Phil

first thing i would check is the condition of ALL the vacuum pipes, check for perished or split pipes as well as blockages, if you are unsure if the fitting of the pipes is secure enough sling a cable tie around it to secure it. HTH Phil

Hi, I have had this several times, the fuel draining back is probably due to the fuel filter emptying whilst you were doing the job. the way i normally get these to start is to make sure all injector to fuelpump are tightened up and just release the left hand one just a tad to allow the air under pressure to release and try to start, if this doesnt work then i remove the wire from the diesel stop valve on the pump and link the valve to the + side of the battery, this makes sure the immobiliser isnt causing a problem and allows diesel to flow until the power is removed. HTH Phil

Hi, I recently had this on my 1998 1.9tdi Alhambra, it turned out to be play in the trackrod ends, i replaced both sides and its now gone. HTH Phil

Anyone Wanting To Retrofit the heated Front Screen as i have to my Alhambra, this is how i did it. Firstly a overview drawing of what we are trying to achieve: and now for the walkthrough for those that prefer REAL pictures Step 1: Route the two screen connectors into place. Step 2: Cut Pin 6 of the Front screen Switch and connect a wire to the switch side tail, and route the new wire to the fusebox area. Step 3: Find the only black wire in the P6 connector on the fuse box and cut it, connect a wire and connect to the loom side of the cut wire and connect the new wire to the black cable in the red connector. Step 4: Connect all the wires as shown and labelled in the pic. Step 5: Connect the Heavy Supply Cables to a suitable constant power feed, as you can see i used 2 wires this is because the rated current for the wire i got from halfords is 27Amp, this is not powerful enough for the supply, but 2 of these wires in parrallel can handle 54Amps. I hope the information i have compliled helps other prospective retrofitters.......mmmm what to do next.... Phil

Just an update to say that since i did my repair to the wipers they have been fine, they even survived the clearing of the snow and the appauling salt where salt was spread. They are still going strong 3 months on. Phil Task Fix Wipers: COMPLETE Task Retrofit Heated Screen: In Progress

Right Then, i decided that since there is a lack of info on the Screen Timer Relay i would take it apart and work it out. Below is the schematic drawing (Quickly Knocked Up) the dotted lines are connections i just dotted them so you can see what is connected and dont get the connections mixed up. So these are my Findings, based upon the resistor and capacitor values the timer runs for approx 5 Mins. Pin 15 of the relay is a SWITCHED 12v, switched by the ignition. Pin 31 of the relay is Constant Ground. Pin X is the +12v Supply to the Relay, this would be controlled by some ECU to only allow the relay to power if say the engine is running, wouldn't want to switch 50Amps on with the engine off. Pin T is the toggle Input for the timer relay, momentarily supply +12v to power the relay and start the count down, momentarily supply +12v again and the timer resets and powers down the relay, and so the cycle continues. Pin 30 and Pin 87 are the Relay Contacts With this info i will now be able to finish my project at the weekend and will take pictures and supply a step by step for you all to try the conversion. as a note Ford no longer sell the Front Screen Harness, so i got mine from the scrappys, but could be selfmade paying attention to the HEAVY duty power cables for the power and the screen connections.

Hi steve, i need how the relay connects to the switch, as i have everything else figured out now. yes this is for the heated front screen. Many Thanks Phil

Has anyone got this working?, i decided to retrofit the screen to my alhambra as the existing screen was cracked and due the MOT, so thought aha retrofit project. so i went to frauds and tried to order the loom, guess what it's discontinued, so off to the breakers and

can anyone give details of where i can purchase the Alternator Pulley as i have to replace mine as it has siezed and no longer free wheels. I have the Spine Tool, just cant seem to find someone that sells them at a price cheaper than replacing the Alternator itself...... Its for a 1998 SEAT ALHAMBRA 1.9TDI Thanks Guys. Phil

I have the same problem with my mk1 seat alhambra, i have changed the water pump, the radiator and the thermostat yet if i boot it all the way to work about 50mins away it will just about generate enough heat for the gauge to register 1/4 of the way If i drive as i normally would then im lucky it the gauge reaches half of that, 1 thing i have noticed is that the water system stays pressurised for a long time, if i leave it overnight then it will still be pressurised and the water level rises. i have flushed the system with a hose pipe with all heating valves open, the aux heater works fine (just replaced the glow plug in this as well). im going to take another look this weekend as you are all right in that it seems that the coolant isnt being restricted to the rad until it is at operating temp, which is the thermostat job, so im gonna check the operation of that, ill do the boiling water in a pan test, also will check that the coolant isnt somehow managing to get around the thermostat (e.g the rubber seal isnt fitted correctly). Phil

Glad it worked for you also ;) you didnt happen to take pictures did you? Phil

Thanks guys for your replies, but i have to hand the credit to seatkid, as i have revived the motor and all is well now. The problem was this: The lacquer had not covered the whole pcb and there was/is a very fine track which runs REALLY close to the edge of the pcb, so what i did was to use a fibreglass pen and clean up the lacquer until the loose stuff which had been penetrated was gone and this exposed the track i the bridged the broken track with a very fine piece of wire, since i couldnt find my can of conformal coating(lacquer) i borrowed the wifes nail varnish and gave it a good coating. sorry i didnt take any pictures as i wasnt sure if it would fix the problem and i had taken the motor out of the car 5 times already, so was just anticipating having to replace the motor. big thumbs up seatkid. and hopefully this will aid someone else that should read this later :) now on to the next problem, the non-operative booster heater :), ive read all the threads so testing the plug will be the first call i think :) Phil

hopefully someone will be able to help, i have a strange problem with my wipers, they have been working perfectly until monday and they started running all the time, the strange thing is this. with the ignition on and engine stopped the wipers work fine on all settings, so i assume the stalk is ok. if i start the car with wipers in the off position they are fine on all settings. so here's the wierd bit if i rev the car to around 1500rpm the wipers go on constant and will not stop until i turn the ignition off., also the ONLY setting that makes a difference is the VERY fast setting. and unplugging the stalk makes no difference either. PARK Switch i hear you say... well i stripped the motor down and copper greased ALL the shafts and there is NO sticking anywhere in the linkage. i checked the contact wipers on the park disc at the bottom of the motor shaft and they are making good contact, i even confirmed this with a multimeter, so i can only think the builtin wiper controller is KAPUT. so the vehicle is an R reg SEAT Alhambra 1.9tdi, the wiper motor fitted is a bosch 7m0 955 113 C, can any one tell me is it possible to replace with a motor that has the seperate controller such as the BOSCH 0390241430 so long as i have both the motor and the controller, i know i'd have to mount the controller and they both have the same amount of pins but would it work ok? I will buy a new one at some point, so just looking for a cheap and quick fix, other that putting a switch in the wiper power line :o Many Thanks

In an Ideal world that would be right, but as we are prone to the outside rules..., it might have some play, that said it shouldn't jump around like mad when fully locked either way, if it does i would say the tension spring has weakened and needs replacing. Phil

I Believe he is correct, BUT it could also be the alternator as it has a slip system that allows the alternator to spin slightly faster than the engine as the engine decellerates. There is a thread on this elsewhere on the forum. any other issues im cannot comment as i have a mk1 Phil

Hi im Phil from cambridge and have just brought an R reg Seat Alhambra.