?Bleeno?

It's an "oil burner" so you will get some oil back from the exhaust gases and recirculated into the system. You can clean the EGR valve before replacing it.

Hiya and welcome to the forum from me to! Advanced bluetooth ...... Yep pretty good. ..... answers your phone for you and allows you to speak handsfree via a mic fitted in the car. Also allows voice control which allows you to call people via the phone without having to touch anything. You can even control the CD system with just your voice ...... clever hey?

Have a look at this link guys ...very helpful people. http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/Forum/i....php?board=57.0

What it sounds like is something is tripping it into limp home mode. When you switch the ignition off and then back on you are temporarily clearing the latched fault. If you have a faulty sensor it will more than likely trigger it again. Time to get the fault codes read using VAG-COM if it happens again.

I concur with Insider on this one ...definately Ford and believe me what a beast! 400Nm of torque with the transient overboost!

Mary bought a VW Tank Her money she thought was well spent But everytime she opened the door She realised the seller was bent! Welcome from me Mary and look forward to your posts.

Good point ........ I new they were separate ccts .... so 5 out of 10?

Have a look at the FAQ's theres a great topic on exactly what you're looking for.

You might find that the switch runs off a separate wire for the "idiot" indicator. So you need a light to tell you you've left the door open?...... mmmmmm. :lol: Just noticed your other thread regarding broken wires ...... could be the cause of this thread.

From my understanding of your post ..... the aux/booster heater used to work because you use to hear the jet noise when you switched the ignition off? So because you no longer heard the noise you changed the glowplugs? The heater only has one glowplug and only operates if the water temperature is below 75 degrees centigrade and the ambient air temp is below 5 degrees (11.5 degrees on certain models). You say that the unit is still hot after a run ..... how hot? You shouldn't be able to touch the small exhaust. Sounds to me like it's working because if it wasn't getting hot enough you would get loads of white smoke. Perhaps someone else could advise.

Tom before you start thinking about the head gasket and with the icy weather we've been having have a look at all the cooling pipes very carefully, particularly the joints. Look for any signs of fluid leakage and check the tightness of the joints. The next thing to check is whether or not the water pump impellor is still attached (There are threads on here that include a check on how to find out). Although a blown head gasket would give you similar symptoms, a leaky pipe will do the same due to the system not pressurizing correctly and therefore the water starts to boil and produce steam. Thats one reason you shouldn't remove the water expansion tank cap on a hot engine.

Debbie sounds like you need to get hold of a Ford TIS disc with the wiring diagrams to give you a start to where these wires should go. Have a look at the following post which will give you an idea. Unfortunately I didn't have any problems with the central locking on mine so I have little experience with the central locking on a Galaxy. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ral+locking+ecu

Hi Keith ....... just found this under the FAQ and think you will find it very useful although this is for a Mk2 Tdi. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;#entry98280

Change the sensor Keith.

Not having suffered from this problem with mine I wouldn't know whether the compressor is the cause. Sounds like your wife smelt the start of burning wire insulation so be careful. You can turn off the compressor by selecting ECON on the climate control panel. The other thing that it might be is the run on pump as they tend to get noisy with age. If the noise stops when you select ECON then its a good chance the A/C Compressor wants sorting.

Have you or the Mrs been spraying blue de-icing fluid on the windows as that could find it's way past the weatherseal and into the bottom of the door.

Lol ...... I'd rather push a Galaxy than drive a Zafira ...... Seriously..... you talk to Zafira owners and ask them what they think of them and I think you'll change your mind.

Hiya matey I understand from the link I gave you that the same problem only occurred when the engine was cold ...this was a TMAP sensor (2nd MAF) problem IIRC. From what you have said yours is definately kicking into Limp mode where the ECU ignores most of the sensor info and uses stored settings. In doing this it protects the engine from over-revving and prevents the turbo from operating. You can reset the current fault by switching off the ignition and then back on but if the fault code re-appears then you're back in limp mode until the fault is rectified. Did you read this latest post? http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=15484 ....... This is what's happening to yours. The shring noise I don't think is related and to me sounds like the thrust bearing or the clutch release bearing. A way of checking this is to sit in the car with the engine running and listen carefully when you just dip the clutch without selecting a gear. If the noise disappears when you dip the clutch this is a good sign that the thrust bearing is dry and needs either lubricating or replacing. Yes a VW dealer will be able to diagnose the problem but the garage has already told you the turbo is overboosting. So the first thing I would do is to start checking vacuum pipes from/to Boost Control Solenoid (BCS), VNT diaphragm, check the air filter to the BCS (behind and below the MAF on the bulkhead) and check the VNT movement. There's always hope matey ...just stick with it and you'll surprise yourself. Good Luck.

Joner ...... you will need to give a little more information. Is this charging from the mains or from the car via the white socket? On most caravan rectifier units there is a red light and this light not only tells you there is mains power to it but if a fault develops the light stays off. The other indication is the meter on the switch unit indicates the charge of the caravan battery. It is usual to see this cycle (up and down) and shows the battery charging. Not all caravan batteries charge from the car and only provide DC power via the white socket to keep the fridge cold while driving and the odd light, but beware though it doesn't take long to drain the car battery without the engine running. You will need to select Car on the Car / Caravan rocker switch to get the DC from the cars battery. Well thats how it works on mine. Hope his helps.

Phillip ...... does the glow plug light come on at all when you select to position 2 on the ignition? It should come on briefly and then go out before you start the engine. If not, try checking the wiring to the glow plugs as this is a known problem. Could also be the temp sensor as suggested by Mick.

Dunno bout vast knowledge Scorch but here gos; Snow flake ...... possibly the frost warning .... usually comes onwhen the outside air temp drops below 4 degrees cog with an a in the middle ....... not to sure but I think that's the alternator workshop warning when there's a battery charging issue. ECON is when the air con is turned off and basically acts like a standard heating system without the air con compressor working. You'll tend to find in this mode that the windows won't demist as quick during the winter as the air con dryer removes any moisture. IIRC you have to have to select the fan speeds manually to zero to switch them off.

Hi cheeky ........... have a look at this post regarding turbo overboost and this will give you an idea of what to check out on yours. From my own personal experience the Boost control Solenoid was the problem due to my own stupidty. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...0310&hl=N75 The turbo on the PD engine is a VNT type where the turbo vanes move to prevent turbo lag. If they don't move enough then theres a good chance the turbo will overboost and cause the car to go into limp mode. Have a look at the post and this will give a few more ideas. Best of Luck

Glad to hear you've found the problem Paul and the information you've obtained will be very useful to the forum. I'm pretty certain you can get the whole exhaust cheaper than that from Kwik Fit and IIRC there's a company up North somewhere that is very reasonable as a freind of mine bought a full stainless steel system for his Beemer for the same price of a standard system. So if you shop around you'll find what you need I'm sure of that.

Whoops ...I think I'm guilty of most of those ..... one they missed though; Wasn't me!!!!

I know that feeling slt ...what are you changing it for then? Good luck with da new motor anyway.