rushy

Hi guys, My 96 V6 gal has an annoying knocking noise coming from somewhere within the front suspension/steering area. The noise can be heard when going over even the slightest bump. Tried, with the help of a chap at work, to locate the noise by turning the steering wheel left to right with the engine OFF, we then seemed to track it down to either Strut top mounts (Drivers side seems to move more than passengers) or knackered rack. Reasons for thinking these is as he was turning steering wheel, I held onto the strut, which seemed to vibrate slightly, then grabbed track rod, which seemed to vibrate more. There dosen't seem to be any play in the TRE ball joints, and I replaced the drivers side not long before Xmas as the ball joint was shot totally. At first I suspected ARB links, but they seem ok. Please help!!

I'm looking for a decent air filter and exhaust for my VR6. Got overtaken by a very nice sounding Golf VR6 earlier and I quite fancy having the Gal sounding the same!!! Will a filter for a Golf VR6 fit my Gal?? Where can I get a sporty sound exhaust?? Thanks

Have changed the track rod end but nothing has changed. Still a knocking noise and hasn't even gone away slightly. The reason I think the top mounts have gone is because when the car is jacked up at the front, if you try a pull back and forth on the shockers from under wheel arch, there seems to be some play. If I have the car on the flat and bounce up and down to try and replicate speed humps and bumps, there's no noise!!! If I have the car static but with engine running, there's a slight knock if you waggle the steering wheel slightly. Any ideas as the sound is doing my head in!!!

Jacked front up this morning and gave the wheels a wiggle, left to right and top to bottom. LH seems fine, RH theres a lot of play coming from trackrod end, and when I'm moving wheel left to right, you can hear the knocking noise. Thanks for your advice, am going to try and fit the new TRE at somepoint today or tomorrow.

Having just read the post about water in ps footwell I thought I'd ask about my water invasion. After heavy rain, I find a puddle of water in the drivers footwell, do I look at the same things mentioned for passenger side?? Also, again after a heavy downpour, when I turn, or brake, water seems to come from by the sunroof switchs and drip down. Am I looking at a dodgy sunroof seal? Thanks in advance

Hi guys, My gal has developed a couple of knocking noises, but wish to find out if what I think the probs are are common and easy to sort. First off, I changed the drop links about 5 months ago, so I know it shouldn't be them. Noise one seems to be coming from passenger side top susspension mount?? Noise two seems to be coming from drivers side track rod end. Today, I got my misses to waggle the steering wheel from side to side with the engine on to try and locate the noises, hence why I think they are coming from the places I mentioned. Both noises are evedent when driving, but are more irretating and promenent when driving at slow speeds. The noise from passenger side has been doing it for a couple of weeks while drivers side started on friday night. Any help would be great. Thanks

Got it fitted last night and runs a treat. My VR6 (N reg) has air-con but when I spoke with VW they said that it should have belt with ribs one side only?? Thats what I've fitted.

Took the ali block thing off, turns out that is the alternator belt tensioner. The pully has completely disintergrated, and it's bearing is what the belt was running on, but that has also seazed solid!!! New one will hopefully (if it's been collected) be fitted tonight.

I was driving my Gal (2.8 V6) to work this morning when there was a horrible sort of metal on metal grinding noise. Had a look at the motor and the noise is coming from a cast ali housing that I've been told has a tensioner pulley in. Closer inspection (putting fingers in) reveals that there is a lump of plastic wedged in the ali block thingy. (possibly a bit of broken pulley??) Also, when looking from drivers side of engine, the pully below this ali block doesn't seem to exiat anymore, the belt just looks to be running on what I can only describe as being like a bearing out casing??!! Also, I've been told that whenever the belt was fitted, the wrong one was fitted!! The one fitted started life with groves on both sides, now the groves are only on one side due to the other side being worn away. My question is, is this an easy job to do as I had to borrow a car to get home from work and am planning on getting the old girl back on her feet tomorrow night. Cheers guys

Read my post "clutch stuff" I had similar problems with tempermental clutch. It's had new master, and slave cylinder, also new clutch, the problem is still there. Fitted new resevoir cap today, problem still there!! On further investigation, the resevoir only has one plastic lug holding it onto the master cylinder, therefore it can move around letting fluid out and air in!! I'll be fitting this tomorrow, and if that doesn't cure it, the only thing left to replace on the entire clutch system is the pipes!!!!!!!!!! Not bad having only had the Gal 6 weeks!!!!

Should say in the owners manual I think. If not, I'm sure the rule is that whatever is being towed (trailer plus load) cannot weigh more that the weight of the tow vehicle. I guess that the weight of the your vehicle should be in the back of the manual.

Damn it!!! Thought I'd cracked the problem. I'll fit the new cap and see what happens, hopefully it isn't a faulty slave or master cylinder seeing as that's the whole reason it went it and both were replaced!!

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!! Have bled system twice!!! Each time the pedal has been very good, untill about twenty mins later where it starts going soft again!! Have now traced the problem, having been worried about leaking fittings or a hole in the pipe, back to the resevoir cap!! When the pedal is pressed or de-pressed, air can be heard being sucked in, and it's possible to see bubbles coming out. Ordered one today from Fraud!! who told me that there has been problems with the caps (Mine Gal being a 96 2.8V6) and there had been a recall on them (having recently bought the car I wouldn't know if mine was affected or recified) So there we go boys and girls, hopefull an end to cluch pumping!! I must get down the gym to work the muscles on my right leg now!!!!!!!

The ez-bleed i've got, you just fill with fluid, replace the resevoir cap with the cap of the ez-bleed, attach pipe to an inflated tyre, release bleed nipple then hey presto!! Where 'bouts am I looking on a '96 2.8 V6 for the bleed nipple?? Cheers guys and sorry for repeating the thread, my computer went off on one!!!

Recently had a new clutch. master and slave cylinder fitted to my gal. This was due to a knackered slave cylinder, I was having to pump the clutch pedal like mad to get any pressure, on long journeys it was common to lose the pedal completely, have to pull over, pump the pedal then carry on. When I picked the car up, the "transmision expert" said that for a while I would have to continue to pump the pedal whilst everything beds in and the system self-bleeds itself. Is this correct? seems that a quick go with an EZ-Bleed would do the trick?? Cheers

Can anyone shed some light?? Just recently had new clutch, master & slave cylinder fitted to my Gal. Before she went in, every so often the clutch would go, I'd need to pump the pedal like there's no tomorrow to build up pressure. Got it back and was told by "transmision expert" to take it easy for a while and continue to do what I'd been doing (pumping pedal) for a while until the clutch system had self bled itself. Is this correct? He's shown me the old parts, so I know that replacements have been fitted, it was also a warranty job. Just seems wierd that the clutch would continue to require pumping so as not to lose the pedal completely if all was new. Surely the system could be bled with something like an ez-bleed?? Cheers

The seller comes from essex, need more be said! Go on, bid for them, then book your Gal in for custom Burbury paint job to really get the chav effect!!

Does the same apply to a drivers window that sometimes works fine, othertime not at all?? Ps. Great and very informative site!!

Sorry to bring up an old thread. Just read about the anti-roll bar drop links causing the knocking noises. Mine also knocks when going over bumps, what do I need to do to anti-roll bar links?? Replace?? Thanks

Sorry, In my confusion, when I've said "roof bars" I've meant the roof rails that some have fitted as standard!!! I'm sure you all knew that though!!!!!

Many thanks for info all. I managed to find out PCD and offset today, am now contemplating a set of alloys off an Audi S4. I've been told by a friend at Yokohama that the tyres fitted to the Galaxy are re-inforced to accomodate carrying extra passengers. Has anyone else heard this?? It may pose a problem when getting tyres for new rims?? How do the roof bars fix?? Is it a case of removing the head lining?? Cheers

Hi, I've just bought a 96 N Galaxy 2.8 V6 and have a few queries...... It doesn't have roof bars. Can you buy, fit roof bars? If so, how hard are they to do? What sort of Ford alloy fit the galaxy?? ie Mondeo, cougar etc??? Also, what sort of styling is available for the Galaxy?? I'm still a boy racer at heart and fancy trying to make the Galaxy look a bit different without having to spend too much cash!! Any help or tips you have would be gratfully recieved. Rushy www.rushymotorsport.co.uk

Hi all. I've just bought a 96 N reg Galaxy 2.8 V6 GLX and am trying to get to grips with the various bits on it. I also can't seem to get the CC to work. I've read the manual and done what it says with regards putting the switch to "on" and pressing "set" when at the desired speed, but it doesn't work. Is there a reset button, or do I trace wires etc as mentioned earlier?? Many thanks