brethy

**I have today finally managed to scrape the pennies together to get the wiring loom replaced. Got the new loom from VW

Many thanks Seatkid, that's a bit more reassuring, I was worried I may of made things worse. I've been quoted

Hi Amarok, thanks for the reply. I appreciate your concern but just to put your mind at rest the Maf and Map were changed last year in response to specific fault codes identified by my mechanic. It's not just a case a case of me changing things willy nilly :)although I did try disconnecting the maf just to see if it affected performance. This running rough is a separate problem which has only become really bad in the last month. I will be getting my mechanic to check the wiring loom and injectors to see if this is the cause of the problem, and replace if required. I just needed to be able to narrow the fault down before committing to having the work done. Times are hard, in an ideal world I would just put it in a main dealer and say find the fault and repair it, but unfortunately I've not won the lottery this week (again!) :) I'm just so grateful for this site, it's given me lots of help and information. Thanks Donna

Well done Chris and Seatkid, managed to get vagcom running and the fault is 18074 PD Unit Injector, cylinder 1, electrical malfunction. I've been on the Ross Tech website and found the fault code and it says "wiring or connections to/from the valve for pump jet, check wiring etc. It also says replace the wiring harness before any injectors, am I right in thinking this is the injector loom?, also do you know roughly how much they cost. Many thanks for all the help (and for the telling off Chris :) )

Sorry.............I'll get my coat :)

Following on from my previous thread, the juddering definately seems to be oil temp related. When started from cold car judders, low power and terrible mpg. When the oil temp is up to normal temp (90deg) if you turn the car off and back on it drives great, no shuddering, lots of power, back to normal. So can anyone give me any help as to what might be causing this, feel a bit happier now I can see what's happening, just need to find out why. Many thanks.

Thanks Chris, one more thing to think aout lol. Definately think it's temperature related, I've been watching it closely today: Car started from cold = lots of shaking, no power, runs terrible. Car brought up to normal operating temperature, switched off and back on again = no shaking, full power, runs and sounds perfectly normal?. So, could it be the temperature sensor, would this show these symptoms?, or does anyone have any other ideas? Thanks ever so much :rolleyes: Ps I've put the Millers power sport 4 in as well so I'll see if it makes any difference.

Quick update, I've been running the kids to school this week and the first trip of the day the car is truly awful, mega shaking, no power, terrible mpg and sounds worse than a tractor :rolleyes: However upon dropping off the youngest where the car stands for 5 mins or so then the next trip is fine, power, no shaking in any gears, mpg back up, it's like driving a different car. Surely if something major has gone, gearbox etc, it would be bad all the time, not intermittently??. So, could it be realated to the cars temperature?, once it gets up to 90 deg I seem to get normal driving. The other things I've been thinking of are fuel injectors, if they are clogged would this cause these symptoms? I've just got some Millers power sport 4 to try and see if it helps. Also EGR valve if it's filthy (more than likely) would this cause these problems and how easy is it to remove and clean, bearing in mind I am a helpless female :o I forgot to say the car has done 138,000 miles if that's relevant. Any comments or suggestions gratefully accepted, pleeeaaase :( Ps Am still getting to grips with the Vagcom, will post any results I may get, if ever lol

Thanks Chris, found it and changed it to 3, I'll give it another go tomorrow and see if I can get any further, just had one of those rare trips where it ran lovely, plenty of power, no shaking, reminded me how it can be :(

Hi Chris, yes it's also running very slowly, I'm just trying to find out how to lower the "latency" to 3 (found on a thread on here) to see if that helps. I've only recently done a full reset so I've not got much to lose if I have to do another one! been doing this all day now :(

Well I've managed to get the VagCom running and it's talking to the car!, the problem now is I keep getting the message "Too many errors to communicate" but apparently my ABS is fine lol!. Is it just a crap cable or does someone know a way around it?. Please help!!!.

Just to add, I've tried it with the Maf disconnected, the shaking remained the same, I just had absolutely no power, people were staring at me lol. Also the shaking is REALLY bad, just like driving over a cattle grid, the only way I can continue driving is to drop down the gears and acclerate again, it's driving me nuts!,the stupid thing is the power is there?

Thanks Mirez, no the power stays the same, great acceleration in 3rd and 4th, shakes in 5th and then keeps shaking if I let the speed and revs decrease. It only lacks power in 1st and 2nd eg, pulling away at junctions, then it threatens to stall and has done on occasion. A couple of other things to note I have noticed my front tyres squealing more than normal, as if they can't cope with the power. Also we had a small oil leak a while back, again don't know where from but that hasn't re-occurred. I'm near Blackpool in the North West if anyone can help.

Hi Mirez, the service was, new fuel filter, air filter and oil filter, oil change, brakes checked, the car did run a bit better in the week following so I was hopeful that the oil change had done some good, but it soon went bad again.

Hi Chris, thanks for the reply, I've just got a vag com lead and I'm still trying to fathom it out, recognises the computer port and the car just won't run the programme, it keeps shutting down?. As soon as I get it running I'll post the codes, think there may be a few :lol:

Car: 2001 Galaxy Tdi 115. Symptoms: Loss of power at low revs, to the pont of stalling.Car "hangs back" as if fuel not getting through then starts shaking in 2nd gear. Not so bad in 3rd, awful in 4th however if you accelerate to 3000 revs shaking stops until speed/revs drop again. Symptoms gradually getting worse, used to be 1 in 5 trips bad, now 4 in 5, but it doesnt do it every time and when it doesnt car runs fine with power and turbo working??. Getting fed up of driving round in 3rd gear!!. Already tried: Replaced Maf (Bosch one off ebay, looked original came with end caps etc,but I'm starting to wonder now), Replaced Map(again off ebay but I know this definately works). Had full service. Have just got a Vag-Com of ebay and am currently trying to scan car, (thanks very much for the sticky came in very useful in setting it up) so hopefully I may have some fault codes soon. If anyone can please give me any other pointers or suggestion I would be very grateful as it's doing my head in now. I've read loads of threads on here with similar symptoms DMF, sticky vanes,MAF, Map just don't know where to start. I'm really hoping it's just a crap MAF I've fitted, would it show these symptoms?, as if it's anything major (gearbox etc) then the car is toast as I just haven't got the money :22: Thanks for reading any help very gratefully received :lol:

Update, managed to get a like for like TMAP sensor off ebay for

Well just took it for a little spin and the first time I put my foot down the turbo kicked in after a slight hesitation, and it went like a rocket! and then..... nothing again :) So at least I know my turbo hasn't seized up (I think :) ) so can anybody tell me if it's worth changing the TMAP, is it a trait that the turbo trips in and out if it's faulty?, I also checked all the hoses I could see and whilst there were no obvious splits I really don't know which hose goes where :) Any help gratefully recieved, I'm totally broke so have to fix it on a shoestring or blue tack, sellotape etc :)

Well have taken off the TMAP and it was quite oily in the "cone basket"?? don't know what else to call it :) I've given it a clean, is it possible to run the car with this unplugged, like you can with the MAF, so I can see if it makes a difference? Thanks for any help x.

Thanks Chris, don't you sleep :) I will have a root about today as the rain has finally stopped here. Will let you know how it goes :)

Thanks very much for the reply Chris, if it did say short to ground what would that mean?, also is the EGR valve easy to open would it be worth me looking in there to see if it's dirty. Thanks Donna x

Please can anyone point me in the right direction before I a completely bald!. I have a 2001 1.9 TDI Galaxy which recently lost power,no turbo, occasional limp mode, absolutely no acceleration at all :( . After reading up on here and having my VAG COM codes read it pointed to a faulty MAF which I duly changed and hoped for the best :lol: it was a little better a first but then reverted back :P So I read some more and put some Redex in which also helped for a while but there is still no power, god I miss my turbo :wub: I would also say that on the first trip of the day the power is there at the start but this soon goes, also if I back off on the accelerator it seems to release the pressure and the car picks up a bit, it's hard to explain :lol: . So today, whilst having my brake pads done, I had the codes read again and the only code I am now getting is 17564 SENDER FOR MANIFOLD PRESSURE please can anyone tell me anything about this, I've read it can be a clogged TMAP :P but don't know where this is, where should I be looking?, where is the EGR valve?, do I need to replace the pressure sender? Any help very gratefully received, I just want my car back. Thanks Donna

Many thanks MM that seems to agree with my own findings, I can't wait to get the booster heater fitted so I can see what difference it makes, I'm soooo grateful to this forum as I would never of known about it otherwise and we're now getting it mended under warranty :lol: Ta again.

Thanks Soptom it was rather alarming to see it dropping at such a rate, as long as it stays around 90 or I can explain the drop I'm happy. Incidentally when you say "absolute age to warm up" what time frame would you say as it does take a while from cold?. Thanks :lol:

Thanks once again for the replies I was watching the temp guage carefully today and with the blowers on auto (temp 26) it sat quite happily dead on 90 degrees it's only when you turn the blowers onto high the enine temp drops so it seems to be working ok. I'll let you know what happens when I get the new aux heater fitted. John thanks for the tip on the radiator I'll try that tomorrow and I'm definately 100% female, just a little dizzy a times :lol: Thanks