ninjakev

A pair of high quality Thule 869 Rapid-System Aluminium Aero roof cross-bars with Thule 757 Rapid Foot Packs for sale; these are the ones with the adjustable rubber clamps/jaws for fitting to integrated roof rails such as fitted to Galaxies and Audi estates, etc. Only 3 years old and had very little use All that lot would cost at least

For sale, now our trusty Ford Galaxy is no longer part of the family This is a German-made Speedbuster tuning kit for the Volkswagen/Audi/Seat 1.9 litres PDI turbodiesel range of engines - it just so happens our 2003 Galaxy was essentially a rebadged VW Sharan and had the VW/Audi engine. This will only fit the "Pumpe-Deusse" unit-injector engines and not the newer common rail types This kit increased power from 130 to nearly 160 bhp and torques from 285 to about 350 NM - the difference to in-gear roll-ons was amazing; instead of changing down to 5th to overtake someone, it could be left in 6th and a wee squirt of throttle would give better results and this in a car weighing far more than a Golf or Audi saloon. Unbelievably it also improved our average fuel consumption by a minimum of 10 mpg even when driven "spiritedly" and could be made to give us over 60 mpg at a steady 60 mph without any detriment to driveability. We had this kit on the car for over 50,000 miles and it ran as sweet as a nut, with the added bonus that it was producing two-thirds less smoke during the MOT smoke tests. (It could also light up the front tyres in 3rd gear on a damp road ) As I say, this is totally tried and tested, it's plug and play and can be fitted in 30 minutes - no messing with laptops at all. Looking for

Your remote fob is worn out - I had the same problem with my 2003 model; changing batteries didn't help, recoding the transmitter/reciever didn't help, the wee led was flashing but the doors weren't unlocking or locking. Inside the fob there are two white buttons on the circuit board - over time these become imprinted with the marks of the underside of the buttons you press on the fob, a sort of cross shape if you look inside the cover. Anyway, I tried a blob of superglue to raise the profiles of the white buttons, but this was a failure. Had to fork out

I recently changed the batteries in my fob, and although it took quite a bit longer than 15 seconds, my fob has not had to be reprogrammed :D

Stevie I take it you already had the flywheel recall done and it was the recall repair flywheel which was faulty? Can you tell me how much it was to get all that work done?

Jeez, not even a single reply yet.......................surely someone must know something ;)

Can anyone tell me which temperature sensor controls the engine glowplugs, and more importantly, where it is located - this is the last thing i have to check in the saga of my poor cold starting. Thanks.

Stevie, if you ever find out the cause can you let me know please. Mine's been doing this for some time now even after changing the glowplugs and the glowplug relay.

I have just replaced the glowplug in my 53 plate Galaxy 130 TDI heater - would have been a straightforward job had one of the studs not sheared on the bracket. All-in it took me 2 1/2 hours and there was no requirement to reset any fault codes. I got the new glowplug from the local VW dealer for

Whereabouts is the temperature sensor for the glowplugs, and can anyone tell me if it's only used for the glowplugs and nothing else, ie not the temperature gauge. I'm still having bother with starting first thing in the morning and it's worse during the colder weather. I've replaced the glowplugs and the glowplug relay.

I decanted small amounts into a 100ml clean glass bottle and managed to get my huge hands at the reservoir by taking the plastic engine cover off aswell. It's fiddly, but the safest way. I suppose a visit to a friendly farm vet might get you a huge syringe to use which would be easier still :wacko:

As the title says, where is the glow plug relay and is it easy to get to. Do they cause problems ie do they suffer with high resistance contacts after a while? My chuggy starting probs are still not resolved and I thought I'd change the relay to see if that improves things.

Spanners for the rear caliper bolts, cant remember the exact sizes but 19 & 15 ring a bell. The only allen bolt is the one that locates the disc on the hub. And I'd recommend copper slip on the rear face of the pads regardless of wether they have a composite pad on them. Belt & Braces, you only want to do the job once and brake squeal is bloody annoying. 13mm and 15mm - I know, I just had to strip down the caliper and free-off the piston in my o/s rear caliper as it was binding. The dust seal had popped out some time in the past and grime had got in. BTW the dust seal is a real pain in the butt to get back on :D It is a 10 mm spaniard for the bleed nipple iirc. Another thing I didn't have a wind-back tool, so very carefully used a small pair of hens-legs on the pad end of the piston to wind the piston back in. Worked a treat. :lol:

The fizzing is coming from within the engine bay forward of the passenger seat area - I agree it may be caused by the fuel pump spinning up when turning the key, but the fizz is very noticeable..............so much so it's what made me take notice of it only recently. The fizz dies down after a few seconds so I can't see it being arcing across the relay contacts, certainly not with a 12V circuit anyway. For peace of mind I'll check the relay. Merci.

Had that on ours - it was the gasket on the rocker cover, which unfortunately was not a simple job of replacing the gasket, ohhhh no. Had to get a whole new cover -

Righto...a bit of an update on the crap starting............ Due to work and moving house soon, I've not had a chance to take the car to get looked at, but the other day when turning the key to glowplug position I heard what sounded like fizzing - like when you crack open a bottle of pop. I turned the key a few times and each time there was a "fizz", but not as long as previously. After about 5 turns I started it, and it fired up pretty well.......it sounds like there is air getting into the fuel system from somewhere and this must be what is causing the "lean" start and smoke. Would anyone know what the cause could be? Could it be the fuel is draining back somehow, leaving a vapour bubble in the lines, and how exactly could the fuel drain back? Ta muchly.

Well, I changed the front discs and cleaned the calipers, etc and the brake shake has now gone. Will be interesting to see how long these ones last :lol: Thanks to all who replied with advice.

Thanks for the advice, but the discs and pads are barely a year old and have very little wear on them and show very little signs of rust. I guess I'll be taking them off and checking the mating surfaces. Still find it hard to believe they could warp so soon - they must be made of cheapo iron.

Will take it to the garage after I get home from offshore on Tuesday - the wife reports the wobble has become far worse in the 2 weeks I have been away. It can't be the brakes, the wife is not a hard-braker and the speed at which this has worsened leads me to think bushes or something joint-related.

Recently the Galaxy has been suffering from a bad dose of the shakes when braking steadily from 70 mph - the steering wheel shimmies and the whole car feels like it's made of jelly. More recently travelling at a constant 70 mph has the steering wheel shimmying too. There is no pulsing coming back through the brake pedal, and all front and rear discs and pads were changed about a year ago - they have covered about 8000 miles in that time. Below about 40 mph the wobble when braking is barely detectable. I know my drop links are probably needing renewed - there is a creak coming from the front when pulling away, and the car was only serviced last month (50,000 mile service) but what are the chances the source of the wobble is bush-related? Surely my front disks can't be warped already?

Hi folks, My Galaxy Ghia heater controls really piss me off - it's the auto climate control btw. The fan has a mind of it's own and when set to "ECON" and say 17 degC the fan speed is continually being set down to low (1 or 2 bars on scale). If I increase the fan speed to max, a few seconds later the unit has gradually lowered the fan speed again to minimum. After repeating for 3 or 4 times, finally the fan remains where it's been set - is this normal?

Funnily enough when ours was in for a 50,000 service last week the dealer said there was a bad oil leak in the turbo area. Fearing the worst I was about to phone the bank to remortgage for a new turbo, but it turned out the seal on the rocker cover had failed - this can't be repaired as the seal is integral with the rocker cover (so they informed me) and so I was

littledaz, I have no way of checking for any fault codes.... I did a comparison of the new glowplugs before fitting them and all four were 0.8 ohms. To be honest the old ones looked fine visually too, if a little sooty. If I repeat the key on key off procedure on every cold start it does start better, as it does when I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds after glowplug lamp is off before firing it up. The misfire at start is more of a diesel rattle, it runs a bit rough like this for maybe 10 seconds, almost like it's only running on 3 pots, accompanied by blue/grey smoke - definite incomplete combustion or overfuelling. This only occurs during the very first start of the day and also if the car has been used early in the day, left at work and then started on leaving work - say 8 hours later There is no loss of coolant - I checked that too. I was going to locate the glowplug relay and give it a check but haven't got round to that yet! I will check the voltage at the busbar tomorrow and report my findings. It does not smoke unduly under hard acceleration or high load - I've even got her indoors to drive it and I've followed on the motorbike :) Thanks for taking the time folks, this is bugging me now. Kev

Might it be a leaky injector then, dripping fuel into the cylinder overnight after a prolonged (8 hrs plus) period with the engine off? Is there residual pressure left over in the fuel rail when the engine is shutdown which would cause this phenomenon?