steve

Yes; VAG COM will do both and most of the handheld VAG devices will reset most lights and read most codes. Plenty of choice on eBay for them both. Or if you live near a member with one; a beer I am sure will get your lights put out :-) Steve

There are a couple of plugs that can have single violet wires running from the OEM ford radio depending on the other options. Telephone, Navigation and the RES all are options which change the looms up at the front end for the radio. The signal wire from a genuine ford radio keeps the rear system running - probably not to flatten the battery, maybe your system is turning off the feed and the back units are going to standby? The option on a lot of non OEM systems is to use the feed for a electric aerial - which is live when the set is on to keep alive any systems that depend on it. Key off and you loose the 12v so that other systems once that has dropped will power off or sleep. Your issue sounds like levels are too low for the headphone socket. They are probably "line level" which is designed to be fed to an amp then onto headphones or speakers. If you've removed the VCR could the DVD player not use the OEM leads? I know you could get a genuine DVD player as a later option.

The multi plug has a locking ring on the outer edge which rotates 90' left (anti clockwise) to "pop off" the plug. You can if you have a good look see the dents in the ring that allow you to tap it off if you cannot grip it properly. Don't use huge grips they will crush the plug's body :-( Using a tool (screw driver or similar) tap the ring round to undo the lock and then the plug will come out. Once you've fixed the wires you can push the plug back in and then do up the collar ring to tighten the plug up properly. You might find some lube will help get the ring off and on and the plug in/out as well. You could remote the check strap bolt to allow some more access to the plugs to get to them if you need. I was going to look on TIS for a picture but they really don't help that much. Steve

Without knowing your exact car (assuming it is pre-98) then you're looking at the comfort and locking module located under the passenger seat. As you said the washer bottle was dumping it's fluid into the compartment - the common "death" this causes is loss of central locking and other related services. A quick check to see the module and multiplug condition will tell you if you need a new module or not. Ultra common - they used to leak into the foot wells when it rained hard or that pipe split and kill the modules. Later cars 8/98-> have the electrics reworked so the CCM is in the CJB up out of the way. The only other issue Gal's suffer is the wires break in the door pillar rubber boots. You can peel these back and a wiggle of the wires will show which ones are broken. Normally causes one door to stop working or the central locking to recycle along with windows that give up! I would check for water damage first. Modules from a dealer are expensive - a scrappy or ebay will be better value. Remember to relocate the module up higher on spacers when you change it! Steve

Another check on early mk1 Gal's is the central locking module is under the passenger seat. This fills with water if you have a leak and kills the module. Pull the seat and the hidy cover and have a look to see if the module and/or the area around it is wet. Steve

Did anyone cure this 100%? I have a 2000 2.3A and it does exactly what it say above, when cruising nothing but the moment you accelerate up then the whole car shudders/wobbles. Just about to have strut top mounts as they are shot - but anything else to look into? I know this is an old thread but something I guess might be known now? Thanks Steve

If you get a cluster from a high series and connect that up you'll find your a connector short on the dash. This carries some info for the trip computer and the door ajar/lights out. Now to add just the computer you need the dash MF switch and a couple of sensors. Depending on what you need. If you plug the cluster in with one plug you get both displays however you cannot control the second. If you add the stalk with the MF controls you'll need to wire the three pin plug up (which you don't get on the loom) to the second missing connector on the cluster. You add the three wires for the switch - that allows you to alter what the cluster shows. Now to add in the missing bits you'll need a new washer bottle with level sensor and an outside air temp sensor and looms to match. Armed with those you can wire those up to the missing connector at the dash. That will give you the low washer and outside air temp warnings. You can if you want to go further get a new sump with the low oil warning sensor and plumb that in too - but you might only be interested in air and washer - the low oil light really is for lazy people who don't check it! I would prefer to know I have oil that rely on a bulb to tell me! You'll need a wiring diagram and a donor ghia to rob parts from. There is one feed from the PCM that you need to add to the second plug to give MPG or the DTE wont be able to calculate what's going on :-) Door ajar and lights out can be done - but that is a major rewire of lots of bits as the CJB is used to collate lots of electrical information and route it accordingly. Your low series loom wont have any of that. You could however if REALLY brave try a CJB upgrade from a donor car and see how you get on. But that is never for the faint hearted! You'll need a good wiring diagram and or access to a TIS CD. 98MY cars were rewired compared to anything before so make sure you get the bits of a pre 2000 3/4MY car or things have changed to much to make it an easy job! Not a 10 minute job but all do-able! Steve

Hi all, Glad to be a Galaxy owner! I have a mk1 2.3 Zetec and doing a few electrical upgrades :-) Was easy years ago when I worked for a dealer as most things were in parts but it gets a little harder when you need to source on line and you don't have access to all the little bits you get used to having in stock! I've updated the cluster to one from a Ghia and that's worked a treat and I have the trip computer stalk as well. But I need the multi plug from the dash C809 (the right hand black one) and the plug on the MF switch (3pin) with about 6" of wire on each. Anyone here have such a beast they are willing to chop up? From TIS I can see the only extras are the PCM feed to C809 and the washer level warning and outside air temp sensors which are missing on Zetecs and would need adding if I wanted everything working. However looking at the door and lights module wiring (which the dash has) that is a whole new ball game to wire up! I can do PP or cash on collect. I am in HP19 :-) Has anyone here done such an upgrade? Did anyone ever do the lights are door bits? Or not bother? Oh one last question I don't have remote locking. Is it possible using factory parts to upgrade? A new key/remote and the comfort/locking module - or is it more complex than that? TIS really does not give much away for the remote part of the system unless it is IR and not RF. Thanks Steve