JRWR

I don't believe this is an unnecessary part of the car and it should work properly. However, on my 2004 TDi Galaxy it doesn't and VAG-COM indicates it has failed to ignite a number of times so it's stopped trying which suggests a replacement glow plug is due. I have access to the brilliant photos and full description on how to do this replacement but could anyone point me in the direction of where to get the glow plug? Are there different ones for different models? Should I buy from Ford/VW/Seat or is it available on eBay or anywhere else on-line? Thanks all JRWR

Thanks edatelder They must be quite small connectors but if they work then I suppose they're not actually shortening the cable. Anyway, I've decided to repair mine by soldering but that has meant a delay of a week while I get the necessary bits together: Soldering iron station (50W adjustable) + solder, bits, tweezers, de-solder pump etc (

I'm not sure if the attached shows the extent of the broken wires. They are frayed/broken in one place and then also again about 1" further towards the door (behind the rubber gaitor in this pic). The grey wire is completely broken and others are exposed. This is a design fault. If copper wires are used somewhere that they'll be stressed back and forth each time the door is opened then they'll fail. Perhaps steel wires should have been used. I think any repair with solder is going to fail again quite quickly - faster than the original fail. I did consider patching them up and I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has done so with any success.

Thanks Seatkit Managed to get time to check today and indeed there are about 3 wires broken and various other wires frayed! I daren't reconnect the door incase something shorts so I've left it tucked up by the door pilar and locked the door manually from the inside for now. The wires may be repairable if I solder some splices pieces in but soldered joints are going to fail again quite quickly. Time to save my pennies for a new door wiring loom -

Both the offside passenger window and the window behind that which opens slightly (control button close to the gear lever) have stopped working on my MkII Galaxy. The passenger window doesn't work with either the driver door switch or the passenger door switch and there's no 'clicking' noise from the door (which there is from other doors when you attempt to close them and they're already closed) I've tried disconnecting and reconnecting the passenger door electrics as described in the FAQs but I'm not then sure how to access the wires which a search on the forum suggested it could be (after flexing from the door being opened and closed they may fatigue and break?) Is it necessary to removed the door trim? Incidentally, global closing works on the remaining 3 windows but global opening doesn't on any window - I don't think it ever has. Any suggestions much appreciated. Cheers, JRWR

Will get some tomorrow. To me the thing about pipes is they're pretty much part intensive (unlike something like brakes which are labour intensive) so if it's

Mine has snapped just in front of the centre silencer .. not actually that much difference in noise but then when the end section went last year I only noticed when follwing my wife driving and saw it rocking side to side. How much for a new centre section and is it worth considering doing myself? Cheers y'all

Well that shows admirable restraint .. I shall aspire to your level or tolerance Mirez. While I'd not become concerned by any replies I feel that it's hard to accept outright rudeness and ingratitude without a change in attitude. There are many who become frustrated with their cars and start to see support forums almost as an extension of the dealer service that should be provided by their car manufacturer .. they need to think again.

Fantastic stuff. A newbie comes on, pays nothing and expects everything, and then feels it's appropriate to complain when the level of service (poor spelling and capitalisation) doesn't meet their expectations. Mirez and Gregers, you helped this guy out .. what'll be your attitude next time?

I had a similar poblem with vista but found I could get it to work if I ran the freebie vag-com application in 'compatibility mode'.

Hmmm I think if they were for a MkII they'd be 300mm and for a MkI they'd be 288mm

I have the basic VAGCOM and lead so although it will interpret a few codes it won't do them all. Can you provide a link to where the codes can be downloaded from? Cheers, JRWR

Well, all discs and pads done. No pics as no one seemed interested but one thing for people to perhaps watch for: I bought Mintex pads and discs. They were all fine apart from the front pads. Only one of the front pads actually needs wires but my set came with 2 pads with wires. That was OK as I just cut the wires off one of the pads but neither of the Mintex pads with wires had wires as long as the original OEM pads - they were about 25mm too short. (I had to relocated the plug/socket and secure it with tie-wraps to make it work.) Also note if you undertake this job - the brake fluid reservoir appears to be inaccessible and it almost is and you need to remove the air filter cover (3 screws) and pipe with clamp (mole grips?) to get anywhere near it. The MAX/MIN indications are as good as useless. JRWR

Yes, thanks familyman, I'd read that before and so I've bought a 'rewind tool' (The rear discs are also operated by the handbrake). That's the sort of info I think would be good in a rear disc 'faq' so I'll hope to do that with a few pics. I have the Ford TIS CD so I'll also try to include what I think are the right torque values (obviously these will vary from model to model.) Cheers, JRWR

I'll be changing discs and pads all round next weekend so in readiness I've printed out the FAQ for front discs (including steps and pictures). For the rear discs should I be looking out for anything? There looks to be a disc shield but that should be straightforward I hope. I hope to have my Dad on hand, mainly to take pics, so maybe I'll be able to do a rear disc FAQ soon. Cheers all, JRWR

This is the cable I bought: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=370161224677 It took a while to arrive as I ordered it without realising it was from the US. However, I can confirm it doesn't use 'opto-isolators' (apparently a 'bad thing'!) so it works with the latest 'free' version of VAG-COM. You do get details of 'some' of the error codes but not all (maybe 1 in 3?). But you do get all the error codes so you can then go and look them up yourself. It's just the software being tricky and trying to get you to buy the full version. The software is downloaded from here: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/download/archives.html JRWR

Yeah, I think I saw a post where someone stuffed it into a pot of ice cream! LOL

I recently bought a generic VAG-COM lead (

I just bought one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-Vag-Com-Cable-In...A1%7C240%3A1308 It's not an opto-isolated one (apparently some of the older leads are opto-isolated and so don't work too well) so it works fine but the VAG-COM application (version 409.1) doesn't run well under Vista until you set it to work in compatibility mode. With that lead and the free download I'm sure you could reset the airbag light. It took a while to arrive as it's from the states but similar leads are available for the same price from the UK.

Is this some special 'brake cleaner' or just something like white spirit? What sort of brake fluid is recommended? (DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, DOT5.1?)

I'm still baffled as to how a connection was made between an external indicator light coming on and a low fluid level. I can't see the engineers at VW thinking, "Hmm, we have a sensor which can detect the level has dropped too low. How do we convey that information to the driver? We can either flash up a warning message or relevant warning light on the dash .. or we can illuminate the external LHD indicator so cars waiting to pull out will thnk the car is turning left and believe it's safe to do so when it's not. Hmm ... thinks, thinks. I prefer the latter!" Isn't it more likely to be a loose connection, possibly in or close to the indicator switch, which, when subject to turning forces makes contact and illuminates the light?

I'm not clear on the description of the problem. You go round corners or up hills and the left hand indicator comes on, albeit intermittently - so is that both the actually indicator on the outside of the car and the light in the dash? If so I don't understand why you'd associate an external indicator lamp coming on unexpectedly with .. the expansion tank! Or the brake/clutch reservoir! You say that when the light goes off (which light, the dash light or the actual indicator?) that all works well. So are you saying it doesn't work when it comes on?