antzatgalaxy

Just wanted to confirm (as I think that this was the original question), that 15" rims do not fit on the front of the galaxy MK2 due to brake assembly. I would not try and "resolve" this. You can get them on the back... but suggest, as others have, that this is not your ride issue.... Low profile tyres are fitted on 17" rims. Mine has 225/45R17 94Y XL on, though still wouldn't say they where quite the rubber band type... Wheels came with car... Like you I also have 15" rims in garage.... why can't I let go......

Hi, may as well replace run on pump if you've ordered it, but I managed to replace the brushes in mine with a set of ebay for peanuts. The dimensions of brushes and the repair is given in the FAQ. As you have to remove the pump anyway, it's not much further work. I'm pretty sure there is flow through the aux heater without the run on pump and that the Aux heater it is capable of regulating the temperature (flame), hence any reduced coolant flow would not matter - Happy to be corrected, but pretty sure it would work even if run on pump were completely removed (bypassed with a bit of copper tube). I'm saying this as during the period my run on pump wasn't working, I'm sure the aux heater carried on working. The White smoke is unburnt diesel, but it needs heating to produce this. You say the error codes doesn't return after clearing, but clearly it must at some point, or you don't have a problem with the code (historic?). Does the code return some time after running? Normally white smoke is associated with a flame out error code, which happens when the glow plug starts to fail. Glow plug fails to maintain ignition, fuel continues to be pumped in, aux heater shuts down with flame out error. I believe it takes three flame out errors before it shuts the aux heater down for good until code is cleared. Of course next time it ignites, there is excess diesel in the flame chamber (hence white smoke). To much of this and the whole unit eventually bungs up and will need a good clean out when you replace the glow plug. Replacing the glow plug is not such an easy job.... However, even without the Aux heater, the engine temperature will raise to normal temperature (needle straight up) within about 20 minutes if driving around, even in winter - (probably not if just left idling). So you may have further investigations ahead.... When you say the Aux heater fires up as normal, is the exhaust from the aux heater really hot? Might the lack of temperature difference between inlet and outlet pipes actually be because the Aux heater is not heating the coolant, rather than no flow?

Having just had the same problem on my Gal, I thought I'd add a further solution. On mine, the latch just wasn't latching - either when shutting or using a screwdriver with the boot open. I recalled from before I could use the screwdriver to simulate the post and latch the lock and then release the lock by lifting the boot handle. Now what I was finding was that with the boot shut, I could still lift the boot open and the alarm wasn't operating (i.e. it would lock all the doors, fail to arm and then open all the doors!). If I leaned on the boot hard enough I could make the alarm think it was closed and it would arm, but I could still lift the boot open - and the alarm would then go off. So if you can use a screwdriver to simulate the post, but can then still pull the lock open (i.e. it hasn't latched), then this may help. What I've discovered having removed the lock from the car is that the latch mechanism is contained within the lock, so you can't get to it because the lock is rivoted together. However, the manual release is visible at the back of the lock as an arm that sticks out. There are two arms, one is hooked up to the boot servo, it's the other one. You can unscrew and remove the servo to give more fiddle room (if you've removed the lock). If this release arm seems to be unsprung (freely moves back and forth), then the latch inside is stuck open. To remove the lock, follow FAQ's on removal of boot trim and undo the three torx screws around the lock mechanism on the outside and remove the lock from the inside. You can then unplug the connector and prise out the switch (careful as it is only held in by plastic nobbles, which are likely to break) to completely free the lock from the two cable sets. However, you may be able to avoid all of this and do it in situ from the outside.... Effectively the lock mechanism is held together by three rivots and all the moving parts rotate or move on these rivots posts. The latch mechanism rotates around one of these rivot posts. It is spring loaded, but clearly friction is now greater than the force of the spring (It's not the spring visible if you have removed the lock, that is the servo return spring). I'm betting at this point there is a bit of corrosion around the lock and the plastic coating on the latch mechanism is worn or damaged? So crap has got in there. So now what you need to do is free up the latch, So yes dumping a whole load of WD40 or Silicon oil in there may help (though you'll probably miss it), but you'll need to work it to free it up. To do this - as you can barely see inside the lock - you'll need to use a small screw driver and with the lock pushed into the closed position (with a larger screwdriver), push the small screwdriver inside the lock just to the outside of the C shaped post hole to where you might expect something to latch the arm of the C shaped mechanism. There should be enough play to push the latch further open and back so it eventually springs all the way back - It's not a large movement. You'll know it's sprung back because the lock will be latched. A bright light or a narrow beam torch will help you see inside the lock. Once it's moving, a good flush with an oil spray in the right place to clean out some of the crud should help, but suggest you use the small screw driver to ply it with lithium grease.

Had same thing on mine, it was track rod ends, but significantly drivers side seemed to have the greatest influence on steering judder (only felt on accelerating and breaking).

Yes, just head lights and breaks. On until you press brake, comes on again with head light failure when you turn head lights on.

I'm glad I eventually found this post, I found a lot of posts referring to erratic rear wiper movement, not parking correctly, starting on its own etc. In my case, the wiper would set off as soon as I turned on the ignition and stop after a few cycles, but not in the park position. If I selected rear wipe on the stork, the story was similar, it would go continuously for a bit then stop out of position, so in order to get it to go again I'd have to flick it off and on again on the stork. After a week of so running on a dry windscreen, the wiper blade was shot! Most posts seem to point to wiring faults in the rubber boot on the tail gate, but on mine in the face lift version, the wires are in cased in a flexible trunking as well (I guess to solve this worn cables issue). So this post gave me the confidence to attack the wiper motor itself and YES that was the problem. Grease in the mechanism eventually gets through to the electrical contacts on this control wheel. All that was required was a quick (but thorough) clean (no sanding) of the copper track and copper contacts and all was working again. You do have to get to the motor by taking the boot door card off, and get the motor out and apart, but THIS is the solution...

xotas is right, at least on the MKII, press the lock on the remote control twice in quick succession. The Door LED should Flash once remain off for a few seconds, then it will return to the normal flash. However, the sensors are off. I believe the double dead lock is also off though (car is still locked). If you press the lock on the remote again, the car will double dead lock (you'll hear it) and sensors come on. I had an issue with rear windows (manual crank) dropping down over time, could be one of these is slightly open. Also check there is no movement in car from unretracted seat belts, loose sun-visors etc. mine has only ever gone off twice, once when the sat nav fell off the window and once when the glove box popped open (stuffed too full!). Is your car parked on the road? fast passing car can sometimes set it off if too close when car rocks.

Hi Chris, I've taken a few videos of the tachometer while attempting starting and will try and post one that is an "average" start once I work out how to reduce it to a reasonable size. Sometimes the needle kicks more than others etc. As soon as the engine starts, the tachometer behaves as normal, steady as a rock,engine idle speed is fine, and engine response is normal (as is everything once engine is going). On turning the engine over, the engine can eventually fire a few strokes and then go back to turning over or then start. Or it can start first opportunity it catches after a period of turning over. Generally I've found if it tries to catch (fires the odd stroke) and doesn't, I get a better result if i turn the ignition off and immediately turn back on. This second start usually has a much higher success rate and starts earlier. But whose to say I'm not inventing rituals and superstitions now! It always eventually starts (so far) and I've not managed to flatten the battery yet, but I have taken it out and charged it a few times now. I will check the fuel supply at the filter and let you know, I need pointers like this Thanks. I have a relay 109 on the way (fairly cheap from VW), mainly because I couldn't track the info you've just given me and didn't really fancy bridging it in the fuse box, so thank you for that, I'll check power at fuses. I'd like to check the connections at ECU, but haven't figured out how to get the plugs off. Also, alternator wire and interior fuse supply wire in main fuse feed box are fine with normal use. But last night I turned EVERYTHING on and drove for 10 minutes and both were then very HOT near the feed box. In idle with everything on, only the interior fuse supply wire got hot first near the feed box. This has got to be contact resistance at the fuse connection so I'll give contact surface a clean here too as I only cleaned up the alternator cable before. Pick up new fuse box next week, but not going to wait till then in case this has nothing to do with it. VCDC-lite cable on way too, so hopefully be able to see actual output from engine temperature sensors etc. Thanks for sticking with me.

Mines a 55 plate but registered 2006 - I just don't mention that now. I used the Dealer to get the Cam belt and service done and managed to get the MOT and Ford Assist thrown in. Only did it cause they included a warranty on the cam belt - whether, should this be required, it is any good or not? With the European break down cover included it worked out quite competitive on price - but not on service... While I was there I went to the Parts department for one of those battery cover twist locks. "sorry sir, we only supply those in packets of 50" - really? Who needs 50 in one go? "if we could source them singly we would" - Well how I about I buy 1 packet and sell you 49 single units? "---silence---"

I'm going to replace the fuse box now I've found it to be in this condition. However I must stress, that it really isn't that badly damaged. Only the Alternator cable connection to the fuse showed any signs of deterioration. I'd describe it as rusted. I've cleaned this up for now (and replaced the fuse I broke). The inner copper of the cable itself is not heat tempered, but I'll replace this anyway. All the other connections were fine (very low resistance). I've felt the cable several times and it doesn't get hot, but then I didn't feel it before so have no indication that this is an improvement. I'm clueless to understand how the Alternator connection would have any effect on things, except in not charging the battery, which it was still is doing. However... After putting it all back together, it started a lot worse than the average bad start. Then, on thinking I'd record a video of the Tachometer needle, in front of the camera it started first time! Hasn't done that since the problem began. It was however a random occurrence. I live in hope of more random occurances.... I've convinced myself that the engine does turn over slightly faster the second attempt I try and start it and when it usually starts. I've also managed to hear the rear fuel pump, though I had to hang out the door and it did sound more like a the windscreen washer pump than a "squelch". I have heard it before and it sound normal to me. I couldn't get the ECU connections off, didn't want to force anything and couldn't figure it out. There seems to be a plastic bar holding them in that is bolted at one end behind, which I can't get to. Any hints? So for now, I'm replacing the Main Fuse Feed Box, Alternator Wire and Relay 109. Not convinced that any of these will make a difference, but live in hope. Any views on this now being a starter motor problem caused by a dual mass fly wheel disintegration?

The Door LED does not flash any error codes, just the acknowledgement of the pats chip confirm (i.e. comes on and goes out after about a second). I'm not sure I can hear a fuel pump, but then I've never listened for it. It's is probably the run on pump I'm hearing. But I've not noticed an absence of normal sounds, it just doesn't start properly. I've got the battery out on charge at the moment so will listen more closely when back in. While battery was out I've been hunting for other problems and discovered a slightly heat damaged main fuse feed box next to the battery. Damage isn't too bad (not as terminal as those reported here), slight heat damage to insulation on end of alternator cable, little bit of over heated plastic and slightly coloured patina to fuse. Checked tightness of connection and decided to undo, clean up and tighten the only rusted connection on the alternator end of the 150A fuse. On tightening, the bolt end (supposedly held by box) twisted and snapped the fuse! So just replacing fuse now! Going to have to order new box and Alternator lead in near future. Not my day so far...

The with compliments bit is funny enough without the "Feel the Difference" slogan - yes - on your pocket. Having had the car serviced, one of the wipers started connecting with the plastic cover at the base of the windscreen. I questioned whether this was now happening because of their removal to replace the cabin filter. Anyway, clearly they hadn't removed the wipers as I couldn't get them off and the plastic shroud has been damaged at one end where I guess they bent it up to get access without taking it off. IS this possible? But then the nice lady at Evan Halshaw on the service desk, who has obviously been trained to admit nothing, would not accept that the cabin filter was not replaced through the glove box! Anyway, I'm putting it down to coincidence and will disassemble the linkage and re grease as numerous posts on here have suggested.

Meant to say, there are definitely noises then I turn the key, I keep hearing them described as a squelch, but mine does sound more like a small electrical pump for a few seconds. All noises sound normal to me (as in before the problem). I have no flashing door error LED codes coming up. I have ordered a 109 - because I am clutching at straws and it's cheaper than a dual mass fly wheel and starter motor! - but there is no indication this has failed (no repeat clicks, no lack of glow plug dashboard light, no error codes in this direction). Someone mentioned (somewhere else) trying a bump (tow) start to test if it is the Starter motor. This sounds mad, might try a hill start, but not fancying no power on the way down if it doesn't start. Plenty of hills round here!

Hi Chris, This is where I started, the fault codes pointed to Crank shaft, this was replaced, that didn't help. Cam shaft sensor then replaced, that hasn't helped either. Right at the beginning instinct told me that despite diagnostics saying these sensors were at fault, I wasn't convinced.The engine ran fine once going. I'm aware that if the Crank shaft sensor fails while in motion, then the whole engine stops! This has never happened - so how come only faulting on starting. Further investigation of Ross tech web site (I want to point out at this point, if I sound confident, I'm actually out of my depth here) that if code 16705 (G28 engine RPM sensor intermittent) came up after extended cranking and replacing the sensor made no difference, to go back and check the basics! I'm now being lead down a different path and need advice. If - as I'm being told - the Dual Mass Fly wheel is on it's way out (I take that to mean disintegrating), then is it chucking crap everywhere? If so, would this effect the starter motor? Could this be a Starter Motor issue? Is it just that the started motor is not cranking fast enough? Could I be looking at having to replace the dual mass flywheel AND the starter motor to get this car starting again? I've seen indications of this on the TDI forum - but I'm no expert. Any pointers still appreciated Anthony

No improvement!! Well, no real improvement. I've now changed the Crank sensor and the Cam sensor. I could convince myself that there might be a slight improvement, but really that's insignificant to the actual problem, i.e it may start a little earlier after cranking for ages.... Having cleared all engine codes, these are the latest to be thrown up, I'm not saying that any more might be thrown up after more starts, but I suspect some of the later ones are a consequence. 16989 - ECU Defective intermittent 16705 - Engine RPM sensor - G28 intermittent The description is the extent of the information I have. What is sensor G28? I've seen in mentioned, but what is it? Is my ECU really defective, or is this an issue with a relay somewhere (109?)? The rpm needle still doesn't move when I initially start the car before springing into life after a few seconds and then bouncing around. Is this stopping the car from starting? I read that if the dual mass fly wheel is on the way out it can mess with the cam sensor, can someone confirm this. I mention this cause the mechanic I'm dealing with mentioned that it didn't sound fine. He mentioned a rattle as the engine is switched off as a pointer - any comments anyone? Any help appreciated

Any luck? If you disconnect the wire loom to the drivers door, do you still get the hazards flashing twice when you turn the head lights on? It's the headlights that is confusing me as there is nothing in the door related to this. I was wondering about an earthing fault to do with the door. The battery is definitely ok? Headlights and Electric Windows are high load items. Crap battery can throw up spurious electrical behaviour, but a lot more obvious things happen first (like not being able to star the car!) Anthony

Thanks Alan, I'm convinced about VCDS-lite as I'm quite keen to increase my knowledge. Thanks for the bedtime reading also, looks very useful. I'll let everyone watching this know the result of the Cam sensor change tomorrow. Anthony

Just a though, but have you checked your key. If your key is sending a signal to unlock the car, the indicators will flash twice (even if car is already unlocked). This will block controls to the windows because if you hold the unlock on your key, the electric windows will all open. The button on your key fob may have worn so it is giving intermittent signals as the key is moved. Try keeping the key well out of range of the vehicle and using a spare key, or take the battery out (don't loose chip inside) and manually unlock the car. I expect there is a switch in the drivers door lock that also disarms the alarm, but I have never stripped my door down that far, perhaps someone else has and can tel you how to disconnect it?

Hi Alan, thanks for the input. I'd like to know where the ECU gets the RPM from and if the tachometer get it's info from elsewhere or is an output of the ECU. I've got to test if fuel is actually being injected in the early stages yet. If what you say about the ECU being capable of ignoring the Cam sensor and use a default map, then it doesn't sound like replacing the Cam sensor is going to make a difference to starting, but I'll give it a go. I gather temperature sensors control whether glow plugs are on or not but I get the same starting issue with a warm or cold engine, so I'm looking elsewhere first. I've yet to own my own Vag-Com, but it's interesting me....

When was the cabin filter last changed? If it hasn't been done in a while, then it could be clogged? That would at least increase your air flow. Have you checked if it is wet or not? Blower tends to work of not work and it sounds like yours is working ok. The flow up the windscreen is nowhere near as good as it was on my Astra, but that never steamed up as bad as my Galaxy even without air con!

Hi Chris, My Car has 73K on the clock, the cam belt was done at 60K and the 70K service was done a few months back. It's difficult to think back if this starting problem came on gradually or suddenly because any deterioration was probably not noticeable until it failed to start straight away (as once started it runs fine). There's been no appreciable drop in ambient temperature, maybe slightly more damp than usual, so can't really put weather conditions into the mix. One of the errors brought up was Cam sensor out of range, but I'm not convinced changing the Cam sensor will solve this and it runs fine once started so I don't think there are any timing issues. No errors are ever recorded once the car is going. I'm going to change the Cam sensor on Tuesday and go from there, unless anyone can point me in the right direction. I'll also get the list of fault codes after I change it. Anthony

Just driven 180 miles non stop (not just out of fear of having to start the car again!) and no problems once going, so this is clearly a starting issue. Where does the instrument cluster (Tachometer) get the engine revolutions reading from and is it the same place as the ECU. I've read elsewhere on this site that no fuel is delivered on starting unless the engine cranks at +250 revs. Is that true? Is my engine fuel starved because it's not detecting engine rotation? Why does it all behave once started? Thoughts appreciated. Cam Sensor arrived, so fitting on Tuesday....

Did the old starter motor definitely fail? Did the smell definitely come from the starter motor? Check the above as suggested and then try jump starting it (connect Earth lead somewhere other than battery terminal of your battery). I'm not sure how you are checking the new battery, but do make sure it is fully charged. Probably a bit late, but I'd follow your nose.... If something has failed it could be sinking all the voltage, in which case there won't be enough to turn over the engine. Just check the immobiliser is working to rule that out. If you stick the key in and quickly turn it over, it will turn over before the chip in the key is interrogated and then it will cut out. However it will not turn over after this unless you remove the key. When you put the key in you should see the LED in the driver door come on for about a second and then go off. If it is not flashing any codes, it's probably working.

I don't think you have much hope of demisting the windscreen without air con or heated window matrix (does your car have heated front windscreen?). It's such a large windscreen and it gets cold, so when damp, you'll always end up with condensation. Can probably get by in the summer months, but beyond that.... I've also used a cheaper equivalent to RainX and it helps, but it was not enough. Even using the screen wash is enough to chill the window on a warm humid day and cause mist up! The problem is made much worse if the car has water ingress anywhere, or a whole lot of wet people get in. If your cabin filter is wet, then sort source of this problem first, it'll help. You could buy a car plug in ceramic blower heater and fix it to the Dash facing the window? might help.

Hi all, Having difficulty starting my Galaxy (2006 MkII 1.9 TDi Zetec [115]). I've read a lot of posts on this on this site, but none I've found mention the behaviour of the Tachometer. When I turn the key, the glow plug indicator lights for a second (as normal) and the engine turns over as normal, except it doesn't start immediately. If I continue to crank it over it may eventually start (30-40 seconds) though it makes an effort over it, occasionally catching momentarily. However, I've found it best to just turn it off and try again immediately and it may start in the same laboured way, only sooner (20-30 seconds). What is odd is that when initially starting the engine, there are no revs indicated on the Tachometer (though clearly the engine is turning), then the needle kicks into life after a few long seconds (as high as 5000 sometimes) and bounces around the bottom 1000, occasionally kicking higher, while trying to start. The Car doesn't start in the period the needle is zeroed, but this is only a few seconds. If I crank over for too long, I might get the warning message "Alternator Workshop" or "Engine Workshop" or even "Stop" and once started I occasionally get the glow plug light flashing. I believe the glow plug flashing (accompanied by a single beep) is just the ECU telling me that it has recorded a fault and nothing to do with the glow plugs Once started, the car runs fine. I've been charging the battery over night every second night as I do a lot of short trips. The Battery is less than a year old and has no problem cranking the engine over for a long time and has not run flat yet in all the attempted starts. The spare key has same effect, the door LED lights for a second then goes out (as it would do normally). So I don't think this is an immobiliser issue either.. Nothing useful has come out of engine diagnostic, but I got a garage to read these (£35). The result was that I got the Crank sensor (CPS) replaced (£37 + £30 Labour), but it has made absolutely no difference. Looking for some pointers on where to go with this one and I'm no expert but willing to take advice and have a go, or at least point a mechanic in the right direction. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I gather that this engine will start eventually even without working glow plugs and I wonder if this is relevant? I also wonder if Relay 109 is relevant as I've read about this here and gone as far as finding it in the third layer of the fuse box (thanks to this site). Does this power the ECU? Is there a relay/fuse for the glow plugs? Also wonder if this is anything to do with supply of diesel to engine (Pump? Solenoid?). I come back to the behaviour of the tachometer needle - This must be indicative of something? I've ordered a Cam Sensor (£78) as my next move. Any thoughts appreciated.