big blue

Can anyone point me in the right direction?. I have removed the cylinder head from a 1.9 diesel gal (1999) Non PD - AFN engine i think. Now putting it back together and i think there should be a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. I have looked on VAG CAT and the turbo + manifold listed and pictured is not the one i have. The one listed has a square/oblong inlet to turbo with 4 fixing holes but mine is triangle flange with a round inlet with 3 fixing stubs. Can anyone tell me what i have and should there be a gasket? if so the part number? Thanks Big Blue.

If possible can some nice people point me in the right direction. I am wanting to remove the cylinder head from a w plate (2000) diesel 110 non PD engine. I need to lock the the crank shaft pully + injection pump + camshaft. I have seen several locking tools for the camshaft but most of them say they are for the PD engine and they all look the same . Is there a differance between the locking tools for PD and Non PD engines, or is there a kit that has all the bits i need. Many thanks Big Blue

Mk1 diesel (2000) Nuts + Bolts. Pig of a job. Want to know for certain ----- crawl under the car and have a good look. Beware- mine had flanged nuts +bolts. Also had to buy a reciprocating saw to get the other end of the cat out of the exhause. PIG OF A JOB.

could you tell me how long it took to get the head off. I am thinking of replacing the head gasket on mine. thanks.

I am starting to feel sorry for the weirdo's now. :16:

err.. mumof4 it may be wise to pull the ebay add and re-doit - seeing as you have put you mobile number there, every weirdo who looks at the page can call and text you and seeing as you have now posted a link from this site all the weirdos on here can call you as well :16: Big blue.

I have got to agree with turk90210 back to the start. You have said that the thermostat has been changed a year ago - and then you said no way could it be a year old, if they have not bothered fitting a new

Hi turk90210 Jay01438 did not say if the engine was running or not when the 'pressure test was done' - it could still be the gasket!!. i know everybody wants to give the best advice - and to be honest changing the waterpump is a safer option than trying to replacing the head gasket. Big blue.

I ordered from EBAY just the water pump, but got sent the entire water pump assembly. While i was fixing the thermostat i decided (because of what looked like a botched / crap previous repair) to replace the entire pump assembly as this looked easier than trying to get the face plate + pump off. Because i had to keep going out to buy the correct tool to take the next part off (4 trips out in total) it took about 10 hours to get off and back on againe. The overflow pipe into the header tank also spurts (like yours) thats one of the reasons i think my head gasket has gone. To be honest the head pressure test sounds a bit odd. If you put 2bar into the header tank this would only be about 30psi this dose not sound like a lot of pressure (this sounds more like a coolant leak test). Diesels work at a much higher pressure ( 19bar )- looking at machine mart they do a diesel pressure tester that you put in place of the injector and this measures the compression on the piston this works upto 1000psi (almost 70 bar). Pushing hot gas through a small hole in the gasket is a lot easier that trying to push water through a small hole. If i were you i would try and get a compression test done to rule out the head gasket. I can let you know what tools i used and what parts i took off and in what order if you want. Big Blue

Hi Jay01438, I have a 2000 plate diesel with a overheating/pressure problems. I am not shure that turk90210 has given you the correct advice as i cannot find a second electric water pump - i think this was fitted to later models - (but i will stand corrected if i find one). If the rear heater pipes (the 2 ali pipes under the car passenger side) start to get hot when you start the car then the water is getting round all the pipes as it should at that time. When the water has reached the correct temperature then the thermostat will open up and let water flow through the radiator - cooling the engine. I know this sounds like i am taking the p*ss but did you :- 1.. check that the thermostat worked before you fitted it?. 2.. fitted the thermostat the correct way round (someone else on this site has had one fitted the wrong way round). 3.. check that the water pump impella was made of metal - not plastic ( i know mine was plastic). 4.. check that the radiator is not blocked - so the water cannot flow through all of it. 5.. check the the air can flow through the radiator. 6.. that the pressure test performed was for a diesel engine - not a petrol one (was it done when the engine was hot (there can be micro fractures that open up when the engine is hot). i know it sounds like i am taking the p*ss but these are the thing i have looked for and ruled out with my car. Big Blue. .

Yes. On mine (MK1 Diesel) a pipe comes out of the top of the engine down to the water pump another goes to the radiator and a third splits to the front and rear heater matrix. Its the front and rear heaters where all the coolent hides and if you drain it, this is where you get the airlocks. The best way of shifting the airlocks i have found so far is to go for a quick drive. When i did mine 2 weeks ago, i filled it, had the car ticking over for 15 mins and the header tank was full to the brim. Took the car round the block (only 600 yards) and the header tank was empty - it took another 2 liters. Keep you eye on it and keep filling it thats what i did. Good luck. Big Blue.

Have a look under the car - pasenger side - and you should see 2 aliminimum pipes about 20mm dia these are for the rear heater follow them to the rear of the car untill you get to the aux heater, where they connect to a rubber hose - take this off - it should drain the Aux heater + rear matrix and some/most of the engine. Big Blue.

Yep --- me too. i thought i was her only true love. It turns out she trying to date half the members Well lads if we have to take a number remember i am number six.

Hi Markie, I have a MK1 2000 Diesel manual single aircon, and i can rotate the centre of the aircon pully by hand, it feels like i am pushing some liquid out of the way but it dose not go hard. Also one of my pipes gets VERY hot while the other one gets a fraction cooler. When i have connected a pressure refill thing to the low pressure port the gauge is in the 'danger over filled' section untill the aircon kickes in then it goes down to the normal section (boarder line between under pressure and normal) but goes straight back to 'danger' when the engine stops. That is when mine wants to work - regardless of switch position my turns on when the engine has got warm enough - but i think (hope) thats a stuck relay some where. Big Blue.

We have a 2000 MK1 Diesel Auto - with a heating problem. Temp normally is very low (white section on the gauge) takes ages to move off the bottom stop but some times has gone into the red (once on holiday), no heat into the cabin and the pipes that go to the rear AUX heater never got warm. Having read a lot of the heating/cooling posts on this site i decided it must be 1 of 5 things 1.. Airlock 2.. Thermostat 3.. Water pump 4.. Head gasket 5.. All of the the above. I thought i got rid of the airlock about 4 weeks ago (removed the rubber from the AUX heater - loads of brown water then nice blue stuff - refilled - then next day did the same with the pipe that go into the front heater matrix), it worked for a week or so, then back to square one. So number 2 on the list was the thermostat. Got one off E-Bay and while i was at it got a water pump (just in case). So this weekend i got to work................ After a couple of hours i found this.. At this point i decided i would replace the entire water pump - so several houre later i got this out.... so.. why would some one pull out the thermostat - rip it in bits and then glue the pump back together. The car now runs at a contstant temp ( middle of the gauge) - we got a lot of steam / misting on the windows once the heater came on - i hope this is just water / moisture from the heater matrix housing (as its not been used for a long time so water could have got in there i hope) and not a hole in the heater matrix - but i am still getting a lot of pressure in the header tank. Any thoughts......

i have a 2000 (W plate) MK1 diesel - i found the filling port hiding behind the drivers side indicator. Remove the TORX screw holding the indicator to the headlamp - and the indicator slides forward and can be removed - the fill port is just inside the hole. Yes i have used one - and they do top up the system, but they are more handy to check the fill level rather than filling the system.

I had to take my wiper assembly out of my 2000 reg MK1 diesel to change the pollen filter, to get it out change the filter and back together - took less than an hour. I have photos if you want?.

Hi, can anybody help - i have an aircon problem. I have gas. The clutch turns ( by hand) - but there is no voltage at the connector. I think the problem/fault may be with the outside temperature sensor and/or the high pressure pipe temperature sensor. Can anybody tell me if these sensors are normally closed or normally open. I have a multimeter and measured the resistance across both of these sensors. The outside temp sensor read open circuit and the high pressure pipe one reads 12 to 16 ohms ( as good as closed) both readings taken out of the car with no heat or cooling applied Is this correct and if not where can i get them cheap ??. Big Blue

Hi, not shure if this helps or not - but i think the 'pink' sensor under the fan relay bracket measures the temperature on the high pressure a/c pipe (this pipe should get hot) - looking in the Haynes manual it looks like it should be open circuit (untill it gets hot then closed circuit - i think). The only problem is mine gives me a reading of 13 to 16 ohms when measured (engine flat cold a/c pipe flat cold) - this to me would appear to be closed circuit - not open like the Haynes manual would indicate. Hope this helps Big Blue.

Ahhhhhhhh --- Found it. It was hiding behind the drivers indicator - so the good news is i have pressure - the bad news the centre of the compressor pully is not turning, it will turn by hand (just). i have measured the voltage across the compressor plug and there is nothing with or without a/c on - the fans kick in but no voltage on the connector. Back to Mr Haynes i think.

Thanks for the info 1truegeordie, i may have got this wrong but the pipe that goes from the compressor to the front of the engine bay up infront of the fans across to the battery compartment (where a fill / check point is) under the fan relay controll bracket ( diesel model not shure about petrol) also at this point there is a sensor?? that touches this pipe?? it then goes into the front grill and connects to the condensing radiator --- is that not the high pressure pipe?. I thought the low pressure one was the bigger (3/4" - 20mm diamater) pipe that comes from the back of the engine bay where it connects to the a/c fan unit in the cabin across to the drivers side - along the side member and then goes into the side member / wing to avoid the belts and pullys on the engine, comes out of the wing and crosses to the compressor on the under side of the engine. As i have said the only time i cannot trace this pipe is when it goes under the air filter / lamp guard and into the wing if the fill point is hiding under here its bloody bad design. I will have another 'play' later on today, to see if i can find it, if i cant i will play dumb and let kwick fit have a go.

Thanks John, the compressor drive pully is turning but the centre is not - so it looks like no gas. Having spent the last week crawling all over the car trying to find the flaming thing - i cannot belive that Kwik fit and the like will start taking the car apart for

Thanks for the info Ivor_E_Tower, the thing is some one at work has used a Halfords re-gas can on their air con and given me the can + gauge to check mine. Even if there is no gas left in the can i could still check if there is any pressure in my system - at least it would be a starting point to finding a fault. Big Blue.

Can any body help. We have just got a diesel auto 1.9 TDI with a mountain of small problems, one of which is --- wait for it --- no air con. Can any body tell me where the low pressure fill point is, i can find the high pressure point but not the low. It looks like the condenser has been replaced at some time so i would guess it got refilled. the thing is we went for a short drive (50 miles) the pipe from the a/c pump to the condenser was red hot, strange thing is we did not have the air con on, when we tried it earlier it did not work so we turned it off. Any help would be great. Sorry if this post should be some where else or some one has answered this but i am new to this site. Thanks... Big Blue.