?Bleeno?

It's an "oil burner" so you will get some oil back from the exhaust gases and recirculated into the system. You can clean the EGR valve before replacing it.

Hiya and welcome to the forum from me to! Advanced bluetooth ...... Yep pretty good. ..... answers your phone for you and allows you to speak handsfree via a mic fitted in the car. Also allows voice control which allows you to call people via the phone without having to touch anything. You can even control the CD system with just your voice ...... clever hey?

Have a look at this link guys ...very helpful people. http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/Forum/i....php?board=57.0

What it sounds like is something is tripping it into limp home mode. When you switch the ignition off and then back on you are temporarily clearing the latched fault. If you have a faulty sensor it will more than likely trigger it again. Time to get the fault codes read using VAG-COM if it happens again.

I concur with Insider on this one ...definately Ford and believe me what a beast! 400Nm of torque with the transient overboost!

Mary bought a VW Tank Her money she thought was well spent But everytime she opened the door She realised the seller was bent! Welcome from me Mary and look forward to your posts.

Good point ........ I new they were separate ccts .... so 5 out of 10?

Have a look at the FAQ's theres a great topic on exactly what you're looking for.

You might find that the switch runs off a separate wire for the "idiot" indicator. So you need a light to tell you you've left the door open?...... mmmmmm. :lol: Just noticed your other thread regarding broken wires ...... could be the cause of this thread.

From my understanding of your post ..... the aux/booster heater used to work because you use to hear the jet noise when you switched the ignition off? So because you no longer heard the noise you changed the glowplugs? The heater only has one glowplug and only operates if the water temperature is below 75 degrees centigrade and the ambient air temp is below 5 degrees (11.5 degrees on certain models). You say that the unit is still hot after a run ..... how hot? You shouldn't be able to touch the small exhaust. Sounds to me like it's working because if it wasn't getting hot enough you would get loads of white smoke. Perhaps someone else could advise.

Tom before you start thinking about the head gasket and with the icy weather we've been having have a look at all the cooling pipes very carefully, particularly the joints. Look for any signs of fluid leakage and check the tightness of the joints. The next thing to check is whether or not the water pump impellor is still attached (There are threads on here that include a check on how to find out). Although a blown head gasket would give you similar symptoms, a leaky pipe will do the same due to the system not pressurizing correctly and therefore the water starts to boil and produce steam. Thats one reason you shouldn't remove the water expansion tank cap on a hot engine.

Debbie sounds like you need to get hold of a Ford TIS disc with the wiring diagrams to give you a start to where these wires should go. Have a look at the following post which will give you an idea. Unfortunately I didn't have any problems with the central locking on mine so I have little experience with the central locking on a Galaxy. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...ral+locking+ecu

Hi Keith ....... just found this under the FAQ and think you will find it very useful although this is for a Mk2 Tdi. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;#entry98280

Change the sensor Keith.

Not having suffered from this problem with mine I wouldn't know whether the compressor is the cause. Sounds like your wife smelt the start of burning wire insulation so be careful. You can turn off the compressor by selecting ECON on the climate control panel. The other thing that it might be is the run on pump as they tend to get noisy with age. If the noise stops when you select ECON then its a good chance the A/C Compressor wants sorting.