viking

Can anyone confirm if the VTX75 manual gearbox as fitted to the Galaxy Mark 1 TDI is the same for the Sharan mark 1 TDI. The Audi derived diesel engine is shared by both manufactures. Gearbox code on the Sharan is ' DBW ' . The reason why I ask is that my local motor factors quoted automatic transmission oil for the Sharan/Alhambera and manual gearbox oil for the Galaxy.

One question that still seems to be without an answer : Is there a way of getting VAG.COM to communicate with the aux heater (Mark 1 model ) . Failing this , is it possible to reset the the ECU fault log within the heater using other means and I don't count going to main dealer or Eberspacher...

I had the same problem three and a half years ago. Wires fracture within the rubber gaitor. In my case the bared ends punchured the gaitor causing it to be replaced. I selected the same gauge wires, colour immateial and cut the lot out (about 40 to 50 CM). I then spliced each wire either end using slim bullet connectors. The joined wires were spread flatly to enable the trim to fit back into place. Eventually the problem will re-occur but that will happen even with a new loom. When it happens again all I need to do is unplug the wires and replace ! . Must be a hell of a lot cheaper than replacing the loom.

It's quite easy to replace but you must be careful not to trigger the airbag. I can only advise on the mark 1 1995 to 2000. Disconnect the battery for at least half an hour before starting work (most important). Centralise the steering wheel and pull the steering column adjusting lever up. Move the column down and outwards as far as it will go. Remove the 2 torx screws on the underside of the wheel. Carefully lift the airbag assemby from the wheel and disconnect the wiring connector. Put the airbag somewhere safe ! Remove the upper and lower steering shrouds, 3 screws underneath and 2 on top. The upper and lower shrouds will then unclip. Disconnect the airbag wiring connector. Now release the steering lock if it has engaged. Remove the bolt in the middle of the wheel and remove the steering Wheel carefully threading the cable out. When refitting torque up bolt to 40Nm or 30 lbf/ft. They say use a new bolt but Fords don't bother. Disconnect the 2 horn wiring connectors from the clockspring. Remove the 3 retaining screws and take off the clockspring. The new clockspring should already be centralised . If it is not then centralise the spring like this : depress the locking tab/plunger and rotate the outer rotor anti-clockwise until it becomes tight. Now rotate the outer rotor clockwise 2.75 turns then release the locking tab/plunger and make sure the rotor is locked . Now reassemble as above in reverse. Put a bit of molybdenum disulphide grease (same grease as used on cv joints) on the horn slip rings. After reassembly the fault code may need resetting.

While on the subject of aux heaters, I have a few questions which I was unable to find answers to in the archive : 1. On the Mk1's Vag.com will not communicate with the aux heater. Can anyone confirm if disconnecting the battery over night will clear fault codes logged in the ECU ? My heater is working ok at the moment so unable to check this. 2. Where is the best place to source the aux heater gaskets ? When it comes to changing the glow plug I will want to strip the unit and clean the combustion chamber.

Check the wiring loom on the rear hatch where it passes through the gaitor. Wires here often chafe and may be responsible for your problems.

Thanks for the reply. It's nice to be fore armed with correct info when dealing with garages, some can be trusted but a lot are out there trying to make a quick buck ! Checked the disc and sure enough stamped into the hub is minimum thickness in imperial and metric.

The MOT is due soon, Last year the MOT inspector pointed out that the front discs are worn and will need replacement by next year ! . I gave it a service last weekend. According to Haynes new discs are 25mm thick. Wear limit 21mm. Ckecked both discs with a micrometer, thinest measurement was 23.5 mm. Can anyone confirm what the wear limit is ?

It could be play in the transmission somewhere. The play when lifting the clutch can be felt more rather than heard. I reckon any free movement on that roll restrictor would cause the problem. I would be interested to know from others if any movement on the chassis end rubber bush is apparent. The only sure way to prove will be to replace the unit. At

I can get about 2mm of movement. Is that within limits ? I'm inclined to think there should be no movement by hand at all.

Been under the Sharan today giving it a general service. It's a Mk 1 1.9 TDI 90 bhp. I've noticed a slight 'clunking noise' in 1st & 2nd gear when lifting the clutch, nothing that bad and something you can eliminate if you're carefull. I suspect the engine roll restrictor is responsible for this but need a bit of advice from someone that has changed one. The mounting bolt between engine and roll restrictor is sound. The other end connecting to chassis has a little 'play' in it. If you try and rock the engine back and forth a little movement can be felt. Is this normal or is the rubber bush shot ?

It all looks good but won't you then be irritatated by buzzing/rattling noises from the speaker grills not being tightly secured. I have one speaker grill that does just that and its the original one.

In the past I had an airbag light on and the car still passed the MOT. Unless the MOT test has changed recently I think you will find airbag function is not part of the test. Best just ask at the MOT garage. I changed the clock spring under the steering wheel myself. There was an intermittent disconnection on the ribon wire. Cost of the new part :

The ones I looked at just seemed to rest in the wing mounting channels - the problem I would see is that the wing channels on a Galaxy have a considerable slope. Wouldn't this tend to make the feet slip, and how would the adjustment screw work so far away from the vertical? If this tool can be made to work effectively on a Galaxy, it would probably represent a very good investment for those who do all of their own repair and maintenance. I've seen them available for around

I'm only going to be doing this job on my own vehicle and looking for a safe cost effective way of changing the clutch. The engine must be suspended using either an engine hoist or overhead support beam. The cost of hiring a hoist might be near to the price of buying a Support beam (usefull to have for future diy maintenance). Just wanted to know if anyone had used one succesfully before I buy. Seen two weight categories, 300KG and 500KG. Any advise as to what would be most suitable to support the 1.9 TDI ?

That doesn't fill me with confidence. Ford use a support beam which rests on the inner lip of the wings but unsure how safe or fit for purpose a propriotory support beam will be, for example one manufactured by sealey tools.

Has anyone had any experience using a Sealey engine support beam to aid removal of the gearbox on a Mk1 1.9TDI ? If so, is it recommended and were any difficulties encountered. I might have to change the clutch at some stage so not sure if an engine hoist would be the better option.

The vehicle is a VW Sharan 1.9TDI yr 1997. I've had the car for over 2 years now, do all my own servicing and 'touch wood' it's been very reliable. This forum has been very helpful and has armed me with a lot of preventative information which brings me on to the subject of 'relay 109'. Read a lot of disturbing stories about this and understand that a modified relay in grey has replaced the black one. I checked the fuse panel on my car and see that relay 109 has a black case. Although I'm experiencing no problems at the moment, is it advisable to change it out anyway or is it just a case of re-soldering the suspect termination which seems to fracture! Also, are these relays main deler parts only or can someone advise where they are available and at what price ?

01133 Rear infrared sensor G-167 01135 Vehicle interior motion sensor 01142 Central locking - unlocking motor vw.DTC.overview.pdf

On one of the Injectors you will find a wire leading to the needle lift sensor. Check the connection of the connector at this point and if necessary get a replacement sensor....

I changed the air filter on my 90bhp TDI after 40K and it didn't look half as dirty as yours. You would be wise to change it before spending money on anything else.

Can anyone give a meaningful translation of a diagnostic trouble code generated from the central locking ECU on my Sharan TDI 1997. The code is 01144, derived using VAG-COM in the shareware version.