Hi, Sorry for the late post but I only just found this forum (my first post) I had a MAF go bad on me a few months ago. Initially, I used a multimeter to measure the output voltage at several RPMs and recorded the following voltages - 900 RPM = 1.85V (should be approx 2.2V) 1500 RPM= 2.35V (.. 2.9V) 2000 RPM = 2.56V (.. 3.4V) 2500 RPM = 2.86V (.. 3.6V) 3000 RPM = 2.98V (.. 3.8V) (obviously this is going to be dependant on the exact fault - your MAF sensor may behave differently). The above was measured on a 1.9 TDi engine - I assume that the bigger cc engine air intake would give a proportionately higher mass air flow for the same RPM?. I found it easier to measure the voltage using a pin to push through the wire insulation on the harness to the MAF (pin 5 on a Bosch MAF sensor). I found there wasn't much of a voltage drop between the MAF ground wire and the battery negative, so I used the battery for the meter common. Still not convince that it was the MAF, I made up an OBD cable and used VAGCOM to check 'specified MAF' against 'actual MAF' and this clearly indicated that the MAF was bad. On a motorway run, specified MAF was around 650mg/R wereas actual was about 490mg/R. There were no DTC fault codes reported. A new MAF sensor fixed all the problems. One final note, only this weekend the galaxy had similar problems (lack of power). This time I had a fault code for Charge Pressure Control Deviation (P1550). This turned out to be a loose/ corroded vacuum pipe on the charge pressure control valve for the turbo. It is definitely worth checking the vacuum pipes (and the air filter) before investing in a new MAF if you don't have the diagnostics. Regards Phil