Another?Maybe!

Sorted my rattle out as well... thanks SeatKid for the really useful photos re pollen filter. I suspected noise was coming from where the wiper mechanism is so removed the bulkhead cover thingy which gives access to the pollen filter. Length of curved grooved plastic fell out when I removed the cover, couldn't see where this fitted so left it out when replacing the cover. Result... no more rattle....wonderful! Don't know what the piece of plastic is though but I reckon it must have been left loose after service done b4 I collected the car so can't have been doing much then....it's not doing anything now as is in my garage!! (Except not driving me mad with it's noise) PeteR PS. Problem with this site, getting error 404 + message in Spanish or Italian. Got in through a link in my e-mail...don't ask!

Hey Matt.... thought you had a custom fluted bonnet.... until I realised it's a reflection of the garage door!! PeteR

Replaced the blades on my previous Gal.... 2001/51. Cost

Serious question now, do you get much wheel spin from the front wheels when starting off towing? I can get quite a bit solo in damp conditions if not careful, probably not helped by the diesel's low down torque. When I used to tow with Mondeo was liable to getting stuck on wet sites 'cos of FWD. Maverick I had later was no problem as was RWD. PeteR

Hi Matt.... 5 births, how many boys & girls & were they all born in the caravan?! Sorry, couldn't resist that one! Our local paper consistently gets birth & berth mixed up in it's ads for caravans for sale... very amusing! PeteR

SeatKid Used your wonderful instructions & photos to remove the bulkhead cover as I had an irritating rattle from under there... thought it might be something to do with the wiper mechanism. Anyway, as I removed the cover a long thin piece of plastic fell out, I had a good feel around under the wipers, etc & couldn't find anything loose & I couldn't see where the plastic bit fitted! It's about 3 foot long, thin with grooves and curved. As I coudn't see where it fitted & it didn't seem vital I left it out when I put the cover back... and, guess what, the rattle is no more. I reckon this plastic strip must have been hanging loose inside the cover.... car was serviced b4 I collected it so pollen filter might have been replaced and strip dislodged... and was cause of rattle. But do you or anyone have a guess at what it is and where it should fit? It was hard enough getting the cover back in place, I'm not surprised it was loose. And will any damage be caused because it is resting in my garage & not under the bonnet! PeteR

MartinSurfer Kwikfit do a pricematch deal although they don't seem to advertise it very much (or they did when I had 2 fronts from them last year) Sounds like you have paid their list price whereas if you quote lower prices obtained from other tyre retailers they will match. I had 2 2020s from them for just over

Ivor.... what's the other thread?? PeteR

Taliska.... I also have a rattle from under the dash somewhere... had it for a while but loath to take to dealers for dash removal as may then find other problems appear! Mine seems to come from near wiper linkages at front but wipers need to come off to get at this. Not too keen on pursueing this. Will be interested in your success rate! PeteR

Looks like we've got off the topic chaps with this Sky thing! I need help/advice... Have a metallic rattle from in the dash somewhere. Sounds like something is loose, ie not clipped down or tight enough, pipe or linkage... suspicion is that it's something to do with the wipers linkage as banging a fist under the bonnet under the windscreen seems to reproduce the sound... I think. But looks like the nuts holding the wiper arms have to come off before the shroud over the linkage can be got at... I think! Any ideas/advice? It's definitely a rattle rather than a buzz so can't blame the bees. PeteR

Testing my brake pedal tomorrow.... def going back to dealer if it goes down to floor.... no way would I drive in this condition... as said earlier, there is absolutely no reason for this to happen if system is working correctly. Dangerous or what? PeteR

Theoretical cut-in temps are in the hand-book(!), outside temp +/- coolant temperature. Having said that, mine runs at a higher outside temp than handbook states.... or maybe temp on computer read-out is incorrect...and on a short journey home the other night it wouldn't stop after we arrived! Had to get back into car and switch the 'ignition' on and off again to stop it running.... obviously has a mind of it's own as previously suggested!! ... and the smell of the fumes are horrible, not diesel smell at all... or maybe it's the cheap Froggie diesel I'm using at the moment?! PeteR.

How do you get the driver's one uppermost? This would help to reduce the large blindspot I have now when raining as driver's side wiper is underneath.

Also, engine configuration under the bonnet is different for the 130ps from the other diesels. (or maybe it's just the plastic cover which goes over the engine!) Anyway, have a look in the handbook in the 'engines' section.... is a diagram there for each of the engines used which should make it all clear... that's if you have a handbook of course..... see other posts! PeteR

My 2004MY 130PS Ghia manual has a knob on seat for lumbar support but it doesn't seem to do much whichever way you wind it, whereas you could feel movement in my previous model. As to a 'miles to go' feature on the computer, my friend had one of these on his V6, coming up M1 once, he was showing off with hadving several miles to go, then, suddenly it gave a zero read-out... we had to leave at next junction and panic for a petrol station. Maybe that's why they have been removed in our compensation seeking environment... if you run out of fuel after believing the read-out, it must be the car manufacturers fault & hence a compensation claim!!

I was thinking the same, Fredt! Reading the handbook would save a lot of the questions posted on this site... and the newer the handbook, the more info it contains, I am still learning from mine. Trouble is, the index is cr*p, the red light in my drivers door was flashing after I was inside the car with engine running, I knew I had read info in the h'book b4, but could I find it again when I needed it and the index was useless? Had to read through the book again to find info. Maybe older cars have lost their book but Ford dealers should still carry spares, at a price or free if you are cheeky enough! Worth chasing up. PeteR

Ian..... car is Ford Direct with 7500 on the clock. still on the orig 4 Michelins. Ford website & latest Galaxy brochure lists steel spare on all models, even the optional wheels. As I said, bit cheapskate unless Ford think risk of corrosion of spare if alloy and not cleaned regularly. Had alloy spare on my previous and that was ok when i used it to replace one of the worn fronts. Strange? Think the stalling is down to my driving technique. I've always assumed you only use first gear when stopped, second will do whenever car is rolling. Think with this engine setup I need to get some revs on before letting the clutch up to prevent the stall. As I said, very unusual for a diesel, must have a very light flywheel.

As you know, I've just changed my 2.3 to a 130PS diesel. Sometimes, when slowing down for an in-town corner, turning into my drive, etc and dropping into 2nd gear, the engine stalls. I was under the impression from past experience and discussion, that it is impossible to stall a diesel engine... but Gal diesel has proved me wrong and other Gal diesel owners I have spoken to have experienced the same. Need to remember to change driving technique and get some revs on before letting clutch up in these circumstances. But could be quite dangerous... yesterday on M1, pulling into Toddington for a break and negotiating the complicated car parking directions I suddenly found I had no brakes and no steering.... engine had stalled but because was noisy outside I hadn't realised. Just missed one of the concrete walls! Guess if you have auto box this doesn't happen but any other diesel owners had same experience??

In reply to 'Sparks' original question on this post..... I think if you want dual rear air-con you will have to go for the latest, 2004 MY facelift. I have just swapped my old 2.3 for a 53 2003 (2004 MY) with cruise as standard and aircon vents in the headlining for each individual 2nd and 3rd row seat for

I have a copy of the Haynes manual(up to Aug 2000) which has a couple of paragraphs on "Fuel filter draining". Quite a few bits to remove before you can get at it and text doesn't actually say what you are draining! But a photo description says 'slacken cap to drain water'. This is part of Haynes 10,000m service so should be done by dealer I assume (dangerous!) A previous car I had was Ford Maverick (Terrano) diesel. On this the fuel filter was fixed to the bulkhead, easily getattable with a tap at the bottom and a 'drain water symbol' in the instruments. But I never had to drain it and, knowing my dealer, they never drained it either. Guess as the filter on the Gal is pretty inaccessible it's not too important between services? PeteR

If you get your 'proper' replacement tyres for much less than

KwikFit do a pricematch deal so find someone who offers you a cheap deal and take it back to KW!! My Gal, which I have just passed on, had Dunlop 2002s on, which have 'reinforced' writen on the sidewall. You need reinforced because Gal is like a Transit van. Imagine carrying 7 rugby players + their luggage, that's the possibility the tyres have to be prepared to cope with, hence 'reinforced'. I suppose, during the lifetime of the vehicle, if you know it will carry much less weight you could get away with 'less' tyres but you don't know what happens if you trade it on, would you be responsible? Also, code on sidewall includes a 'speed rating' as I found out when KW said had correct match in stock but when (genuine) fitter actually saw tyre said 'in stock' didn't match speed rating and needed to order correct tyre in to match. Just be careful in saving money.

Why is a 2002 Gal going for MOT?? Surely it's 3 years b4 you need one?

Thanks Dave + others. Decided to return to dealer for advice and to sort. The engine cover, as you say, is on 2 lugs at the front and a clip at the back.. so to remove, lift up at the front until clear, then just pull forward out of back clip. Didn't just want to use brute force in the wrong direction! As to the oil in the well around filler cap... they replaced cap with a new one. Apparently, oil filler caps that do not seal properly are not uncommon on (diesel?) Gals.

Urgent! Can someone help re advice on removing the engine cover, please? If I am going to take it back, as looks likely, I would like to have a look at engine, etc. before I do. Thanks.