Brash

Hi Are you sure the switch is at fault? common problem is a broken wire in the drivers door/rubber boot area.

I recently found the leccy windows had stopped working from the drivers side switch! After a quick look in the FAQ technical it looked apparent that a wire in the door rubber gaiter might be to blame. Again after a quick look and a bit of soldering it was fixed.All the information and soldering guide was found on here and saved me countless hours trying the switch on the door etc.Only last month I also fixed the Auxiliary Heater with a new heater plug, and reset it using VAG Com using information from here. So its just to say a big thanks really for everyone who contributes to an excellent site. Cheers Brash

Hi Fitted the new glow plug on my Gal 130TDI yesterday. Just over 2 hrs to fit and seems to cure the smoking problem like yours. Without the thread in F.A.Q I would'nt have tackled this. :rolleyes: Cheers Phil

Had the same problem since resetting the fault codes with vag-Com. Heres the link to the one i got http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=54

Hi 27mm socket for the hub bolt and M12 star for the 6 drive shaft bolts. Regards Phil http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=19147&view=findpost&p=145887&hl=cv+inner+boot&fromsearch=1

Hi I've also had this problem since last year when my local garage replaced the fusebox but left the slightly damaged alternator cable.Ever since then I've suspected my battery was on its way out due to struggling to start on some cold mornings.I've since found out the fusebox is melting again so will be replacing the fusebox and alternator cable this time myself. Ford prices were

try this My link

Sorted Now Cheers

Hi Had the battery off today and lost the keycode Serial No is M014234 and its a 5000RDS Can anyone please help? Cheers Phil

I've rejointed mine twice and replaced the connectors/pipe that runs from the boot into the car because of a split crap plastic connectors. I'll only use consentrated screen wash now.Its only liquid between -5/-10 degs but will hopefully help.

Great! Cheers,Got this job to do soon. Did the other side last year, and put the pics on here with a wright up. I'll continue to buy the O.E.M boot kit and take off the car now then. Well Done and thanks for the contribution/advice.

Hi I Don't know about the starting problem, someone else will hopefully be able to help.As for the rear washer jet not working I'd be very carefull about using it if you don't know where the waters going.I had the same problem last year and found one of the joints in the washer pipe had popped open wetting the passager carpet.There's some electrical gubbins under the seat that you don't want to get wet.The washer pipe runs under the passager side carpet(lift up the door trim and you'll see a joint),then another joint is above the nearside rear post(check again in boot for wet carpet) then theres a joint where the pipe attaches to the rear washer motor in the boot lid.These joints are crap plastic things and i've had 2 pop open now.They do snap shut again but if you've checked the nozzles are'nt blocked and these's plenty of water in the reservoir maybe worth a look.

Had to buy the the socket wrench to undo my oil filter cap last year

Hi I've just refurbed my own using the spare one at a time.Cost

Hi I know ideally a good set of ramps would of been the way to go, but the car was totally safe with 3 housebricks widthways under each front wheel.(Rear wheels chocked) As for the oil remover, I believe its well worth the money and i'll invest in one for next time. :(

Hi As my contribution to this site I've decided to take pics and describe how I changed the engine oil on my 2004 1.9 TDI 130ps Ghia Galaxy.After reading different posts on here i decided on using Ford Sd oil from the Ford Dealer and O.E.M filter. 1st job was to take the cover off the engine under the Bonnet.This just lifts off two grommets and then slides towards you and lift it off.Thats when the Oil filter plastic cap arrangment became a problem and a 36mm Oil Wrench Socket HAD to be bought to remove the cover (too tight to remove with plumbers pliers).I also bought a new Oil Sump Plug because the original one has a copper like washer that crushes (Its a 19mm Hex Head in the middle bottom of pic) Run down of costs 1. 5 litre of oil and filter -

Hi iluvm Thanks for that, once again this was a job I'd not of done without the wealth of knowledge on this forum.Any comments like these are gratfully recieved and will hopefully go to help others on here.The next job will be an oil&filter change on my 2004 1.9 TDI 130ps.I'm hopeing to get pics this time and post on here. I've also done a quick search on here and decided to go for the Ford SD Special oil and genuine filter and do it myself.That way I know what oils going in , and not giving it to a backstreet garage to mess up. Once again thanks everyone on this site who've contributed in saving me

Hi Again Unfortunatly I havn't got a digital camera so no pics, but I got the cv boot changed successfully and its been ok now for 200mls .The order of replacement go's as follows; 1. Loosen large (27mm socket) centre hub bolt in middle of wheel (extremely tight) 2. Loosen 19mm socket wheel nuts. 3. Jack up the car and use axle stand to secure (so car is not supported by the jack). 4. Remove the wheel and remove the under engine tray( 4 bolts and 2 nuts with 10mm socket) 5. A star shaped male M12 socket bit is now needed to remove the 6 bolts on the engine side driveshaft cup.(use 1st gear to stop driveshaft turning) 6. Tie up drive shaft taking care not to bend the cv joints too much when removed. 7. Undo trackrod end ball joint (18mm socket) and bottom wishbone ball joint (21mm socket) and split joints.scissor type splitter needed so not to damage ball joint protection rubber. 8. Undo (using a 19mm Ring spanner) drop link bar using a (6mm I Think) allen key to stop it spinningand damaging protection rubber. 9. With the hub bolt inserted tap the bolt with a Nylon faced hammer to break the seal between hub and driveshaft. 10. Remove hub bolt and pull front strut towards you taking care not to drop the driveshaft. 11. Try to tie the strut to one side to make it easier for rebuilding (I did 'nt bother but it would be easier) 12. As soon as the front stut is pulled towards you with one hand you should find the drive shaft comes off in the other ( NO Gearbox oil will be lost due to the design of the cv joint cup arrangment). 13.Cut the old metal bands off the Damaged boot (Not the good one like I nearly did). 14. Pull the damaged Boot off taking notice which groove in the shaft and cup that the bands fasten in. 15. Remove the Circlip on the end of the driveshaft (new circlip supplied with boot) 16. Pull CV joint off splines and clean complete assembly. 17. Refit new boot , then cv joint, pack with grease and fasten metal bands with special pliers. 18. Rebuild and enjoy. P.S Ball joint will now spin whilst you try to do the nut up (use a spanner and allen key in the end to stop it spinning) I'm no mechanic and this may not be everyones way of doing it but after research and advice off here it took me approx 2.5 hrs to complete with a cup of tea half way If anyone wants to change and use this in F.A.Q for everyones benefit their more than welcome.

Hi I've noticed that its split. and the Gals only done 5k since its last mot last year so hopefully the cv joints ok. After replacing the discs and pads all round with information from this site ;) I was hopeing someone may have done this job before so could give me some advice on tackling it myself.I've bought the replacement rubber O.E.M boot and just need a few pointers to get me going. Thanks Phil

Hi I've just changed the front and back discs and pads on my 2004 Ford Galaxy 130ps 1.9 TDI. I used the information found on here and bought the Mintex discs and pads off e-bay for

Hi Everyone, We've been towing with our 1.9 TDI Gal now since April this year on various holidays.I have to say that I'm impressed with the ease that the old gal tows this caravan.Its a Fleetwood Garland 5 bearth (ex works weight 1100kgs) max laden 1400kgs.To be honest I try to put the weight in the back of the Gal and watch the noseweight doesn't go above 75-80kgs.Its our first Van and I bought the Gal specialy to pull it (Good choice)

Hello Owned our Mk11 Gal 130ps ghia since october 08 and I'm well chuffed with it.Its used for towing our Fleetwood Garland caravan which is 24ft long and weighs in at 1450kgs fully loaded.Diesel mpg when towing is quite reasonable at around 24mpg and 38ish when not.All in all this car is exactly what we as a big family needed (that was untill I reversed into a lampost today and snapped the drivers side mirror off its alloy bracket)whoops!

Me too A few more quotes needed too!