ant192

I assume that you are refering to adjusting the beam alignment, this is a manual process and one of the few things that vag-com cannot do for you. Do a search for beam alignment to find out more..

I'm hoping for some help/advice to get the galaxy back on the road - If there is anyone on here that has done this please let me know your experiences. So, for background, a bit of steam and loss of coolant from an unseen area right down at the back of the engine prompted me to take the gal (mk2 v6) to the garage for a bit of investigation. According to the garage i have a leak in my heater matrix which is likely to set me back 600 as they need to take the dash out to reach it. 600 is simply not an option for me at the moment and by the looks of some of the posts neither is doing i myself. I've taken the car home and what i think i'd like to do is bypass the heater matrix for the time being and get the matrix replaced when i can afford to. By taking out the tray below the wipers i can see 2 hoses running vertically at the back of the engine bay, are these the two that run up (or down?) into the heater matrix? I would assume that i just need to introduce a u bend into the system at this point - any thoughts on plastic/copper/rubber and how to secure the new section of pipe? Also does anyone know the diameter of this bit of pipe. Thanks as always

Ok, a little update. I took the car to get the wheels aligned on sunday. That seemed to straighten the steering wheel. When my husband got home on monday (yay) he reset the basic setting on the steering angle sensor with vag-com, and hey presto, no ESP warning light. So it would appear that little problem is fixed. My car still makes a horrible grinding noise though, we checked the suspension and wheel bearings today and there appears to be no problems or play in anything. So i'm a bit stumped now. I've been using the car reguarly, it may just be me getting used to it but when i have been driving a while (i mainly do short journeys) it seems to get a bit quieter. like something warming up. We made a couple of other discoveries today too, firstly the car had an EVAP emissions fault code which we found out was me not putting the fuel cap on properly!! Secondly that the garage that did my gearbox have decided to hang on to my engine and battery cover (in addition to

The noise is maybe slghtly worse. In a way i just want whatever it is to break so that i know what it is! My hope is that the noise, steering off-centre and steering angle sensor code is all the same thing. From reading other forums, the tracking being out could make the sensor record a fault, and it needs calibrating: From ross-tech wiki 00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85): Mechanical Failure Possible Causes * Steering Angle Sensor (G85) Basic Setting lost * Steering Angle Sensor (G85) Installation Position incorrect * Suspension Geometry incorrect - Could this mean tracking/wheel alignment? From the sounds of it i have to then re-calibrate the sensor - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/VW_Sha...s_(MK25)#Coding I've borrowed some axle stands and trolley jacks so the plan for the weekend is - tracking on sat (anyone have any advice on where, what type what price etc) then if necessary have a good look underneath at bushes, bearings to try to find the source of the noise. Anything else i should check while i'm there? wish me luck ;)

Right, called the garage today to find out if its ready. they told me that they have had the box out stripped down (took 2 days?) but still cannot find the cause of the noise. they say that the noise is still there though. The prognosis was "could be a wheel bearing or summit, love". great Luckily my hubby is back next week, but he will be as stuck as me i think. I forgot to ask if the tracking had been done, would dodgy tracking cause wheel bearing noise?

Ok, car has gone back to the gearbox specialist, the mechanic came out with me on a test and fortunately it seemed to be particuarly noisy, which i guess made him take me seriously! Still a bit tight lipped on what he thought may be wrong tho. They've kept the car overnight, its going on the ramp tomorrow, and he conceeded that he may have to take the box out again, which he seems reluctant to do and will take a couple of days. Just goes to show, make sure that if you get work done - that you are clear that it is guaranteed for a period of time. Regarding the steering angle sensor and wheel alignment, I read on a audi forum that wheels that need tracking would give a steerig angle sensor problem, so this could well be a simple fix. I know that they were ok when it went in, how would the garage taking the engine/box/subframe out affect the traking? I'll post when i hear back from the garage Vicki

Cheers for all your help guys! I'm going to call the garage tomorrow and explain that the noise/vibration has got worse and that i'd like them to check the tracking and driveshafts and try to find the problem. I'll post what happens over the weekend.

Hi guys, hoping that someone can help me with the problem on my mk2 v6 auto gal. My gearbox broke a few weeks ago and after shelling out

Finally got the car back today. Posting for info in case anyone else gets the same problem and wants to know how much it will cost. After telling the gearbox specialist that i couldnt afford to have the car repaired and would have to tow it home they dropped the asking price by

Hello just a quickie, I have a MK2 early X reg Gal, with a VR6 Autobox that is kaput. Think i have found a box for

Oh anyone know my gearbox code or whether there is a haynes for the engine/box/car?

The back band has broken and scored the drum. New gearbox

Well, I checked the linkages inside the car under the selector and they were fine. I did have some misfire faults on the VAG-com but I think they are prob no related and linked to another problem i had recently. I have booked it into a gearbox specialist in Hove (any1 used it?, comments) so just waiting to see how many kidneys i will need to sell now! Someone mentioned the reverse gear solenoid to me since, anyone have any knowledge on this?

hahaha very good

Any1 out there with any expertise in this area? PLEASE! my wife is due any day and I really can't afford garage prices!

As I thought VAG-COM shed no light on the problem. Any V6'ers out there seen this problem of no reverse before? Are the linkages both at the box and at the selector a part that tends to fail/worth checking? How about checking autobox oil, is it a pain in the ass and would dirty/low oil cause me to loose a gear?

Hey guys, hoping someone on here can offer me some advice... Drove to the shops, went to reverse out of space and nothing happened.The selector moves into R no problem, but it feels like in neutral even with revs. Luckily i waited for the car in front to go and drove home forwards. Have a full range of forward gears but nothing in reverse. I Have brake and reversing lights fine, when i engage D from P there is a noticable slight lurch as it leans o the brakes in gear, when i put the car in R there is a slight engaging type noise and feel, but no drive. I'm going to dig out my vag com leads later but im not sure it will help too much. Fingers crossed no new box!!!! Think there would def be one fewer v6 gal on the road if that were the case! Cheers, Ant (MK2 X REG v6 2.8 Gal)

Ok got this problem sorted now, so just an update if anyone has the same problem. Bought new connector from http://www.simtekuk.co.uk (thanks sepulchrave) for

From my earlier post I lost a coil pack, which melted itself to the bit on top where the lead plugs on to the coil and got damaged removing it. I need urgently to get that part. I'm pretty sure that fraud will only sell me the whole wiring kaboodle which is not ideal, so that leaves me with only scrappys and private breaking. Just need to cut the wiring plug off to rewire it to my leads. Can anyone recommend a scrappies in the south? You don't see too many v6 mk2 gals so think my chances may be fairly slim, is it possible that a vr6 from, say a vw golf will have the same setup with the pencil ignition coils? Cheers guys!

While driving i had an odd plastic-electrical burning smell and a bit of a misfire with an engine man light, drove another few hundred yard to find somewhere to stop and the thing just completely died on me. looking inside the bonnet it looked like I had smoke coming out of 3 of the cylinders where the leads go in and i feared the worst. Luckily the RAC man knew what he was doing, turns out that my coil on cylinder 3 had gone open circuit, completely melted (i mean absolutely absolutely oblitterated) and had taken a little while to knock out the the 20 amp fuse to kill the engine. The coil had melted itself to the wiring plug on top and despite our best efforts we couldnt get it off without damaging the plug. The RAC man's advice was to go to scrappies and cut the plug off another loom and wire it into mine, and of course get another coil. Any thoughts? I'm imagining ford won't sell me the plug, just the whole wiring for all 6 coils. This is the second coil that has gone on my mk2 X v6 in the 6 months i've had it. Is there anything that could be causing this? Finally any thoughts on whether it will be OK to drive it 30 miles to my nearest scrappy on 5 cylinders. Any help appreciated, thanks for the excellent site!

picked up coil pack from ford (30 quid or so) and fitted it. The engine light did not go out so i disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and since then she feels and sounds better and no engine light after a long drive. Thanks to everyone on this fabulous forum who helped me to sort it. Now to fix all those other problems.......

Thanks for the excellent post MrT. If it is as easy as you have made it sound it would be almost criminal to pay a mechanic to do it!

Unbelievably i found the chip (these things are tiny) on a gravel driveway this morning, put it in the key and it still works! A lucky escape. I still have the misfire on cyl 2 to contend with, might just get the garage to mend it. What's a good price for a fitted coil pack? I assume they have to reset fault codes too.

No joy, Couldn't find the chip anywhere. Going to try my metal detector and the drive in the morning but i'm not confident. What are my options now? I have just one remote key with no chip in it- how much is it gonna cost?

Ok pats chip - what does it look like? haven't got the car yet but need to get to it before the garage decides to start charging me for unnecessary work!