BigDog

Just for the record, 3.5 years and probably 20k miles later I've still not bled it and the clutch drag and slip hasn't recurred. The pedal is still popping up and down when on and off the power. I think I'm the only one in this thread with this experience of clutch hydraulics magically fixing themselves, seems difficult to believe but that's the fact of it. Matt

Did the dealer you mentioned in the original post not recognise the part number 034903555B ? How about these: http://www.veedubmachine.co.uk/alternator-adjusting-screw-p-34.html http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALTERNATOR-ADJUST-SCREW-VW-GOLF-MK1-MK2-CORRADO-CADDY-T4-T25-Audi-100-80-A6-S6-/350778406177?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51ac05b521 or failing those Google 034903555B Good luck, Matt

Looking at Elsawin it looks like the input shaft has has taper roller bearings which bear on internal races so you would need to split the housing to replace the bearing if knackered. Call me a stoopid but if it were mine I'd drain the oil, check for anything metalic or broken bits coming out with the oil and if OK then fill up and carry on 'til it stops operating properly or is very obviously in distress. I'm not entirely sure I understand your description of when the rumble stops. Are you saying the rumble slows in frequency and stops when the car is moving, you press the clutch and a gear is in engagement or when the box is in neutral and the clutch depressed fully? Also are you saying the rumble stops only when the car comes to a stop (if it only happens when a gear is in engagement)? I would not follow your reasoning if the rumble stops during coasting in gear with the clutch down, because the input shaft is surely then rotating at a speed defined by the road speed and the trans. ratio. Do you get the rumble with the box in neutral and the clutch up (although without the bearings under load they may not make the noise anyway)? Could it be the release bearing - if this is partially siezed its face will spin against the clutch spring fingers at a speed that might vary as you describe; long shot though? Let me know if you want gearbox pdfs. Matt

That's the best bet. They should show you something like the attached, could it be no.15, "hexagon nut, shoudered?" Matt1997 tdi power steering pump.pdf

Basic equipment - Sharan.pdf Sharan fitting locations.pdf Let me know if these are not for your year, I think they should be OK. Have a look at the interior lights wiring section in the attached wiring diagram, pages 17-20. It looks like S157 could be responsible, find this in the other document, pages 9-10. Also it looks like BOTH sides of the interior lights get switched by relays, and again these look like they are on or in this Multi-Function Control unit. You can measure the voltage on P3/4 (read plug 3 pin 4) and P4/2 to work out what's going on. Matt

I don't think that would cause the problem - may not be related. One side of the handbrake switch goes to earth via a couple of junctions, I believe one of these can cause problems if damp gets into it (under passenger seat, via a leaking rear screen washer pipe junction on the A pillar?) and the other side goes to the dash panel insert. Since the dash panel has an ECU integrated, rather than a "dumb" bunch of bulbs and gauges directly connected to things, then it's likely to only use the switch to control a digital input to a microcontroller, and depending on the internal pull-up resistance and the method of measurement, you may not have been able to measure the voltage on the dash side of the switch. Use a digital voltmeter, these are high-resistance so you should see a few volts. Attached is hopefully the right schematic. Take a look at F9 on page 8. For your original problem, are your brake lights working or not, now you have replaced the foot-brake switch? Re-check fuse 5 and possibly you have a break in the wiring inside the rubber gaiter of the tailgate - see the FAQ section. Matt Basic equipment - Sharan.pdf

My brake pad warning lamp went on permanently. I changed the rear discs and pads today. As many have said, only the offside rear has the wear sensing wire. A pic of the new and old pads is attached if anyone else is interested. The wire is not embedded in the pad as I had initially imagined based on previous cars, but instead in a moulding that is attached to the pad anti-rattle spring. This gets cut through by the edge of the disc eventually. It is still a bit of a mystery to my why it was intermittent at first. Winding back the caliper pistons, I slackened the bleed nipples and caught the hydraulic fluid as others have said it's best not to force the fluid back through the ABS etc. I put Plastilube on the various sliding bits as it was recommended to me instead of copper grease. All seems OK, the lamp is out, so the wiring is good after all. :) Many thanks for the advice all. Matt

OK, sorry for switch confusion I am thinking of the wrong car. Matt

Welcome. Could be bulbs, switch or wiring. Seems unlikely to be all the bulbs. Lots of cars have broken wires inside the rubber gaiters near the tailgate hinges. Plenty of instructions on fixing, check the FAQ section. If I recall correctly, there are actually 2 switches actuated by the brake pedal. One of them is for the cruise control (whether you have cruise or not, the switch is there) and is pressed last as the pedal rises. The other is for the brake lights. Have you been working on right switch? Matt

When you say you can move the track rod end, do you mean there is play in the joint, or do you mean you can rock it? You do need to be able to rock it, since it must move with the suspension going up and down, there is a balljoint at the end of the rack (the inner end of the track rod) which will allow the whole track rod to be rocked a little by hand, but there should be no play in the in/out direction which allows the wheels to point in even slightly different directions. Possibly there is another explanation: When I got my Alhambra there was all sorts of shaking going on from the front and the back wheels. This was down to 2 problems: 1) The aftermarket alloys fitted by the previous owner had the wrong size centering rings fitted. 2) He hadn't realised the wheels were made for taper seating bolts and had fitted flat seat bolts. The combination of the above meant that every time you took a wheel off and replaced it, it would go back in a slightly different position and the wheel centres were not concentric with the hubs. One of the centering rings was so out of position that the wheel ran buckled just because it couldn't go down flat on the hub face. After getting the centring rings changed and a set of the proper seat taper bolts, the tyres balanced it was perfect. All the best, Matt

Acecard, I share the sentiment but sometimes it's not that easy - many dash warning lamp clusters carry LED lamps these days and then there's the eagle-eyed tester expecting to see lamps lit in the "bulb" test upon turning on the ignition. Mine beeps when the brake pad wear LED(?) re-lights too after start-up, Just my opinion, but with many faults of this type it could be easier for those of us lacking a sympathetic tester to solve the problem in the first place rather than go messing with the dash insert panel - and I'm a sparky (of sorts). I'm pretty sure sure the faulty wiring is going to be in the bit(s) that gets flexed every time the suspension or steering moves, the Honda which the Mrs. had went through a few ABS sensor cables in the same way. Matt

Many thanks gents, It didn't come back on since posting, and 2 or 3 short-ish trips. I am going to see how it goes for the few weeks before MoT time, and give the weather a chance to warm up maybe. Matt

What age and model is your Sharan? Can I suggest to add it to your info or signature. Looking at the wiring diagram for post 2002 tdi, there are 2 fuses in the battery compartment fuse box (7 and 8) and one in the under dash fuses (3) that seem to feed the ABS control unit. The only times I have had trouble with ABS it has been sensor wiring, but on a Honda. Matt

My brake pad wear indicator has come on but intermittently. According to the handbook only the front brakes are equipped with wear detection, and I see on the fronts, only the NSF wheel has it. The front pads have 8-9mm wear left. Since it works by breaking a wire embedded in the inner pad and that should be permanent until the pads are changed, I am figuring there is a problem in the wiring. I've seen on other posts that later cars have pad wear sensing on the back too. My rear outer pads are down to about 3mm and the discs are looking pretty ropey around the outer edge. Now, it is pretty difficult to see whether mine has rear pad wear sensing or not without taking the wheels off, and its not clear whether the wiring is with the ABS - there are three things leading to that area: 1) hydraulic pipe 2) handbrake cable 3) ABS sensor cable (possibly combined with pad wear) A couple of questions so I can gauge the urgency here: WIll the car go through the MOT with the pad wear indicator lit, even if the mechanic can see the pads are OK and brake test is alright?Anyone know if mine has rear pad wear sensing ('53 plate Alhambra TDI 115 AUY, basic spec.) to save me taking the wheels off and then putting them back on again to go and get the bits when they are needed assuming the Mrs is out in the other car (ok, maybe I am getting a bit lazy here)?Many thanks, Matt

It runs the whole time the engine is on and for a few minutes after turning off. With the run-on pump not turning or absent and bypassed, the auxiliary heater will not see enough coolant flow, so it will cut-out on overheat. Frankly I am sceptical about the cooling effect on the turbo and cylinder head. There are plenty of VAG TDI engined cars which have no aux heater and no run-on pump and the turbo bearings and oil pipe are just fine if you change the oil regularly, possibly even the exact same engine codes, though I've not checked. IMO the pump runs on because the aux heater needs the flow to carry on while it cools down, the same reason the aux heater itself carries on running for a little while after turn-off. Matt

Did you see this thread? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/25234-galaxy-19tdi-wont-start/?hl=bigdog&do=findComment&comment=177540 All the best, Matt

Welcome to the forum. Can I suggest you check topics 37 and 61 in in the FAQ section and also search the forum for "winch" and come back if it is still not clear? All the best, Matt

See attached, hopefully this will be of some use to you guys. climatronic servicing in car.pdf

IMO if the car shows no sign of overheating then I would doubt there's a need to immediately replace the timing-belt driven water-pump. Check the FAQ section, topics 54 and 75 are relevant for the electric run-on pump. Topic 1 is for the aux heater. From experience, fixing the run-on pump increases flow through the front heater matrix at idle so makes the heater more effective. In addition in my case the aux heater started working, the rear heater matrix got flow so the rear of the car could be heated as it's meant to be. With everything working the system heated up much quicker too, rather than being dependent on waste heat from the engine alone. From the photo it looks like there are some heavy white deposits, possibly from a slow coolant leak. The deposits seem to be on top of the black plastic of the run-on pump impeller housing. Does the car need the coolant topping up regularly? I would expect the deposits to be pink like the coolant though.... unless you are using a different colour antifreeze? All the best, Matt

DLT you beat me to it. Try Ebay item #370755199139. "Genuine" £60 delivered seems best price on Ebay.

It looks to me like the part you need is 038 971 600. Maybe there is a pattern part available, at least you can use that to google for it. Have a look at the attached, from Etka I think it is item 30, seems to be €42 plus VAT a few years a go so I would guess a bit more than £50 now. I don't know what they are talking about with 038 971 121 in the remark column though. What mileage are you at, I'm expecting to need to do mine in the not-too-distant, I'm coming up to 160,000 miles. Matt AUY + engine electrics.pdf

Not sure of your son's engine code or age, but here's a couple of pages from Etka, pretty much at random and assuming this part is in the brake servo vacuum pipework, rather than something to do with sensors for ignition timing or injection control. The 2.0L engine code from the years I chose is either ATM or ADY, but might be others too. If the part is on these pages, looks like the broken bit isn't available separately. Let me know if you need something different looking up. Matt vac pipes 2.0L Sharan 2002.pdf vac pipes 2.0L Sharan 1997.pdf

Probably barking up the wrong tree here... anyone else want to chime in? Daz, if you have a laptop but don't have a diagnostic lead then they are under £7 on Ebay and are useful. This is the Ross-Tech info I was on about before - it is a speed limit not a rev limit after all (I was recalling wrong). NB: Note the warnings and caveats on the webpage: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html See "Special adaptations: Login code 12233:" channel 18 Yours is a PD engine and in theory the special adaptions don't apply. Might still be interesting to login using 12233 and check the value in channel 18 though. DON'T change anything after logging on with this code, just use it to read the values.

My colleague's sprocket wasn't loose but did move from one end of the wear range to the other when "ragging it" through the gears, whereupon the timing shifted, misfiring began and power was lost. I think the way it is bolted on disguised the wear, only when his mechanic took the sprocket off did he see the wear, (this was the third mechanic and after a new fuel pump and lots of expense). good luck.Matt

Naturally this is not a concern on the public roads ;-) Is it the same in 5th and 6th (IIRC 86mph and 5th is lower than redline revs)? i.e. is it revs or definately speed which is limited? Some, or possibly all of the ECUs in the VAG TDIs have a rev limit which is adjustable in VAG-COM or VCDS-Lite but only DOWN according to what I have read (hard to imagine why). Could it be this? Is it the same uphill and downhill - (I realise you only get gentle hills on motorways) It might be best to get a diagnostic lead and laptop and read your fault codes - plenty of advice how to do that on this forum. Matt