Steve_Mk1_2.3A

Hi, Do you have a list of the issues? We might be able to remote diagnose and let a local sort that out for you? I worked for many years at a Ford main dealer and specialised in auto electrics and comfort and convenience systems - I might be able to help. Cheers Steve

I would, using VAG-COM reset the transmission adaptations. There is a couple of ways to do that but a reset and try to drive again and then look for the flare ups. But without codes from VAG-COM you're stabbing in the dark. There are various issues with fixes for the 5 speed box but all involve a scan before you proceed or you'll be hunting for it for ages! Can you get it scanned? VAG-COM and lead from eBay £15 well worth it. Regards, Steve

No & No. Are the quick answers - the TDIs have differing internal ratios for the auto boxes. And more TDIs have the AG5 box not the AG4 that most 2.3's have. You'll need to source the correct box. what's wrong with it? Proper broken or just playing up?

Yeah; could be fluid level or the valve body playing about. If you have VAG-COM you can monitor the gearbox as you whizz about and look for anything strange going on. This is especially true if you can make it faulty more or less on demand. VAG-COM is not much off eBay for the lead and software and with a Galaxy a worth while investment. Change fluid then have a see what she does. Steve

Sounds very much like RELAY 27 (30) - there is a FAQ on here for changing one. Did my Mk1 recently took about 40mins end to end to change it out. Cost about £10 from euro car parts or about the same from Fords. Worth changing just in case ... other bits do cause trouble but not as much as that relay. Steve

Clear the codes first then go for a run - you've got some standard "gone wrong" codes there. If a code comes back concentrate on that one. Probably a G68 sensor - try that one first - there are tests you can do in VAG-COM to see it's output signal. MBs then go to grp 5 or 7 and look for the G68 / VSS sensor - it should show "data" when the car is moving. If not then that's probably the reason. All sensors are external bar the oil temp one and are fairly easy to change. HTH Steve

Hi, Scan the transmission with VAG-COM - the ELM reader won't do the gearbox. Look at the codes then come back here and post them to us complete. 1st & 3rd is normally LOS or low or no fluid! If the trans is in permanent LOS mode then clear the codes then immediately go for a drive - if it appears normal then wait until the fault occurs and scan again. If it is still the same after clearing the codes rescan and see if they've come back. Common faults are the wiring by the big plug at the back of the battery and the loom to the g/b from the car - that breaks under stress and water gets into the g/b multi-plug that causes the symptoms you mention. Scan and report back. HTH Steve

Hi, Ford dealer for the key batteries they are dead cheap. They can order you a manual by the VIN or REG. The back doors have the child locks on - look at the door latch when open - you'll see a little lever - move it to the other place it goes and the doors will work fine. The radio code a dealer or some 3rd party places can get for you from the radio sticker or in some cases the VIN. HTH Steve

Sounds like someone at sometime has enabled anti hijack - there are two options - one key on doors lock and the other key in - car 15kph+ doors lock - You can deprograme it with VAG-COM if you don't like the feature. From memory the wiring is - to lock/unlock so a + from the ing being turned on would not induce the car to lock normally. And yes you can program the remote control part yourself - but the PATS needs to be done by a key cutter - FORDs charge a lot a third party will be cheaper. Steve

Hi, Your best bet is to get it from VW it is fully synthetic and the current VW number is G052171A2 - that's for the 6 speed box and is recommended now. HTH Steve

Hi, The whoop squeaky noise is normally the box sound when they are getting on and the fluid is in not to great shape! The clunk can be lots of things - the valve bodies do wear (well the pistons etc.) and this causes the pressure to leak about the box - other things cause that as well but the VB with time begins to wear - and you'll have differing faults depending on what is worn. A good trans specialist can probably tell you if fluid alone will help or you need some more bits. A VB overhaul is not mega money - nor is a torque converter. The box complete however is expensive - they were new and they are now! But they are very fixable. Try a scan & fluid and see how you get on. Steve

Hi, If that's right and the engine was steamed cleaned then you have a good chance that water has got into the connector behind the battery - the big square one or the one on the gearbox - they are notorious for trouble once they get wet. The worst case is the loom is needed as the pins corrode off. All very fixable. Clear the codes then go for a drive and see what you get. You can if you have VAG-COM see the transmission in action is you use the measuring blocks option you can monitor the shirt solenoids as you drive. Fords TIS CD has a chart showing which ones are in use per gear - you can then compare VAG-COM with the list and confirm if one is not working right. But #1 do the wiring first. Steve

My bad! NSF indicator is where the pump hides out!

I think a lot of people confuse the remote programming with the PATS programming. A new remote key MUST be programmed for PATS - or the car wont start - and then programmed for the remote control to work - that is what dealers do - they do the PATS then the remote - hence the unearthly charge! A key cutter will clone you key to get the PATS code - therefore negating the programming at the car - a dealer will add the key and any others to the PATS system. The key cutter will just clone a working one - which is a cheat but does work! The remote flashing but not sending is common - most tend to be buttons that have failed and yes a lot of money from a dealer to get a new one. Mind you VW do a flip one for £103 that works a treat with the Galaxy ... Regards, Steve

Hi, There is a pipe in the OSF wing space that goes. Take out OSF headlamp and you'll see it :-) Fix / replace as you see fit. The pumps do go ... but not as much as the pipes! HTH Steve

Hi, Normally with the AG4 boxes a missed or slow change from 3rd to 4th is relating to box fluid pressure leaking down and thus not engaging 4th gear (this applies if it is intermittent and when engaged it is fine) - sonnax the people in the US who make repair kits for lots of auto boxes have this under their "common" fix kits lists! Not a horrid job to do but would need to go to an auto gearbox specialist to have it done. BUT remember that you might have 4th you might not have the TCC locking up properly which makes it feel like you've not got 4th when in fact you have - you just don't have the clutch locking up. The higher gears slip first with low box pressure - I think 01192 in VAG COM is the TCC slipping. There are other possibilities but a scan with VAGCOM will eliminate all the "electrical" issues causing this - 99% of the time you'll see Gear Monitoring: Implausible Signal - which means the output speed does not match a pre-set range for the input speed. Consider the box has 3000rpm in and then output says 3000rpm in 1:1 that's fine - but 3000rpm in and 1000rpm out means 2000rpm's are going somewhere! That triggers that fault code 00652. One to watch for! It can be a faulty sensor - but again these tend to be a global fail rather than intermittent. Fluid pressure bleed down is the most common for not getting the gear you wanted. You'll see this in VAG COM in measuring blocks as excessive transmission slip. Which is normally bad. Drive the car with VAG COM and look at measuring blocks group 7 field 1 - you'll see gear changes and what the car thinks the box is doing! Also the solenoids do fail ... but again VAG COM does a good job of seeing that! BUT it is not all doom & gloom - I had a mk1 that was strange - after a fluid change it was like brand new! So yes that £100 on a change might just be the love the box needed. Scan first then see. But make sure if you get a lead & VCDS then monitor the box - you might have a cheaper repair. Also water gets into the big plug at the battery & the transmission connector - take both appear clean & then spray with a good lube and reseat. Regards, Steve

The flashing light normally means the oil sensor is defective (broken) or unplugged. The other faults indicate that either the dash fuse has blown - but you've got other bits working so not so likely or the dash has failed - which is rare but does happen. I changed one a while back for no readouts and kept another as a spare. It might just be loose plug(s) round the back of the dash. The sensor for the oil maybe again just related or of course it could be faulty. Pop the dash out and unplug it for a bit and plug it back in. The dash is from memory scanable with VAGCOM for fault codes if you have a scanner. Regards, Steve If you are very stuck and it is fault then I have a mk1 dash and for some £££ I can send it you! It does work - about 110,000 miles on it.

Have you scanned the gear box ECU with VAG-COM? That's best before you move on with looking for the concern - it might only be a sensor ... stuck in first can be many things the AG5 box you have has a couple of weak spots BUT installed in the Galaxy - there are some traps that can get people caught out that "make" them change or overhaul the box for the wrong reasons. Scan first then report back. Regards, Steve

This might be an old post but I've got the Connect2 aux in lead that plugs into the 6000s changer connector and then routed the 3.5mm lead to the back to the headphones socket so that the audio plays out oif the car's spaekers. I just fade it off the fronts so that the kids in the back can listen to Toy Story over and over and over and over and over and over and ... Works well. ....

Hey, After having some fun getting a fix for my mk1 2.3 auto fault I've learnt a lot about how the Gals AG4 works with all the various electrical bits AND viola it hit me today looking at TIS that the early AG4 mk2's had tiptronic AND that there was no physical changes to the box - lots of people refer to the later valve body etc but that's AG5 - the 4 has the same item just a slightly revised TCM and the obvious bit the new gear change housing and lever. Looking at TIS it seems if you don't mind missing the gear display on the dash you only need the TCM, level and the various bits there and the wiring updated slightly. As I got a AG4 tip module from a 2001 whilst fault finding mine I think it is about time to put that to the test! Going to go off looking for a breaker with a 2001 or 2002 auto mk2 I can rip the gear shift out of, then armed with that all should be a simple job. The cable only does P - N - R to change the box the other gears are all done electronically - if you look at TIS you can see the D (1234) part is all electronic thus making tip mode simples :-) Will let you all know how it goes once I've sourced the bits. But has anyone here done such a mod? Anyone with a AG4 tip tell me if there are any advantages to it? Do you even use tip? Cheers & Beers Steve

There is a multiplug at the bottom back of the gearbox (large round one) this gets water into the plug part and causes all kinds of stress. The internal ribbon is pretty good - normally the external plug and loom causes issues - sometimes with alot of water the pins pull out. You may not see the ingress as the plug is meant to be sealed - but if super careful you can cut the plastic away and see tell tail signs of water (the green death). Normally its random shifts or stuck in limp mode if water is everywhere. You can, in vag com see the changes and the response from the box in measuring blocks. Of course could be an TCM - mine was :-( Regards, Steve

Hi, Anyone with a loom or breaking a Galaxy for a mk1 1999 2.3A Galaxy, the loom comes from the plugs by the battery down to the large plug at the back of the gearbox. It might have the TCU plug as well or just the gearbox ends (I need the large plug at the gearbox end). Thanks in advance. Steve

Assuming the remote locking is OEM then it is part of the central junction box (MFU) which would mean that if you're sure the keys are all fine then you'll need to change that and recode the keys. They are not cheap, and make sure you get the right one. If it is not OEM then you might be lucky and find the same unit to swap out with a new one. *** if the system is OEM and you don't want the cost of a new CJB then you could go for something like a TOAD, which are

I have a trans guide (attached) for a 96M which is similar - *but* may lead you down the wrong path - however it does have VAG COM charts that might help. Regards, Steve 096 Transm.pdf