westytwo

I think I have finally fixed my power problem/noisey engine, after changing the MAF, all the vacuum hoses including the one in the ECU, cleaning the EGR and replacing the fuel filter, its looks like the problem was a split wire! The wire in question is connected to a white block on the lower part of the diesel injection pump. The wire which comes off the sensor runs very close to the auxilary belt tensioner harmonic balancer cam (the big silver coloured thing in front of the injection pump). It seems that the wire has been touching the cam and as the cam rocks with the movement of the belt it has worn through the brown wire to the white sensor block thing. I think this sensor might have something to do with the injection timing cause my galaxy sounded like a tank and had no power. Anyway there was just enough wire coming out of the sensor to get a block connecter on. After putting everything back together the engine is now loads quieter and I have constant power/boosting. Jobs a good un, :D just the alternator clutched pulley to change and the bodywork to tackle now. Galaxy diesels are not just a car they are a hobby!!!!! ;)

No I have not got a VAGCOM lead yet, gonna get one off ebay. Any ideas which lead I need? Is checking the timing much of a job? I changed a cambelt on a VW Caddy once and it was never the same again LOL!!!

They usually rev them up hard if they had a high reading or if its been ticking over for a long period the actual test only requires one rev up to 4000 then release not hold it there if its borderline may need to repeat. My local MOT station has a disclaimer warning that it is owners responsibility to ensure cambelt is in good condition and oil level correct before having smoke test. If the belt has only done 10000 I would firstly check the tension on that belt as this is quite critical, if its been fitted to loose it will strip or jump teeth, if its to tight it will whine. Is the bubbles in the line from the tank or the return? The bubbles are definetely coming from the tank. I have checked the fuel line from the tank and it does not appear to have any drips, I would have thought that if the fuel pump can suck air in through a crack while the engine is on, then diesel would seap out when the engine is off wouldn't it?????

Hello all, About a month ago I resolved my boosting / power loss problem. It turned out to be the small pipe inside the ECU which had become brittle. After this was fixed it was like driving a different car and I no longer had the issue of artics overtaking me on hills. However I recently had the car MOT'd since this has been done the engine is very noisy compared to before, it now sounds like an early 90's Transit and again I have no power, just before the MOT the galaxy had just done a 4 hour drive back from Cornwall. I have heard that when diesels are MOT,d they have to be revved hard prior to the emissions test being done is this true and if so is it possible that the timing belt may have slipped a tooth which is causing the problem? The cambelt was replaced about 10000 miles ago. I have also noticed that if you hold the revs at around 2000rpm you can see lots of air bubbles travelling through the clear fuel pipe is this normal? I replaced the diesel filter and rubber O ring less than a month ago. The galaxy is a 110 bhp afn engine.

Just out of interest where did you get a new pulley from and how much was it? Mine is due for a change!!

How difficult is it to remove the Ecu from a 1999 1.9 tdi? I have replaced the vacuum hose to the Ecu but that was not easy due to access. I know need to replace the internal hose inside the Ecu. What holds the Ecu in place and is it difficult to remove? Do you need to remove the whole dash? Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Hi, did that cure your problem when you replaced the internal hose???

Hi Mark, Did you have to remove your dash to get the ECU out? I have replaced all hoses to including the 1 to the ECU but not the internal 1 inside the ECU. It looked like a hell of a job to remove the ECU! How is the ECU fixed to the car is it bolted? Replacing the hose to the ECU was a mission lol! ,but i reckon that might to cure my problem my symptoms are the very similar to yours.

The pipe runs along the bulkhead from left to right as you stand at the front of the car. Remove your scuttle plate (the big plastic thing that spans the width of the engine bay and goes under the wiper mechanism) there should be 3 10mm bolts holding it in place 1 on the left, 1 on the right and 1 in the middle. You wont believe how much more access this gives you. The pipe comes off the bulkhead to the front of the engine onto a solid plastic pipe (black) which drops down onto your turbo intercooler. There will also be a sensor attached to this plastic hose with a wire coming off it so you should be able to identify it. Hope that helps and hope that cures your problem, it did not help on mine but its worth trying.

Will take a photo when its light. Think the wire was all black and about 1 mm in size. Standard size spade connection on the end of it.

I have a female spade connection which is not connected to anything. Its location is at the front of the engine and it seems to be in the same wiring bunch as the wires that go to the oil pressure sensor. Should it be connected to something?

Does anyone know where the needle lift sensor is on a 110 bhp AFN diesel engine as I need to check the associated wiring to the sensor, thanks.

Hi where is the needle lift sensor? Is it on the 3rd injector? Did you have total power loss or did you occasionally get full power? Thanks for your help.

Hi Westytwo usually Vag-com does not detect a fault with a MAF, but the way to check is to disconnect the plug from the MAF and if car runs better then it is the MAF If there is no difference its not the problem. You have not said what the symptoms are, but I had one go on a Fabia (same idea) I removed it from the car, and blew it out with a air-line and refitted it and has been ok since ( I might have been lucky, but cheap enough to try) Radiotwo The problem is intermittent boost with a permanent loss of power, replaced all vacuum hose to the turbo actuator etc and removed and cleaned the egr valve. I have replaced the Maf with a new bosch one, only thing is the new maf has a different code number on it and looks different internally, someone on the forum said they fitted 3 new ones before they got one that worked!

Does anyone live in the Staffordshire area and own a VAGCOM they could stick on my Galaxy to check for fault codes? Also is there any way of checking to see if a MAF is faulty, I have replaced mine but someone has suggested that the new one may also be faulty?

Did you remove and clean yours yourself I have heard its quite a task? When yours was sticking did you notice if you had any movement on your actuator arm?? Because I do which makes me think the vanes are opening and closing??

Are u sure the new maf is not faulty? We went through about 3 or 4 before we found one that worked. Do you have access to a full vag com? I might take it back to euro car parts and see if they will exchange it for another one and try that. The one that I got has a different part number to the one I took off and looks slightly different but I looked on the Bosch website and the new one is just an updated version. I dont have access to Vagcom do you live anywhere near Staffordshire lol. Its frustrating when you try things and they dont work!

I have a 99 plate 110 bhp diesel, and have the dreaded power loss. I vary rarely get boost but when I do the engine only revs to 3000 rpm and then its like a switch has been flicked. I have replaced the MAF, all the small vacuum hoses to the actuator, boost solenoid etc but still have not cured it. I can see the actuator arm moving up and down when you rev the engine, so if the boost control solenoid was faulty would the actuator arm still move?? I have read lots of threads about people who have the same problem however all the other people who have the same problem seem to be able to turn there engine off and on and power is restored this does not happen on mine. I can turn the engine off and on numerous times and still have no power. I seem to get power when the car feels like it help!!!

Yes had power loss. turned out to be the maf after all. I didnt know until i got a full version of vag com that let me use testing block to see the expected and actal air flow rate. Had no problems with the engine shutting off. I did expect to have to stall the car when i took it out but 4 years later and has never had a problem. Dont know if it regulates fuel but i would doubt it as it stems to be on or off... Okay cheers back to the drawing board!!!

Cheers for that my symptoms are a little different then my galaxy starts no problem and idles well but just has intermittent power loss, back to the drawing board??

Cheers for that, did you have power loss when yours was playing up? does it shut the fuel off when you turn the engine off or does it regulate the amount of fuel getting to fuel pump aswell??

I have power loss, tried all the usual stuff Maf sensor replaced, all small vacuum hoses replaced to turbo actuator etc, egr valve removed cleaned checked refitted, turbo actuator checked for movement that was okay. Jayton had a similar problem with his GTD and it turned out to be a loose connection to the fuel stop solenoid on his car so I thought I would check this next. I dont neccessarily want to change it just check the wire to it.

Does the cable go to thefront of the fuel pump, when it broke contact did you just lose power or did the engine cut out altogether? thanks for your response I will get to the bottom of this mystery if its the last thing I do lol!!