ncb

Yes. I have a mk2 52 plate and have just plugged the vacuum hose going to the egr valve (ford zetec ,method). No engine lights so far after a year. I beleive egr's are probablt good for up to 50k miles. After this as they start to clog up, they cause more problems than they solve. This is ok for manufactures as they dont want you driving any car past its warranty anyway.

Blockage- YES @ pollen filter. It is a B*^%H to change and so most commonly get neglected. Get it changed and may the force (of air) be with you. See faq on pollen filter change. Not for the faint hearted.

Shouldnt casue any errors. If you have the AHU engine, check the little vac pipe going to the ecu. Infact just change it as its not expensive. Dont forget to carefullly open up the ecu and change the short length inside as this also tears. Also change all other vac pipes especially the one to turbo actuator.

CCV line is the short black pipe that goes from the top of the rocker cover to the air intake pipe. If you pull one side of the pipe off, check it for clockages by starting the engine and see if air is blowing out.

Extremely dissapointed to say the least. Good points - its spacious and nice to drive but thats it. Bad points - Rattly Heavy on fuel Seats are very very heavy to take out. Whats the point in making easily removable seats if there so dam heavy? 2 furthermost rear seats are too close together. Only easy for small kids. Very hard to do any maintenace on the car e.g. could they not have placed the relay panel somewhere more convenient? Definately needs a prayer to start and run daily Parts changed/fixed in 1 year and 5000 miles of ownership:- MAF Front and rear calipers seized EGR stuck Air intake blocked Turbo vanes sticking giving limp at 3000 revs Driveshaft Water in footwell, washer leaking at joint Washer pipe to motor in rear tailgate keeps coming off Seized handbrake cable (right hand) Gear lever needed adjusting to use reverse 2nd gear dificult to engage Reverse switch Centre and Rear Exhaust 2 coolant pipes leaked Driver door speaker sometimes cuts out The only reason I am tolerating these amount of faults is that I have done all the work myself. Oh yes, and God bless Ebay.

It seems like the classic turbo vanes sticking thing. Error code should say something like "postive boost pressure deviation" or similar. If so, you need to take the turbo off and give the vanes of the turbo actuator a good scrubbing. Check the vacuum, vac pipes and N75 valve are working fine first as taking the turbo off is a BIG job.

Why did you change the turbo and egr? If the turbo was really knackered, you may have lots of oil in your intercooler that getting burnt now when you push it. If the egr was really blocked, your air intake will be blocked somewhat as well. Its a real pig of a job to take off although if any mechanics worth his salt, he (or she) should have cleaned that too when the turbo and egr was off. On the same note, a choked CCV line can cause blue smoke too because the engine cant breathe. On really high mileage tdi's the one way valve on top of the rocker cover for the ccv can fail stpping the emgine breathing properly. LAstly the cat could be gone. Easy check for this is to disconect the eghaust just after the cat and see if it still smokes.

NOTHING is easy on this car. Absolutely nothing. Even changing a pollen filter involves taking off the wiper mechanism. For such a big car you would think it wuld have been easy to work on. I have more space to work in on my 3 door swift!!

Just got the centre section and back box rplaced with the cheapest ebay ones. The cheapie ebay ones I got from eternalcar were actually quite good. They weighed about just as heavy as the timax ones I took off. Also they were decently made with thick welding on all joints. They fittted perfectly, no leaks and didnt sound as if they were blowing or hollow like other cheap makes available locally to me. Thumbs up from me anyway.

Heh ZORGMAN. I have:- cleaned the inlet manifold, disabled egr, taken apart turbo to clean the vanes, done the ccv mod, checked for binding brakes, replaced the cat with a straight pipe AND renewed the exhausst, cleared any codes stored in cpu (and not getting any new ones) BUT still have shity, in my view, economy. ie 30mpg average, 38mpg tops on a ten mile motorway cruise. The only thing I can see in vagcom is the actual MAF reading is always double that of what is expected. Usually its the other way round. What does his mean? I hav been searching but cant find any answers. I have replaced the maf with a brand new genuine one but its still the same. WHAT CAUSES HIGH MAF READINGS AND COULD THUS BE A CAUSE FOR POOR ECONOMY?

OMG Are you telling me 40mpg is good and the sharan/galaxy will do a measly 30mpg in town? Thats what ive been getting and pulling my hair out over it. In previous searches, im sure peoples were getting much more. Infact 35 in town min and 45 average. Am I mistaken ? What are your typical mpg's and what style/type of driving id it doing.

MIREZ did you need 3 ltrs? how much did you need to put in?

The old centre section muffler part of the exhaust is cold for the bottom 2/3rd of the box and the top is a bit warm so I think it is blocked. I am getting low fuel economy which spurred me to investigate and find this out. Interesting thing is the garage took off the centre and back box off leaving only the front pipe and cat off too see if the economy would improve. The resulting noise is only a little louder noise than having the whole system on. I feel like leaving it off like this. :) Decided to take the cat out, ie de-cat the car when I fit the new exhaust. Anyway , the back section has been welded at some point and so I just ordered the cheap ebay centre and rear section exhaust hoping that at least those 2 bits will fit together. Shall let you know when it gets here. Cost =

Has anybody had any experience with the really cheap exhausts you get from ebay I need a centre and back box and it only works out about

Another way to clean the turbo is with a foaming oven cleaner like the mr muscle one. Idea is you take the downpipe off and squirt some in every couple of hours. Turning the turbo turbine round is helpfull too. So is koving the actuator up and down. I tried this but broke a stud off the turbo/downpipe mounting and so had to take the whole turbo anyway.

I would second that idea. Replace the cat with a straight pipe as the cat will be satuarted with oil and will do more harm than good now. The cat doesnt do much for diesels anyway. i have taken the cat out of many diesels and havent had an emissions fail yet. After this, Just drive the dam car. Especially some motorway driving is needed. Go see some relatives far away. Say in 5th gear if its a six speed gearbox or fourth if it is a five speed box. This will warm the exhaust up good and the high flow of gasses will blast or burn out any oil. Only if after many miles of driving that you think there is still clouds of smoke still behind you, or you have failed an emissions test, then think about changing the exhaust. Even if you drill holes in the exhaust to let the excess oil out, the insides of the exhaust sections are still covering in oil and would need to be burned off. In any case, you will be wiping oil off the tailpipe end for weeks and weeks later.

Mine did it too. Taken the turbo off this week to clean clean clean. What a job and 3 halfs it was removal and fitting. Every job i do on this car seems to get harder and harder to do. First was the pollen filter which is bad enough having to remove the wipers. Second was the air intake which I have scars in my memory. Now the turbo. Even when cleaning the vanes, the varnish stuff was really welded on. Spent 4 hours scraping and scaping. Put it all back together and voila - STILL LITTLE TURBO POWER !!?! Checked actuator movement and now there definately is some better movement. Checked the vacuum from the resovoir and it seems weak. Also when you remove the vac pipe from the resovoir ball there is only a small PSSST. So my theory is that the vacuum system weakens somewhere either through a hole or via a faulty n75 valve and this causes less turbo movement and lets the soot to build up. Now I have to go and find the vacuum problem. Question - When i have the bonnet open and switch off the engine, after a few seconds i hear a pop noise which is the actuator of the turbo jumping back to its position. Is this normal?

Im tellin ya its the alternator pulley. Easy to check. Take the auxillary belt off by loosening the tensioner and then start the car and rev. No noise. Infact spin the pulley by hand in both directions (with engine off) and you should hear some sort of strange noise indicating failed or noisy pulley. Best done when the engine is cold. Luckily the pulleys are changible separately and you dont need to fork out for a whole new alternator.

Mine was just a hex head that i ha as part of a cheapo laser kit of 5 bits. Not sure about buing it from hellfrauds but just using the link to show you the picture. Usefull bit of kit as you get 10 sizes for a cheap price. No spline keys tho

First thing you need to check is if the tubo actuator is moving. On the pd you cant see it directly. You need to jack up the car or drive it onto some ramps or bricks and go underneath. You still cannot see it directly and so need to use a mirror to help you see the actuator lever. Then have someone start the car and you should the actuator move. The full travel is 1 inch but even if you have a sticky turbo or dodgy vacuum system, you should still be able to see the lever move about half an inch. If you see movement, I would start to look elsewhere as the main problem and not at the turbo or vacuum system. Second thing to check is BOTH the brake switches and the clutch switch. If you have vagcom, this is easy to check. My previous tdi had one of these switches faulty and the engine decided to stay in limp mode. Took me month to figure it out after changing all vacuum pipes, n75 valves, fuel filter and the accelerator pedal potentiometer. Third thing to check is the accelerator pedal potentiometer. They can also be checked easily via vagcom but the part rarely goes.

Is this the ASTON SUPER WRENCH? Looks like a bargain to me.

Yes blown turbo is not the end of the world but easy to change? NO NO NO. I have just taken to the turbo off my 115 tdi pd sharan and its the hardest job I have ever encountered working on this car. And I thought pulling the intake manifold off about a month ago was hard. To make matters worse, one of the studs that mounts the downpipe of the exhaust onto the turbo borke off. Took 1 day to remove, 1 day at machine shop to fix broken stud, and 1 day to refit. If you are lucky, labour costs alone would be at least

Well, I have finally decided to payout for the expensive gear oil VW part number G052171a2.

AMAZING. My car makes the same noise going up through the gears. My wife keeps asking me what the noise is and instead of giving her the technical answer, I too have always replied saying the car is laughing at us. Before forking out for gearbox clutches and flywheels, its seems like its coming from the clutch inside the alternator pulley. There is a thread here somwhere on how to check it. I'm 95% sure it is as the noise comes from the driver side somewhere and flywheel/clutch is on passenger side. Besides I have a brand new flywheel and clutch 2000 miles ago.