jonbob

Its possible some muck may have been disturbed in the fuel tank and partially blocked the fuel filter, which is fine on idle but when the engine is under load and needs more fuel it may become starved. Its also possible that the brake light switch above the pedal is playing up, as not only does it turn the brake lights on, but also controls the ecu as to fuel usage on overrun etc. If you have VCDS is will throw up a fault code possibly 16955 Jon

No , the only problem I had apart from the split CV boot was some coolant leakage, there are a couple of coolant pipes which run just under the gearbox to the aux heater, as the engine has to be inclined down to change the clutch/flywheel I assume that these were disturbed at the join there. Have topped up the coolant and no probs since. Is it possible that the exhaust manifold/down pipe has been disturbed and perhaps there is a leak there Jon

Should do, you will need the mounts though, and about two hours to strip out the trim in the boot and rivet in the mounting brackets. VW I have found are the cheapest for the brackets. Jon

Yep, not had problems since apart from a split CV boot which was not noticed when they put it all back together, but at least it was changed FOC by the garage, and much to the dismay of the mechanic I pulled my 1.5 tonne caravan on the new clutch that weekend. Jon

That, along with a slipping clutch were the symptoms in mine, cost a grand to do at a VW specialist. Although not sure when VW started putting DMFs in their TDi engines Jon

I'd check the cable in the trunking on the passenger door first, had exactly the same problem, and found 4 wires had been severed, one of which was the main feed wire to the window motor and the light feed to the window switch which kept earthing and blowing the fuse on the instrument lights. Took me three hours yesterday to splice in new cable Jon

Thanks folks Fired up VCDS, worked first time :(

Have found one on flea bay for a tenner, but its a mkI does anyone know if it will fit a mkII

Well at least I have found out why the rear n/s window was not working. Have found 4 cut wires in the door gaiter. I'm fine about soldering/splicing in new cable but it would make the job easier/more effective if I can remove the whole loom from the door. Has anyone done this and how easy is it. Or would it be better to source a new loom off tinternet thanks Jon

Ta muchly

Hi I have a late mkII (04/54 plate) TDi 130, will VAGCOM/VCDS lite work (with cheap Ebay lead) or will I need something more akin to CANBUS. Thanks Jon

Hi Guys Does anyone know if the VAGCOM leads off E bay and dowloaded VCDS lite will work on my late 2004 Galaxy, Have a feeling it may be CAN BUS, but I need to scan for possible fault with aux heater, Cheers Jon

Hi and welcome to the forum, there are two types of plug fitted to the D5WZ heater the Beru GH001, 0100.228.340 this primarily fits the earlier MK2, it's cheapest from AVS car parts online. The later ceramic plug which is probably the one you need with the wires attached this is more expensive and are available on ebay from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Diesel-Heaters-Spares?_rdc=1 http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Heater-Parts-Direct?_rdc=1 I don't have the part number for these but if you email either of these they will advise. Of course they are available from dealers for more dosh. Thanks, have phoned local Dealer and it would appear I have the later version of the heater according to them. I will order a VAG COM lead off ebay and see if just clearing any fault codes will work, I have to all too common problem of the car not heating up/varying coolant temp, and SWMBO is giving me grief that the car isn't warming up on her way to work.

Guys Whilst we are on the subject of glow plugs, i am having trouble sourcing one for the auxilliary heater. I have a 2004/54 plate TDi130 ghia. Ta. Jon