WelshWheeler

Hi there You say you had aircon regassed? has the squeal started since that, if you switch to ECON mode does it still squeal. Was that a new auxiliary belt tensioner? Hi Thanks for replying... New tensioner pullys were fitted to both timing belt and drive belt, I'v tried the climate control in all positions including off. Squeal happens with medium to heavy acceleration, not apparent with a light foot.When I fitted the alt pully I had to adjust the belt then, tried to make sure it was in centre of pullys. Car has been making the noise since before aircon was regassed but I thoght it was drive belt or alt pully.

Hi. Got a problem with my 2004 Galaxy Tdi, 130 ps. 105000 mls. The car has started making a squealing noise upon acceleration 2 - 3000 rpm, for the last 10000 mls. I have recently changed timing belt (which was in good condition at 60000mls in situ) and the aux drive belt (1st change). Belt tensioners were also changed. New exhaust was fitted last year, (last 2/3rds after cat). Because car was rumbling on full lock I have changed the alternator pulley, I considered this a prime suspect for the squeal. Steering rumble is gone, squeal is still there. It seems to squeal under medium to heavy acceleration, not so much on light accel'. The air con is not working well - could it be compressor bearings? power steering? The noise is a fan belt squeal type noise. I can get the engine to make this noise by revving at standstill but it is more apparent underway in low gears- not so noticable in high gears. Any thoghts on the the clutch, turbo or or gearbox being the culprit? The car does not appear to lose any power and except for air con, and drvers door speaker- not much else is wrong.I hope to get the air con looked at professionaly, had it refilled- no leak is apparent. Any one out there had a similar problem with their Gal? All help is much appreciated, Thank you Car has a manual gearbox.

Hi Tried to do it in situ but couldn't drive the spindle out it was solid in the sleeve. So had to take the assembly out. I then disconnected the drive arm and was careful not to move its position. Had to use a pin punch and and rest the assembly on a block of wood close to the spindle sleeve, to drive out the spindle - both sides. Then I used wet and dry paper to clean up the spindle and cleaned out the housing. Then regreased with waterproof grease. Did the same to other side. I found it useful to place the wiper arm nut back on the spindle to save the threads from risk of damage, tried a small drift but this seemed to risk the threads, pin punch worked great. Found that I did not need to remove the coolant tank, asasembly came out ok with it in situ. Then rebuild. No problem with position of wipers as I used tape to mark positions on glass, it worked first time. Also taped top trim with washers out of way on windscreen so no need to remove. What a differance I believe it may be possible to take out spindle now with regreased assembly in place, but any tightness at all would make this impossible. Many thanks to you Suzuki91 and this forum youve saved me a fortune with your excellant post.

Hi Good article could be very useful - a new set up of linkages is