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Ford Galaxy Owners Club

Munter

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Everything posted by Munter

  1. Hi Woody, Yea, we checked the boots when we checked the wheel bearings. They looked fine.
  2. Hi Guys, I have a 53 plate 1.9 TDi 130 Galaxy. I drove it to Manchester airport last Saturday in some of the worst rain and flooding I've seen in a while. Anyway, on my return to the car on Thursday I noticed a metallic rotational grinding noise that gets worse when turning around a left hand corner (loading the drivers side wheel) and with speed. My first thought was the drivers side wheel bearing had gone. On inspection I think the wheel bearings are fine. No movement or grinding. Could this be the worn stub, half shaft issue? It can be quite clunky through the gears and on the throttle. Its almost done 120k
  3. Does anyone have a definitive Bosch part number for this pump? I did see in the other thread a part number but that was posted in 2006 so just wanted to check if it is still current! (Mk2 53 Diesel)
  4. Thats one hell of a long sentence Chris!!
  5. Wow, mines done 110k so could prolly do with a clean too. Any pictures on where this is located?
  6. Would still be interested in the label file...
  7. OK, its Sorted!! Figured out thanks to the hint from Mirez that the Bonnet open switch is faulty. See the attached screen shot from VAG-Com, I have labeled up each "Cell" in group 2 and 15, these contain the Open or Closed states for Doors, Bonnet and Boot. The Bonnet switch was fixed in a state of "Open" meaning the alarm was constantly sounding and the indicators would not flash when armed. I removed the switch completely leaving the wires loose, this has made the controler think the bonnet is closed, allowing the indicators to flash and the alarm to work correctly! Will now get a replacement switch. Thanks for all the advice guys.
  8. Thanks Mirez, Checked VAG-COM again and I can see "Door Open" & "Door Closed" in block 02 as the attached screen shot. Only the last 2 sections change when I open or close doors, the first 2 sections are "Not Oper.". I checked Block 5 but could not make any sense of what I was seeing as there are no lables for what each section is telling me.
  9. UPDATE: Checked VAG-Com today and no faults have been reported other than a fault on the fuse for the horn (which I know about cause I removed to to stop the horn sounding every 30 mins). I took the drivers door handle off to find the actual barrel is seized or faulty. It will not move even when out of the car. I checked again all dorrs to make sure they are locking... which they do.. other than checking every door sensor and wiring I'm at a loss. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a new barrel for the lock?
  10. Thanks guys. I checked all the doors actualy lock when i press the keyfob and they do. But like I said the drivers door keylock does not move at all. I will check VAG-Com tomorrow and see if I can get a repair kit for the lock. Thanks for the replies.
  11. Forum back up... phew was starting to actually talk to the wife!! ANyway update on this, the alarm now randomly goes off for no reason. I have had to remove the fuse to stop it annoying the neighbours. Also, I just found out the door lock does not work. I insert the key but it will not turn...
  12. Hi, I tried the search but could not find anything specific to this.. My indicators used to flash when locking the car with the key fob. Today I noticed they did not flash so unlocked the car and tried again... no flash but the car did lock. I also notice the LED on the drivers side is flashing differently than it did. Any ideas please? I have VAG-com, would this be something I could fix with it? Its a Galaxy 2003 Tdi Ghia 130bhp
  13. I'm up for renting this too! I also heard you can change the lighting on the clocks so they flash on and the needles move when you turn ignition on. Is it also true you can turn the horn on when you remotely lock the car so it gives a little reassuring beep?
  14. I use Comma 505.01 oil too.
  15. I'm sure I read someplace that the flashing is telling you the gas pressure is too low. Do a search and you should find it.
  16. i thought i only had 1 water pump, shows what i know. Where is this aux pump some where nice and easy to get to. (i bet not) cheers dave ahh scratch that then i assumed you had the TDi!!
  17. The aux water pump gone maybe?? This would mean the water is only being pumped around fast enough when the engine is running faster. Slow the engine and the water slows...
  18. Check all the connections, sounds to me like the body shop may have disturbed them while doing th repair. As above, Vag-COM will tell you which one is faulty. Let us know where you are as many of us have vag-com and are willing to help.
  19. I would still replace the glow plug. It only takes a couple of hours and once you have it stripped you can check and clean the combustion chamber too. Cheaper than buying a new unit.
  20. this is the one i use on my Gal 53 TDi http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-409-1-KKL-VAG-CO...178464334619854
  21. Where would you like the engine to be then?? B)
  22. E-bay. There is a guy on there selling 2 for
  23. Yes, sounds like its the same as my 2003 tdi. I found th easiest way is to... Remove the exhaust and air intake pipes Loosen the 2 bolts holding the frame togeather Unplug the electrics (the hardest part for me!) remove the 4 bolts holding the frame to the car Once thats done you should find with a little bit of twisting about the unit will drop down. Just watch the fuel pipe as on mine it seemed to be somewhat tangled in the frame.
  24. I had this error on VAG-com also (after repairing a broken wire on the aux-heater). Repeated flame outs. Today I replaced the glow plug which cured the problem, my aux-heater now works. As a test, once I had removed the old glow plug I hot-wired it to a leasure battery and it worked! This put serious doubts in my mind as to wether it was acutally the glow plug that was at fault. Being as I had no other choice I installed the new plug and tried it anyway. It fixed the problem although I still do not understand why I was getting flame out errors with the original plug. Maybe the controller does not pass a full 12-14v to the plug, so it worked when I did but would not get hot enough with the voltage the controller passes through it? Anyway, I would change the plug first before doing anything else.
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