sniper

BTW - includes MOT till Jan 2010 (FWIW lol.) I'll also include a pair of roof rack bars.

Anyone interested? I need to be rid of it in the next 2 weeks.

Northampton The tyres are Dunlop Sport 215/55 R 16 95 H

Ok, to be fair, it's very much a spares or repairs type of deal - it blew a piston ring yesterday, and has done over 153000 miles, so despite the fact it still runs (rough!), someone might be interested... I fitted 2 new front tyres 3 weeks ago, so that's about

Went to the dealer's parts department this morning, only to find that not only did 'relay 30' seemingly mean nothing to them, the diagrams on their computer system don't show it either! After a bit of clicking around, the relay marked R27 was indeed the one we were looking for - it is the 'power relay' - it supplies the power to the injectors etc. The relay directly below it (number 167) is the actual fuel pump relay. Anyway, I ordered both - will hopefully have them tomorrow. Meanwhile, I did some more checks - like making sure that fuse 14 (20A) was ok - it feeds both the relays. When I turn the ignition key, although some of the relays are clearly operating, I can't hear the fuel pump priming, and the door LED starts flashing continuously. I'm hoping these are all symptoms of the power/pump relay problems described here and elsewhere.

After removing the fuse cover on the driver's side, removed the 4 screws. http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/451/screwsi.jpg Then with a screwdriver pushed in the gap in the fascia, unclip it. There are 2 of these on the rhs of the steering column, and one on the left. http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2715/clipsa.jpg There is also a kind of plastic 'pop rivet' on the rhs next to the door pillar. Pop it out with a screwdriver, and withdraw fully with some pliers. http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/9682/rivet.jpg The fascia panel is then removed by unclipping the lower left side by pulling towards the door, and then lowering the panel, unclipping the wiring to the light attached to the panel. To swing the fuse panel up/out, after pulling the white clips on the side forwards, I found it easiest to then lever the round pins (that the white clips were clipped over) up/out with a screwdriver. Once the panel started swinging forward, I noted that a few of the tie-wraps needed clipping to allow proper access to the panel. The clips to release the 'level 2' relay panel are tucked away at the top of the panel and need to be pushed out (simultaneously) to allow the panel to unhook. Again, there was a tie-wrap holding up progress. Finally, I clapped eyes on relay 30: http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/3221/relay.jpg

My '98 2.3 Ghia had a one stall (restarted no problem a few minutes later) and a few 'stutters' and then finally last Saturday it just stalled and wouldn't start again. I tried again the next day, but no dice. I found this article, and used it to dig my way into the fascia to relay 30. (My fascia is different to the one shown, so when I get finished I'll add some pics to show the differences. Anyway, took out the relay and then thought I'd just refit and try starting. An the car started first time. Then I took the relay out again, took the cover off to check for dry joints etc. but it looked ok. Refitted it and now it won't start again. It'll turn over, but doesn't start. Just bleeps when I stop cranking. I've also noted the driver's door led flashing rapidly. I'll probably try get a replacement relay tomorrow, but considering how much trouble it is to get to, I'm already worried about the next long journey! BTW - I found there was no way to get to 'level 3' without cutting two tie-wraps on the main loom, and one that seemed to have been fitted to stop level 2 being removed. (Level 2, once loosened, can be moved to the side - there isn't really a 'neat' way to keep it out of the way.

That's what I found on mine end of last year. The coolant temp gauge is virtually permanently off to the left, and only occasionally will it rise. But it never sits at 'normal'. So I added a stat in the housing - presuming that the coolant was simply flowing all the time - but it doesn't seem to have changed anything, so maybe I should try the temp sensor. In the pipework just behind the rad there is a metallic t-piece that looks like it *might* be a stat housing (I think I've read something somewhere that suggests it is) but as it was akward to get to I haven't taken it off yet. (I once took a coolant hose off while on holiday - i.e. only very basic toolkit - and then found the pipe clamp almost impossible to put back on! So now I think twice before dismantling coolant hoses. lol.) Mine's a '98 Ford Galaxy Ghia 2.3L petrol, btw.

I came here looking for inspiration, as I was about to do the nsf shock this morning when I saw the rusted mess and wondered how to get it undone. I've given up on it for today, but I wish I'd thought of trying a sparkplug socket. I found that for the allen key, on mine it is the same size as the one that I use to get the brake caliper off (7mm, I think) which is also a) quite long and :16: got a good solid handle. The nut seems to be 21mm (based on the fact that a 19mm ring spanner didn't work and the 22mm socket was a loose fit.) I couldn't find my 22mm deep/offset ring spanner, but having looked in Halfords, they all looked rather bigger than the clearance in the cup. They also had a nice set of "through ratchet" sockets, but at

I was just about to start searching for a fault like this one. After braking, when the pedal is released there is quite a bit of hissing. Even more under load - when the vacuum, increases. Eventually it stops, but it certainly is something that started happening in the last few weeks. Before I run off to the dealer's and start stripping down the car - can anyone tell me if this is a good first resort? Thanks.

Yeah - I felt it. Woke me up, and the whole house was rattling, light fitting was swinging and shelves rattling - it was pretty scary. It was the first time I'd ever felt an earthquake, and it sure was big enough!

Which particular OBD2 reader do you have? Mind you, I really want to find something that'll handle both cars, although the focus right now is on the Galaxy.

I am looking to get something so I can check fault codes, clear service indicators and generally use the diagnostic interfaces in my cars - both '98 petrol Ghia models - a 2.3 Galaxy and a 2.0 Mondeo (see sig.) I'd love something like Vag Com - but what is available/suitable? I had a quick look at http://www.talktomycar.co.uk/ but there doesn't seem much info on what is applicable to what car. Your experiences and recommendations would be much appreciated.

OK, so you tried the MAF sensor to no avail - what about the O2 sensor? I'm not sure, but isn't that the sensor that's in the exhaust front pipe? Have a look and see if the wiring to it is damaged. I think with a suitable multimeter that you can check whether it's responding (at all) - however you'll have to get some further info on that - maybe someone around here knows.

Mine is nearly at 140k - presumably still on the original chain :lol:

Mine had stopped working too, but today I replaced the vacuum hose from the pump under the n/s wing, and now the C/C system is working again :D That said, the 'resume' function doesn't seem to work, but I think that may be the stalk switch. I'm just quite pleased the main system is working again. To think, if I'd known about that pipe before, I wouldn't have had to do without for the past couple of years!!!

OK, today I got the new tube and fitted it. Result? The car is again running normally. Anyway, I started by trying to remove the exhaust manifold. I got all but one of the nuts/studs removed - the one behind the alternator is a real b*st*rd - I think I'd have to remove the alternator to get at it! So I tried having a go without going further. The tube that runs from the inlet manifold is held by a single bolt on the r/h side of the block. Once I'd removed that, I could disconnect at the inlet manifold, and then I pulled the other end (at the PCV valve) free. First of all I found that I could move the tube so I could reach it from below (see pictures) which allowed me to refit the new tube and the PCV valve before refitting into the block. Note - the PCV valve will pull from the block quite easily, so forget about removing the exhaust manifold! (In fact, I managed to snap 2 of the studs putting it all back, so now I've got an even bigger job to do! - but for now it'll do.) Anyway, enough said, it was a pretty straightforward job, in the end - I just wish someone could have told me to leave the exhaust manifold alone! The pics attached show the tube/PCV valve location behind the dipstick tube, and the view of the new rubber tube with the PCV valve attached, sitting just behind the front downpipe - in this position I could just about get to it.

Nope, and we still haven't... -> http://www.snopes.com/photos/natural/iceberg.asp

I ordered the new tube today, and I'll be fitting it on Saturday - weather permitting. I'll probably start by removing the tube coming from the inlet manifold and then if/when I can actually see the PCV valve I'll decide whether the exhaust manifold needs to come off.

Further to the above, I went to the dealer today to check out the diagrams, and it seems this is probably the PCV (crankcase ventilation) 'oil separator', rathe than as the Haynes book describes it. It connects to the intake manifold through a rubber hose at each end - the end by the block (just behind the very hot exhaust manifold) is the one that's gone. I think it's probably a good idea to clean the PCV valve/oil separator too, while I'm there - I guess they can become gummed up. Has anyone else had trouble with this part of the system? I'm not looking forward to having to remove the exhaust manifold etc. - seems there's rather a lot of other things - e.g. dipstick, alternator - that are also attached - that'll be a right royal pain.

Is it possible to replace the rubber hose at the top of the emission control valve (on the front of the block, behind the exhaust manifold) with the manifold in place? Also, should the valve be replaced as well, or just the hose? The hose is very sloppy, so it seems it's collapsed/split/perished - the least I expect to do is replace it (presumably need to get this from the fraud dealer) but if I do have to remove the manifold to do that, I want to know whether it's worth considering replacing the valve as well. As it is, I can't even see how it's fixed in the block.

Any ideas peeps? I read all the different A/C threads and found various references to checking the condenser for leaks. So I thought I'd try find mine - looked around the front radiator and can't find anything that looks remotely like any of the pics I've found here. (e.g. here) Is this visible without dismantling the whole front of the car?

While I was under there, I thought I'd check out the A/C condenser - but I can't find it? Looking around the radiators etc. I've found nothing that looks anything like the pictures I've found here. Is there something different I should be looking for? The aircon hasn't worked for quite a while, as the quote of

OK, I decided to look for the source of the 'hissing' sound, and I'm pretty sure it's the 'crankcase emission control valve' - situated just behind the exhaust manifold on the front of the block. The pipe running from the top seems loose - not sure what to do, though. (Right now it's very hot - again) Anyone have any thoughts?

It is. Certainly MUCH cleaner than it was a week ago when it was still working...