t-aslam

Does anyone have a part no for the green cap? I can't seem to be able to convince my local TPS that it wasn't supplied with the hose and they are adamant it comes with the hose. I re used the old one but I don't feel it's blanking properly.

Ok replaced the N75 and so far so good, However that said its only been tested on local roads and I'll thrash it on the m4 later tonight. The turbo spools up a lot smoother and kinda feel as if the car has gained some more muscle.

Oh yes I remember I had the air box off last week while replacing the brake master cylinder and had to move the car while the box was off. So that explains that. I'm going to fit the N75 and see how I go from there.

Oh and I did clear the codes before I hit the motorway that time.

Hi, Yeh I ran a scan and got two fault codes: 17552 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Open or Short to Ground P1144 - 35-00 - - 17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation P1557 - 35-00 - - I already had a spare Bosch maf I swapped out a few years ago as a misdiagnosis so I swapped it out again. After this I hit the motorway again and as soon as I got 3000 revs she went gutless again.

Just about to replace my N75 valve as all of a sudden I'm getting a flat engine if I push her over 3000 revs. My gal has done 238k mostly motorway miles. Just for reference I've been informed the old part number was 1J0906627A but has been superceded with 1K0906627E.

Ok sorted, I put a gunson eezibleed pressure bleeder on the reservoir and cracked open the ports at the MC for a few mins. Then bled all round again and no more spongy pedal.

Hi, I have a problem. I needed to replace the brake master cylinder on my galaxy (mk2 tdi 115). So I took the old one out, not so straight forward as the reservoir is all big and odd. So I placed the reservoir onto the new master cylinder, I bled it using the finger over port method and installed it. It was almost impossible getting the master cylinder with the reservoir fitted back where it should be. The odd angles that I had to Manoeuvre it through at meant most of the fluid leaked out through the clutch feed port and the master cylinder brake line ports, back to square one? Anyways I bolted everything up and bled the shit out of all 4 calipers. There was lots of air, however the pedal is spongy and slightly lower than usual. What can I do? The access to the MC is so tight it's difficult to get it back in without it leaking all over. Any ideas?

Nope. Didn't think tracking issue would cause car to tremble. Or does it?

I just bought a pair of driveshafts from j&r, they sell a pair for

Viper bro, I assume you're talking about the track rod ends and not the track/tie rods themselves. As mentioned I did replace these not long ago, HOWEVER, as we all know new or newish parts can become problematic before their time. So what your saying is there should be some resistance at the track rod end ball joint ie it should not twist too easily. Hmmm. Got my MOT tomorrow morning so if it fails on that or advisory on that then we'll be getting somewhere. And an online pat on the back for you lol.

Ok I've bled the abs system and the pedal is a lot firmer. BUT, I have another problem. The steering and in fact the whole car shakes when braking from high speed. Sometimes it is accompanied by a knocking sound from the front right. This only happens when braking and I cannot figure out what it is. The wishbone bushes look fine, the track rod ends were replaced about 60k ago with genuine parts. They don't appear to have any play and neither do the lower ball joints. I also replaced the caliper guide pins and greased them before fitting. Could it be that the air in the system caused my new discs to warp all round? That's the only thing I can think of.

Did u manage to resolve this issue?

Excellent thanks!

Thanks for your quick replies. Sparky, I have VCDS lite, is it possible to do the flush/bleed with this version? I'd rather do it the correct way. Also just followed that Ross tech link and it seems as if I just have to plug in VCDS and operate the abs unit for a few secs. Then after that do an old fashioned bleed all round. I also saw another vagcom procedure online which involved having just the front bleeders open and brake pedal pressed 10 times. Don't know if that's the normal procedure with the galaxy too.

Ok, slight improvement after I applied the brakes real hard and got the car to skid. Apparently this has shifted some air out of the abs pump. Still not great but better than earlier.

Also forgot to mention slight steering vibration braking at about 30mph and on and off brake effect at very slow braking speeds.

Hi guys, I have a 2005 tdi galaxy with 235k on the clock. Last week I made a slight error with bleeding the clutch. Ever since the clutch was changed I have had air in the system resulting in a sticking pedal are partially operative pedal. I purchased an eezibleed kit and hooked it up. There is a clear pickup hose inside the pressurised bottle which attaches to the output side (new fluid pushes through this). I accidently attached it to the input. Fast fizzing Air bubbles emerged through the output and was pushed through the system. So much air pressure has built up that when I disconnected the valve from the pressure source (the tyre) fluid came out of the air hose!!! The reservoir ran dry and hey bingo brakes went totally shit. New brakes all round and 1000 miles on and brakes are still crap. Very spongy and probably half the braking force as before. I have bled it the conventional way with someone pressing the pedal and me catching the fluid at the bleeder all round and ensuring the fluid never ran lower than max. No luck. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I replaced mine today. I too had to remove the rubber boot in order to apply pressure and tighten the Allen bolt on the stub shaft. I secured the boot with hose clips. No clickety clack between gear changes! Woohoo.

Hi, I have ordered the parts from Poland for this. Just to provide you guys with some info, the seal mirez speaks of on the stub shaft is a typical driveshaft seal for which the VW part no is: 02M301189G and the brass ring 'lock ring' which falls to bits VW part number is: 02N409374. I got mine from my local TPS, luckily i have one down the road. I paid 4.16 inc VAT for the driveshaft seal which is inclusive of a 10% discount. For the brass lock ring i paid £11.44 inc VAT also inclusive of a 10% discount. I will be installing this next week.

Wow. That's a lot of crud for those mileages. Mine has done 178k and I've never got round to doing this. Will do this when I change the Cambelt at 180k. I do abt 4-5k a month and have put 100k on it in 2 and half years and so far the only things that needed changing are front wheel bearings, shocks, shock mounts, stub shaft and rear calipers. Oil changed every 6-7k with quantum platinum everytime. Will be interesting to see how dirty my galaxy's manifold and egr valve are.

Hi, I have been a member for a few months but this is my first ever post. I own a ford galaxy 2005 1.9TDI 115 manual and have a problem with the front and rear window heaters; they do not switch on when the buttons are pushed and not even the light illuminates on the buttons. However if i turn the blower dial to front window then it switches the front window heater on automatically but i cannot switch this off (or on for that matter). I swapped the switches with the parking sensor switch (they are the same thing; essentially just an on/off switch) and they work perfectly fine illuminating and turning the sensors on/off but they will not function the window heaters. I have checked and rechecked the fuses but the fuses are fine and i have poked my head around the battery connections and cannot see anything wrong there either. I did have one of the AC pipes replaced a few months ago and to be honest the problem has been since then but the technicians claimed its unrelated. Could this be a relay issue or is it a wiring issue? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.