MatTdi

Paul, try and get the fault codes from the garage, if it logged any, that should help in the diagnosis. I reckon you will get a 17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation, which can be caused by sticky VNT or in my case the T-map sensor failed and registered manifold pressure at over 2000mb so as soon as boost pressure builds it trips in to limp mode, once i replaced it the readings came back down to ~1000mb and bosst worked correctly, alternatively the garage may have knocked a pipe whilst changing the rad and waterpump.... If you can get hold of a VAG lead and the software you can easily check the readings on measuring block 011 or get the garage to check the readings for you. Good luck M@

BDM2510, I would agree with NikpV the water pump is the most likely culprit. When the pump died on my PD I got identical symptoms as yourself, I was able to drive around on short journeys with no problems but when under load the temp would rise and then fall when stationary as the rad fans will remove the heat quickly, the PD engine is so efficient it generates little extra heat, this can be seen in the winter when the booster heater will cycle in and out with the engine running to maintain the water temp required for efficient heating. When the engine is at temp if you check your lower radiator hose it will probably feel cold as the pump is not circulating the water, the heat rises and you could on mine hear boiling noises in the top of the block, this is whats causing the extra pressure in the system and causes the system to vent.... and dont let any garages try and fob you off with a head gasket fault unless you witness the test yourself. Have a look at http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ic=4461&hl= Sorry for the long post Good luck M@

Hi Guys and Gals, Just a quick update, I took the cam cover off and unplugged each injector and tightened up the crimps in to connectors, gave her an oil and filter change. I have driven around for about an hour or so and so far no misfires, so its fingers crossed. Any of you wonderful people near MK with VAG as I would like to check and clear the codes without having top re-mortgage the house.... Thanks again M@

Hi Guys & Gals, My Bammer has started to misfire after it gets up to temp, ie oil temp over 90c, the time it takes to start varies. I had the codes read by a local garage and got (without numbers not very helpful I know): Injector no1 circuit error cam position sensor error (multiple entries) I gambled on the cam sensor so I have changed it, and it still misfires.... Looking at the threads on here I reckon im in the same boat with a dodgy connection, will it be on No1 cyl and which side is No1? Its gonna have to wait till next weekend totake the top off and check it all out, its alos in need of an oil change - any possible connection?? Thansk in advance M@

Hi all, any idea how you get to the motors for the pop ups?, I think they have siezed as it now blows the fuse when you try and clean the screen, I would like to try and fix it or at least add it to the list of things to do.... Thanks in advance for any ideas!! M@

Adrianf, I have the accelra's on my bus, i reckon there great, have been on for about 10k so far and seem to hold up to the Milton Keynes roundabout syndrome well. They seem to hold well in the wet and are one of the quietest tyres I have had so far... M@

John, I think that one of the cheapest deals around is Compressor Tech have a look at Flyer Hope this helps M@

Latrine, Glad to hear I was able to help you get it fixed, its nice to be able to return the favour of all the help this forum has given me along the way!! Now all i have to fix is the dreaded air con again!!! Take it easy M@

I love this forum!!! When you know give me a PM Thanks in advance M@

I had the exact same thing happen to me, It was the field coil going open circuit, I was lucky enough to find one on that popular auction site for a tenner and changed it on the drive, kept me going for another 30k and now the clutch plate has exploded :) so I am on the look out for one anybody got one lying around they would like to exchange for pound notes?? Good luck M@

Hi Latrine, The lack of heating happened to me as well after I changed the stat, I guess you get a small air pocket and with out circulation from the pump it air locks the heater matrix. Have a look at My saga Hope this helps and be lucky M@

I had the exact symptom and it was the waterpump, the impeller had detached from the shaft. see attched image. I even had one grage trying to tell me that the head gasket had gone :D and we wonder why garages get a bad name.... Its a cambelt off job to change the pump so if your near that time I would get the belt, tensioner and pump changed. If you want anymore info on my symptoms give me a shout M@

BlueArmy, You didnt say if yours is a PD or not. I had the exact symptom and it was the waterpump, the impeller had detached from the shaft. see attched image. I even had one grage trying to tell me that the head gasket had gone :D I hope things work out ok M@

Hi Oggy, I also have a 2002 (Feb)on a 51 plate SE Alhambra and it has the following: radio cassette (scala) and 6 disc atochanger No steering wheel radio controls No parking sensors No sunroof Heated Front Seats Climate Control front only Auto dipping rear view mirror Front fogs Head light washers Sports seats x6 Sports suspension - the main reason getting the Alhambra over the Gal Swivel front seats 6 electric windows Key operated all windows open / closed Cruise control Computer Roof rails. Electric adjustable and folding wing mirrors Heat front screen Speed controlled front wipers 2 remote keys I have only seen parking sensors on a couple of Alhambra at aroung 2000 - 2002 before that changed the names of the models. Hope this helps M@

MrT, I have had a quick google around and found this LINK for the Address 08 Climatronic MPV GP 0003 00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129) 35-00 - - error, it has an extract from the DTC error code manual and goes into some troubleshooting. Hope this helps M@

Well the bits are changed and she's passed!!! The TRE came off real easy, I just need to get it tracked, the Brake hose was more difficult to change as the pipe unions did not want to come undone, but after a bit of swearing it all came apart. Toppped up the fluid and bled the breaks all is well. Just need fix my aircon again!! Thanks as ever M@

Guts? Or Balls? We've all heard about men having guts or balls. But do you really know the difference between them? In an effort to keep you informed, the definition for each is listed below. GUTS - Is arriving home late after a night out with the guys, being assaulted by your wife with a broom, and having the guts to ask: "Are you still cleaning, or are you flying somewhere?" BALLS - Is coming home late after a night out with the guys, smelling of perfume and beer, lipstick on your collar, slapping your wife on the ass and having the balls to say: "You're next." I hope this clears up any confusion on the subject. :P

well enough knowledge and tools to service it, change discs and pads and half my aircon.... I have never had to change a track rod end before, are they twist off once you have seperated the joint?? or is it on TIS as I dont have mine with me at work.... Thanks in advance

Happy new year to you all.... My Alhambra failed the MOT today :P The fail sheet states: Excessive play in OSF track rod end ball joint Excessive chaffing on osf brake hose I have not been able to have a visual check yet but will do tonight. Does any of the above sound expensive? and can it be done by myself or will it need a garage? Thanks in advance as ever M@

Marty, For the small cost involved it may well be worth changing the water pump, it does cause some very strange symptoms.. As the standard fit pump is a plastic impeller pressed on to a knurled metal shaft it is always possible that when it all gets hot expansion causes the impeller to slip on the shaft untill this happens http://img.photobox.co.uk/895200112ab10e507846bf182fa2bc42c050d1314addf46908f5e85b.jpg The advice that these guys and especially MM gave me saved me a lot of grief have a look at Overheating Good luck M@

Marty, My Alhambra is pretty much the same, the temp gague goes to 90 and stays there, the oil temp in mine will rise slightly depending on how hard its is pushed... When my water pump went the temp gauge would only rise when the engine was pushed hard and then return to normal very quickly after slowing down. The cold hose I think is how it is normally, as mine is always cold or luke warm, the efficiency of the engine is just that good it just doent get hot. Even now my aircon is poked and the fans are not spinning it still dosent get warm..... Are you sure you do not have an airlock? Regards M@

I reckon your in dire straits with this one...... :lol: M@

A vacationing penguin is driving through Arizona when he notices that the oil-pressure light is on. He gets out to look and sees oil dripping out of the motor. He drives to the nearest town and stops at the first gas station. After dropping the car off, the penguin goes for a walk around town. He sees an ice-cream shop and, being a penguin in Arizona, decides that something cold would really hit the spot. He gets a big dish of vanilla ice cream and sits down to eat. Having no hands, he makes a real mess trying to eat with his little flippers. After finishing his ice cream, he goes back to the gas station and asks the mechanic if he's found the problem. The mechanic looks up and says, "It looks like you blew a seal." "No, no," the penguin replies, "it's just ice cream."

Isn't 60K in Kms pretty close to 40K Miles?? maybe thats where the confusion comes from... Just a thought M@

Thanks I will try and give them a call for the weekend...