antzatgalaxy

If you do a web search, most battery sellers will have a search facility for make and model. Take the dimensions from several sites, then when you shop around you'll know the biggest that fits. Not all batteries are the same, read some of the blurb (calcium silver grid technology etc), but basically it all relates to how long the performance of the battery will last. The most important figure for you is the CA or CCA which is the cold cranking amps. This is the amount of sustained high load that battery can give to start the car. After that comes capacity (the two will have a loose relationship). For a Diesel, you'll need big numbers. The next most important figure is the price! I did quite well out of Kwik fit, they have an online quotation (cheaper than in store), then when I queried the CCA they recommended, they got me a bigger one, for the same price and I had 20% off, Came in about

So does the winch go into freewheel, when the wheel is in position? so you can't over tension the cable? On my Astra, it was just a straight forward bolt down to the carrier - a lot stronger, a lot more secure and a lot less to go wrong... Anthony

I gathered it was recirculated air, just not sure where the air intake is. The three floor vents all blow. I had assumed it might be from the rear compartment normally used to access lights (as this is grilled), but if I reach up in there I can feel a jet of (warm)air, which I assume is just pressure release from the main blower to the three floor vents. I normally have this compartment stuffed with my jump leads in a bag, so was worried about restricting air intake (as well as the out flow!) I'm not sure if you can overheat the unit, but I'm obviously giving it a good try !... I guess the fan resistor pack is in there somewhere? and that has a thermal fuse. Hoping to avoid this with a bit of understating/adaption. The handbook always instructs not to turn on the rear unit till the coolant reaches temperature. Never fully understood this, unless the assumption is that engine temperature is more important than my body temperature and turning it on will take heat from the coolant slowing the engine warming? If it was that important the switch should be latched to the ignition, so it turns off. In winter I tent to just leave it on, so forget when I've stuffed the boot full. Anthony

DTC333's Print out from the TIS is correct, but doesn't contain the attachments. They don't need scaling, just printed at 100% and cut out to use. I'll see if I can create a PDF from the TIS of the attachments. I'll add them later. In the mean time, here are some pretty pictures that will serve no purpose other than a check. You can use cheap insulation tape for the job, it will come off no problem, you can even save them if you create them with enough overlap of tape. Any glue marks, will wipe off with soap, water and not much elbow grease. Interestingly, they don't match the parts covered by the so called generic Eurolites masks (circular masks [with tail - not used on Galaxy], with instruction for every car under the sun) sold all over the place (mine were marked autocare TMX244). So I guess these generic ones are not suitable! I also have no idea why parts of the main beam appear to be masked from the TIS instruction. In any case, I can confirm that the beam pattern with the TIS mask is good and better and brighter (less covered) than the generic ones sold. Anthony

Yep, that would be my missing wheel, although I think a bearing noise would be more constant and speed related - not that I heard either. Although I can clearly describe the noise if you think you might have lost a wheel... :rolleyes::-) Is it definitely from outside/under the car? It's just it took me several weeks to track a noise to the loose jack in the rear compartment. I can sympathise thought as it is difficult to drive in straight line and climb around the car tracking a noise.... can you tell I'm paranoid now... Anthony

I found on mine that if the wheel wasn't lowered vertically down, or wound vertically up, the winch didn't move (but the socket bolt went into free wheel). I assumed that when wound fully up, the winch is disengaged (possibly by white plastic bit?) and this was happening because the cable was also pulling against the mechanism when not vertical. Found this out while lowering spare wheel and pulling it toward the back of car while dangling - and getting no where. Am I wrong? did you really manage to winch wheel up from behind the car, winch dragging wheel under car before raising it? If you did, I may have to take a closer look at mine (and reassess my thinking) as all might not be well.... Anthony

Can someone give me a detailed description of where the air is taken from and where the air blown to in the rear heater matrix before I start removing panels to find out. This is the blower behind panels in the rear wheel arch passenger side (heated by coolant [additionally heated by auxiliary heater when cold]). I'm asking about the heater matrix in the car, not the combustion air flow in the auxiliary heater beneath the car. There are three vents at ground level in the wheel arch panel that blow (is that all?), and I guess a small over pressure vent into the void behind this panel near the rear light access panel. The reason I ask is that I sometimes place a tarp in the rear and fill it up with stuff (removing kids first) and I've realised that these three vents become covered. Are they ducted or is it just flow from the void behind the panel (so flow will escape elsewhere)? Also where is the air intake? If I know this I can avoid damage (stuff getting sucked in) and work out if I'm likely to damage something by not turning it off. Many thanks Anthony

I'm running IE8 with XP, on a netbook. Not had any problems before. If it's working for you, then I'll hunt the issue down.... getting tedious having to search for things that are already listed in the FAQ... Thanks Anthony

I don't know why, but the FAQ links don't seem to be working for me. The links all seem to give an error. I can search for the items and find them that way, but that's not the point of the FAQ - Which is extremely useful. Is there something I need to turn on in explorer? or is there an link issue at the moment?

It's on my dry day list of things to do.... I'll only have to do the one side as the ones on the other side were replaced with the repairs. Should have done it with the shocks.... but was thinking more about getting car back on road (on four wheels!).

Just thought I would add this in case anyone stumbled across this problem of rear inner tyre wear. My rear tyres seemed to wear on the inside edge to the point where the outside looked absolutely fine, but closer (more difficult) inspection revealed the inner edge was wearing as the same rate as the set of front tyres. Which generally meant changing all four tyres each time. I noticed that the profile from behind did look like the wheels were closer at the top then the bottom, which would explain the wear. It also highlighted the importance of tyre pressure as lower pressure tyres would wear a lot quicker on the inner edge. Now here is what happened! While driving along the M4, I had the rear driver side wheel come off! This was due to the bearing failing. I didn't realise this until I pulled in (rather sharpish) as I though I had a a blow out. There was a bang and the definite feeling that the rear wheel had locked. In fact it had come off and folded into the body work which is why it was locked. As the bearing holds the wheel on, it was effectively dangling from the break calliper. Had it been the passenger side, I reckon it would have folded under the car when I was pulling in to the hard shoulder. Three things conspired to make this a gentle landing - The M4 had road works and I was doing 40mph, only the lane next to the hard shoulder was open, it was 10pm at night so not busy. In fact it was so undramatic that is didn't even wake three sleeping kids in the back. It could all have been so different, but best not to dwell.... There where a few points to note. There was no noise from the bearing before hand. I had to have the rear wish bone replaced (it does attach directly to body) as I couldn't guarantee it wasn't damaged and eventually I replaced the brake calliper as the pins must have been slightly bent as it started ceasing after. What I did note was that after all this work, the gait of the car was much improved. But I effectively only had one side done (although I replaced the pair of shocks). There is still tyre wear on the inside edge, but I get more miles to the tyres now. I also check (or get checked) the rear bearings at every opportunity. There is no adjustment to the rear wheels, but there is a company near me who do geometry and 4 wheel alignment (which I want done after the work carried out) with the clever use of special replacement parts (so no hydraulic ram). I haven't managed to get them to work on my car yet, as to do a proper job, they want the front track rod ends replaced first (perfectionists!) My worry was that the rapid wear in the inside edge should have made me look at the bearings before all this happened, or maybe the angle of the wheels lead to excess wear on the bearings? Still don't know? If anyone does, I would be pleased to hear.

Might not be relevant to the Mk1 but had a similar problem with the Mk2 so thought I would reply here in case anyone else was looking - before they start ripping door skins off. Rear door failed to open (from outside) - the cause was one of the kids trying to open at exactly the same time as the central locking was opening. With all the other doors able to open, this one didn't. Managed to get it operating again by sitting inside the car and pushing the handle (of the relevant door) into deadlock position and then locking and opening the car with the central locking. All back to normal. I will add that the door was in child lock position, so I still had to climb out through the front. Also - with inquisitive kids, it is possible for them to stick their finger into the door lock mechanism and operate the door lock while the door is open. Then when you slam the door, it buckles the catch into the lock. The Door appears closed but will actually just be jammed on the mechanism. A Good boot from inside will get it open so you can survey the real damage! Check kids for the one with the grease on finger. Alternatively the door bounces off the catch, in which case your lucky and you just need to use the door handle inside to get the catch back out so you can shut the door.

Galaxy 2006 (55 plate) 1.9TDi 115bhp Mine suffers from going into limp mode too, But only in the cold weather (last two winters) and with a cool engine. Diagnostic is Engine Code 17965: Turbo pressure control limit exceeded. Limp mode is reset by turning ignition off and on again, and like said before, not point in getting the code cleared as it doesn't change anything. Got used to resetting on the move the few times it happened. One thing I did note was that it stopped for a bit when I had the car serviced (which happens to coincide with the cold weather) which did include engine flush and conditioner and a diesel treatment (not very expensive). This made me rule out a vacuum leak, but before I could muster up the energy to investigate further, the weather would warm up and the problem go away. Of course I'm asking to have to fix this in the next snow fall.... Could be MAF or T-MAP but while it's working, difficult to pin it down.

I have a 55 Galaxy and was quite shocked to find the inside edge of the rear tyres VERY worn. It was practically impossible to see from any other angle other than the under side. If I hadn't been checking out the aux heater (many thanks to this site for sorting that one!), I honestly wouldn't have noticed with my usual check of the tyres (they looked great for the outside!). This means I got less than 10,000 miles out a set of REAR tyres! More annoying is that it is only the inner edge that has really worn, the other 70% of the tred is over 6mm. And it's not due to under inflation. I've had the tracking done now (or so they say!), but they can't adjust the Camber, which I think is responsible for this. Looking from behind the tyres both lean in at the top ( /--\ ). I've gleamed from a bit of web searching that this may be due to worn suspension parts, but I've also seen references to hydraulic rams !!! Is this type of wear normal, or where should I look first?

OK, People understandably seem to be having problems removing the glove box and have a few misunderstanding about the resistor/fuse. There is a thread on here somewhere with more information, I looked it up first time I did the job, but haven't searched for it lately. I'll try and clarify here from my own experience, and I'm willing to be corrected. I've got a RHD car, but I've tried to describe it generically. First removing the glove box. It's not technically difficult, but it is a little tricky and while it shouldn't cause any damage, there is a risk of breaking a plastic clip, if you are not careful. You have to be a little brave with your force and know where to place it. Open the Glove box. The glove box is first held in place by the side-stops (the bit that stops it opening any further). The side-stop nearest the passenger door goes through a "removable" panel. Actually this panel isn't that easy to remove (and it would be a delight if it was -and you may not have to, but I did). This little panel is held in place by three plastic clips, one at the top (nearest the corner in the panel) one on the side nearest the passenger door (about 3/4 down) and one at the bottom (between the hole for the stop and the corner)and you obviously can't see any of them. There is also a "fin" that locates into a slot half way down this panel to prevent it moving towards the drivers side. On the inside of the glove box, just above this panel is a square hole. If you can get a short screw driver in there, you might be able to push down the top clip and pull this little panel towards you (get a flat blade screw driver in there) opening enough of a gap to see down inside. You want to pull this panel down like it was hinged on the bottom, but the clip on the side prevents this. Pulling slightly to the centre of the car release this clip with a slight bending of this small panel, then you can lift this panel out by pulling up (as it is sitting on the bottom clip). Now the glove box is only prevented from opening any further by the stop on the other side. If you put your thumb on the stop as close to the stop as possible, slightly close the glove box and then push down on this stop and open the glove box, it should deform just enough to get the stop out (you might be lucky and find this works for the other side too so you don't have to go through removing the little panel). At this point continue to lower the glove box until you meet resistance. Then push gently down to continue opening the door and the hinge side should pop out and the door fall to the floor. While you are doing this, the flap inside the glove box attached to the dash board should also fall out as once you lower the door far enough, it springs up and can be removed. Now, all you can see of the resistor pack is the metal back plate and the green socket as the actual resistor is on the other side of this plate inside the air flow (to keep it cool). You will need a T-20 (star shaped bit) to undo the single screw holing the resistor pack in place, but first remove the plug from socket. When you have undone this screw, lift and swing out the resistor pack from the bottom where you undid the screw. When replacing the glove box, clipping the hinges back in at the bottom is a little tricky and I found using a long screw driver to reach in and apply pressure to the hinge pins to get then to clip back in was easier than applying pressure to the door itself. Maybe use a dry lubricant to help?. Total job time 30 minutes once familiar. Hope that helps.

Thought I would add this in case anyone stumbled across this post with a similar problem. For my none climate control model, I also noticed that when the resistor pack failed, the air con light goes out on the fan settings that still work (?!). I am not sure why this is. Usually when the resistor pack fails some or all of the fan settings stop working, although 4 (full on) should always work because this doesn't go through the resistor pack (only 1, 2 and 3 do). Having got my resistor pack out (green one) from behind the glove box, I had a quick test and concluded that it was the thermal fuse which had failed (continuity between pins 2, 3, and 4 but none to pin 1, open across the thermal fuse). So if all your setting go at the same time, it may well be the thermal fuse that has gone. If you're interested the thermal fuse is a little spring contact switch held closed by a pellet of melt-able material. So when it melts, it is not resettable. There is a company that actually repairs these resistor packs for about