makil6

Problem solved!! And it wasn't the drop links........... First thought it was the track rod end but on further investigation found it to be the inner tie rod. Under the gaiter on the steering rack where the tie rod screws to the rack there is a ball and socket type joint that for some reason had stiffened up a bit. Causing it to jerk with every movement which then amplified right up the car. Gave it a good old spray and smeared some grease into the socket best i could and worked it about a little. Stuck it back together and......silence. Apart from the engine which on a mk1 with 150k on the clock is not the quietest. Cheers, Just goes to show there is more to steering/suspension noises than droplinks.

Hi lobb, your posts sort of in the wrong place, you shouldve started a whole new post, but not to worry. My Gal done exactly the same thing about a year or 2 ago. Read all the posts about it could be the gear box knackered, needs new box etc. In the end a friendly mechanic told me its a common fault for the selector to partially sieze up. So.....get as best access to the top of the box you can (remove the battery and anything else in the way) pop off the selector cables from the gearbox(best not to try and force with the gear stick as this could damage the cables). Spray a whole load of WD40 around the mechanism, then go and have yourself a good load of spinach. After letting it soak for a wee while get your arms in the best you can and just try and work the mechanism free ie up and down and side to side. Be prepared for a few minor hand and arm injuries but could save on a hefty garage bill. This worked for me so hope it does for you.

Cheers for any info, going to have a good look with a mate over the weekend.

Been doing it for few weeks, changed the drop links and it made no difference, not even for a day. In the past when the ARBs have needed done it sounded more like the front end was falling off, especially over bumps. this time bumps dont meke a difference. Not OEM droplinks but they wouldve made some change and they felt tight enough when i put them on. And the undertray hasnt been on for about 3 years so that can also be ruled out. Engine roll restrictor seems tight enough. Any way of checking the driveshaft play or anything like that??

Hi steve, doesnt appear to be connected to speed, it doesnt do it when the car is stationary even if i rev the engine. still does it if you put it into neutral when moving. its not a regular uniform knock if you know what i mean. Kids say it sounds like there is someone under the car wanting in!! :unsure:

Hi biscuit, maybe too late for you but my turbo went beginning of last year and after a lot of searching and phoning i got one from www.turbocharger-solutions.co.uk for 255+vat. Just over 300, which i thought was good. Fitted it myself with no fancy tools, but it was my toughest challenge to date i would say. You just return your old one when the jobs done. hope this helps you, cheers.

Hi guys, been persevering with this for a while but now its getting to me, 97 mk1 Gal, with quite a few miles. Knocking from the front end, quite heavily i may add. (dont mention the drop links, tried and failed) doesnt matter if im going straight, round bends, rough roads or smooth roads, no difference. Doesnt do it on idling, but will do if you put it into neutral when going.(not gearbox then?). Now so bad as the wifes labelling it a death trap!!! Done the top strut mounts a few years back so hopefully wont be them, was thinking or guessing track rod ends. Jacked it up and tried for movement in the track rods but couldnt really tell. any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Yeah, i suppose. What is your opinion on the cv joint route? Could these failing cause knocking even when going straight?

Don't think its the stabiliser bar, had a look and it all looks good. maybe have to let someone else have a drive in it and see what they think. Still open to any suggestions from here though if anyone can offer any.......

Thanks for the speedy reply. Never checked that cos i was more thinking along the lines that it was something rotational that was the problem. Will definitley have a look at that tomorrow. Is this the bar with the oval rubber bush at one end and the square rubber at the other end? (thats from memory so might be totally wrong!!!!). Its def not going in any garage so the more help i get on here the better. Thanks again.

Here i am once again for my yearly post! (Not quite). Anyway, driving along im getting a constant knock somewhere from the front end, can actually feel it up through the steering. Dont think its the drop links as when they have gone in the past that gives the impression the front end is about to drop off!! I was thinking the CV joints but all the guides and what not mention about knocking on full lock going round bends, mines is all the time. I jacked up the front wheels and moved the wheels back and forth, there is a slight knock when i changed direction but how bad would it have to be to be so bad when driving? Again any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Its a P plate 1.9tdi with approx 145k on the clock. Cheers.

I'd love to say i felt sorry for you..........but! 7/8 months ago, the economy had already started goin t*ts up, so to go and spend 44 GRAND on a couple of cars!!! Methinks your in the wrong place for sympathy my friend. I use this forum to try and keep my old gal on the road so unfortunately i can't really see the need looking for technical advice for your spanking new top of the range gold encrusted (investment) galaxy. :blink: C ya.

Thanks Paul, certainly right when you say "not the easiest". job done but what a nightmare getting the old bearing out the housing!! Don't think my homemade slide hammer was up to the job, but hey 43 quid and a few scrapes, not too big a price to pay. Just got to take it back to the garage tomorrow for the 'green' slip. Hopefully. Thanks again. Till the next time, adios.....

Just had another MOT failure, not too bad this time tho............nearside rear wheel bearing gone! Any hints or tips on how big a job this is and are any special tools needed. Phoned around today, roughly 40 quid per side except frauds, they only wanted

Probably wont help you much but i had to replace the top strut mounts on my Gal a couple of years ago, (nightmare!). I believe in an ideal world your supposed to hold the strut from turning by using an allen key in the top of the threaded rod at the top whilst removing the top nut. Haha. The cup on mines under the bonnet was full of water and the allen socket lasted about 2 mins. Im sure i had to end up using mole grips on the strut under the wheel arch. Once the nuts were off it was plain sailing and it certainly stopped it sounding like the front end was falling apart. Best of luck with all yours, and BTW just put a cable tie on the steering rack gaitor, thats what a garage would do. Had 4 racks on mine, but thats a different story.

Anyone had similar? Getting a small leak of brake fluid at o/s/r caliper at the handbrake lever. Been underneath and it only happens when the handbrake is operated, slight weep. done it before for a couple of days then it stopped. Just done all the pads and discs so i dont know if this could have started it off again. Any help appreciated.

Hi, I got one the end of last year for my 1.9Tdi Gal from http://www.turbocharger-solutions.co.uk/. Very reasonable ( i think ) 255+vat. Recon and return the old one. Bit of a pain to access the top bolts, but not impossible. Hope this helps.

Not too sure, but it may be the bearings on the turbo on there way out causing the impeller to rub inside the turbo housing. I was having similar noises just before my turbo gave up altogether. When it did go, it had no power and loads of blue/ black smoke due to the oil thats meant to cool the seals passing straight out the turbo and into the exhaust. Hope im wrong cos it ended up a bit costly. Best of luck.

Sounds a bit similar to a problem i had a few months back. Went from starting ok to starting on about the 10th attempt. Then not starting at all. You just get the 'click' when turning the key. Tried all the usual, ie jump start, charge the battery etc. No joy. Took the starter out and gave it to an electrician friend to test. He brought it back and said, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Said the carbon brushes were badly worn that contact wasn't always getting made inside. Got a recon starter for 50 quid from a mate who works for a motor factors and hey presto!! No more staring problems. Until the Turbo failed in december but thats a different story..Hope this helps to resolve or eliminate the problem. Mines a 97 diesel 90hp with 140000 on the clock. MOT fail last week. Minor work required but nothing heavy. Passed yesterday!! Cheers.

Thanks for the info folks, managed to get the job done today, just before the weather changed. No fancy spanners required, was a bit ackward getting the bolts on the manifold out though. Was glad to see the old one was definately gone, the shaft was falling all over the place. Replaced the cat while i was there 6 MOT passes with a baby milk tin!! Not bad. 300 for the turbo and 50 for the cat. Hope next months MOT doesn't throw much up.

Thanks for the quick reply baz, this is the link that i mentioned in my post about removing the manifold and so on. It seems to be quite indepth and very detailed, but looking at the pictures the actual turbo seems to differ slightly from mine. Started to get a bit cold and dark when i was at it earlier, so tomorrow is another day. Cheers.

Hi folks, this is an off shoot of another topic i had which seems to have died a death. Ive had my problem diagnosed as a knackered turbo, so i have gone ahead and ordered a recon one from an online supplier. Ive got a haynes manual which describes how to remove the said turbo, but once i started i found out it aint the same as in the book. The problem im having is the bolts which attach the unit to the manifold. One nut appears to be accessible from the bottom and another two from the top? I think. So the question is how do i disconnect the turbo from the manifold????? I saw another link somewhere that mentions taking the manifold off with the turbo and removing a drive shaft to get it out the bottom, this seems a bit extreme, if anyone can help, please gimme a shout. Phew!!!!!!

Thanks, i'll start pricing a new or recon'd turbo tomorrow and let you know how i get on.

Had a look this afternoon, couldnt see much in the poor light but the oil level was pretty low so yep shes burning oil. Also got a bit of oily deposit at the tailpipe. Anyone any idea if turbo failure would cause these symptoms or am i looking in the wrong direction? Dont think its the maf as this wouldnt cause the excessive smoke. Think it may have to go into a garage for a diagnosis if i cant get some help. Stranded without the gal!!! Thanks again folks.

Had a quick look this morning, on revving up the smokes more bluey grey than black if that helps anymore. Not had a chance to do much more got to go to work now. ON THE BUS!! Any suggestions? thanks.