huwb

Well it did deteriorate over time so last month I tried http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1021-red-line-superlight-shockproof-gear-oil-70w-75.aspx as it's supposed to behave like an ATF in some respects - synchros like low viscosity. The reality is that super lightweight has quite a high viscosity and things got worse. In desperation I popped some cheap ATF in there and things are much better. I'm not holding my breath as with each oil change there is a little yellow metal coming out so the synchros are probably wearing quickly. I am a slightly concerned that ATF is out of spec but a lot of manual gearboxes use ATF and auto box bearings seem to manage fine with it.

Hi Jamie, I hope you have fixed this but there may be some useful information here if not: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php/topic/25203-starting-problems-and-buying-the-correct-fault-reader/?p=180133 http://forums.t5d5.org/topic/22133-diesel-cold-starting-problems/

I fitted one of these 20 miles ago: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-valve-blanking-plate-Ford-2-0-TDCi-Peugeot-2-0HDi-Citroen-2-0-HDi-Volvo-2-0-/110907922480 Started fine and drives fine. I can't honestly say I noticed much difference in performance. Initially I thought it was slightly less responsive to throttle pedal inputs but after further evaluation it is probably no different. It may be a bit punchier in the peak torque range but again this may be placebo. I am always amazed by how these little PSA units pull when they're running properly. It idles smoothly at 800 rpm as before. No limp mode and no engine management light - the Volvo light comes on intermediately if I idle for a short while. My motivations are: The inlet manifold is already gunging up at 60k and the manifold sensors/flapper were thick with soot/oil paste recently. Engine oil is black within a few miles even with a fill/drain/fill procedure. Performance was significantly improved on my 2005 Volvo D5. The DPF should see less soot and after my issues a while ago this is desirable. Happy days.

I have an EGR/DPF delete thread on the go but I thought this deserved a query of it's own as the information applies to anybody getting their vehicle remapped whether deleting stuff or not. My question: Is it worth taking the car to a main dealer for plugging in to the "Ford computer" to have any software updates prior to remapping as the tuning company I'm considering will copy whatever software is there and amend rather than flashing a generic file? It seems the right thing to do to get it all up to date before taking the plunge. A local dealership said they would need it all day and they charge a fee of £130 no matter how many hours it spends updating - they also said there would likely be quite a few changes in the 3 years it hasn't been to a Ford garage but impossible to be sure without actually plugging it in (they can't go off my VIN number for instance). I'm guessing I wouldn't need to go there and specify symptoms or request particular updates and that just hooking it up to their system will automatically identify what needs doing. I have no problem paying the £130 just wondered if my peers thought it likely anything has actually changed. I did read somewhere that there is an update for electrohydraulic power steering and that might be handy as ours was iffy over the last winter. Ta, Huw.

That's how I see it too.

Just to confirm it wasn't placebo and changing into 1st/2nd has improved over the last 700 miles. Worthwhile.

Thanks Gary, I haven't got around to it yet but it's on my list. My nuclear option would be removal of DPF, EGR blank and then remapping to suit. This scares me a little as who knows what MOT emissions checks may be afoot. There will be no external evidence so it's tempting.

Well it seems to have worked as before the thrashing it would limp and give malfunction messages every day and it hasn't happened since.

What engine size is this? There is no in tank pump on my 2.0 TDCi. When I replaced our fuel filter recently (my first ever diesel filter change) I attached some rubber tube to the screw-in valve at the top of the filter assembly and used a mityvac suction tool to draw fuel up. Provided fuel is drawn through the filter you should be OK.

While I'm sat at my PC I thought I'd add that EGR delete software is available so that the EML does not appear when the EGR is blanked. The software changed just tell the ECU not to check EGR operation hence no light. My blanking plate arrived today and EGR delete is available as a no-cost option with a remap from Shark performance (Peugeot 2.0HDi engine is also used in the Focus): http://www.sharkperformance.co.uk/brands/Ford/Focus/2.0TDCi%20136hp/ I'm just not sure I want the extra oomph of a remap as our clutch is probably already on borrowed time due my terrible towing exploits. To be fair there is adequate performance in it as standard but I do like the idea of not filling the intake with filth and we intend keeping the car for quite a while. Hmm...

Our 2007 2.0 TDCi has probably never gone into first or second gear very well - especially on a down-change to first when rolling towards a junction. I thought it was just a quirk of the gearbox but as we tow a caravan with it I decided to change the transmission fluid. The hardest part was working out which gearbox we have and what fluid that needs. ETIS told me it's a 6MMT box and several webpages on various forums plus a handy chemicals guide from Volvo helped me decide I needed a WSS-M2C200-D2 fluid. It takes just under 2 litres of fluid and I replaced it this afternoon. The oil coming out was dark brown and had a disconcerting but not terrible smattering of yellow metal particles in it - though I have seen worse in my failed Volvo M56 box which ran (wildly) out of spec fluid for a while. Fluid going in was yellow. First impressions are probably flawed by overly optimistic placebo effect but on a little test drive it will pop into first and second on rolling down-changes without needing a hefty shove of the gear lever. It's not like a knife though butter but it seems easier - this week will tell as it's my wifes car and she will be a better barometer of my efforts. ETIS website (handy for service schedules etc): http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleSelection.do Volvo chemicals catalogue (see page 40): https://www.dropbox.com/s/stqv38b3aw4e10k/Volvo%20chemicals%20and%20lubricants.pdf Also attached if I've done it properly: Volvo chemicals and lubricants.pdf Link to Opieoils for correct spec fluid: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69412-castrol-syntrans-fe-75w-full-synthetic-gear-oil-gl4.aspx. I could have bought transmission fluid from Ford but as the man at the dealer was a bit unsure when I asked him what I needed I decided to leave well alone.

Ours does it to. They also come back on with a tap on the cluster.

I hope you fixed it. Apologies for a thread resurrection but ours wouldn't start when cold for for months so I changed fuel filter, battery and switched to 0W30 oil. Neither the fuel filter or battery helped but oddly enough the oil did. This led me to consider there wasn't sufficient cranking speed to start (fuel pressure will be low if cranking is slow-ish though I hadn't noticed it was slow). There is no in tank pump as the garage I took it to suggested - they even managed to order a pump from Ford! The garage also changed a relay somewhere to no avail. The glow plugs are buried at the back of our Peugeot engined 2.0 TDCi so god knows how I would check those. A friend said to try some voltage drop tests to check the positive feed to the starter motor and negative earth connections. All were fine except for excessive voltage drop across the starter motor flange and starter body itself. This foxed me but I took a punt on it meaning there was excessive internal resistance in the starter. I fitted an aftermarket starter and hey presto all fine again. Voltage drop tests: http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm Where I bought my starter: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Victoria-autoparts

I've driven the car ~100 miles at 75mph in 4th gear (just over 3000 rpm) for the last 2 days in an effort to clean anything out of the system that wasn't helping. So far no recurrence and although I strongly suspect placebo effect it feels more eager generally. This might turn into a thread where I talk to myself but I will probably post again to confirm whether it really has made a difference.

Not yet. Is there a workshop manual available for these vehicles? I will take a look under there anyway as it doesn't hurt to get an idea of what sits where. Thanks, Huw.

My 3rd and hopefully final new topic today unless something else gives up on the way home! As title and it's been doing it intermittently for a few weeks - no association with a particular gear, driving style, temperature or speed. The yellow ESP symbol appears on the dash and Engine Malfunction shows on the display. If I click through messages it says ESP malfunction. No codes but that's a work in progress. Restarting sorts things out and it runs fine otherwise. I have looked at the ABS sensor wiring at the front wheels but can't get sight of the ABS rings themselves - the wiring looks intact but pathetically wrapped and taped. My wife had an aftermarket amp/sub installed a while ago so I tracked the new wiring from the boot to the headunit looking for a disturbed ESP module but to be honest I don't know what I'm looking for or where it is! The only change in use of late are that it has been doing a lot of short journeys with no DPF friendly motorway trips for several weeks. I don't really see how that could influence ESP but I came across a thread somewhere linking out-of-spec ECM computations to the ESP as ESP relies on the ECM to control power. Probably pissing in the wind but I'll give a sound thrashing on the weekend. Any suggestions? Thanks, Huw.

I cleaned the "throttle" last night on our 2007 60k 2.0 TDCi - it was not as bad as I had expected but there was a coating of sludge built up on the blade and body. I have just cleaned the EGR mixer on a 130k Volvo D5 and the 10mm deep coating of soot/carbon/sludge has propmted me to check the Galaxy mixer. Sadly the "mixer" on mine is integral to the inlet manifold so cleaning requires removal. I managed to get a gloved finger up inside and scrape out quite a bit of goo that was about 2-5mm thick depending on where I rummaged. In frustration I have just bought this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110907922480&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 - safe in the knowledge that it will annoy me by setting the EML! However, I would like to give the engine a fighting chance by cleaning the inlet manifold or maybe for ease just bolt on a replacement (~£200 on Ebay) and clean mine later to sell. Has anybody done this and do I need to replace umpteen gaskets or remove injectors etc? It looks fairly simple but the jobs I screw up always do. Thanks, Huw.

As title really. I have been using a Volvo DiCE Vida clone for a few years and that's a gem compared to generic code readers as it gives access to all modules. My Torque android app is not revealling any codes in our 2007 2.0 TDCi Galaxy even though it goes into limp mode quite frequently then cites and ESP Malfunction/Engine Malfunction as the cause. I have just bought a D900 OBD2/EOBD/Canbus which may be a little more helpful: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CBQCI7E/ref=pe_385721_37038051_pe_217191_31005151_3p_M3T1_dp_1 but this looks nice: http://www.cardiag.co.uk/new-ford-rotunda-dealer-ids-vcm-v73.html I've read mixed reviews of these but the reviews are usually a few years old so the clones may have improved? Cheers, Huw.

Quick update. The cleaning and flushing appeared to work for a few months but over the winter the issue came back. It now "pops" quite a lot when moving from a stationary position ie: not heavy once moving but seems to stick if it's not moving. The fluid and filter are clean. The problem is much less noticeable now that the ambient temperature is higher but I am expecting it to come back with a vengeance over the coming winter. I have yet to check out the wiring to the pump but that's on my list of things to do. There are no codes stored according to my Torque app but as it only reads the ECM perhaps that was optimistic. My hope is that a sensor is failing rather than the pump or rack but time will tell. I'm nervous of taking it to a dealer who just replaces expensive parts at random without due attention to any diagnostic process.

Hi all, I'm not sure if I've posted here before. I've been a member for a while but have luckily never had any major issues. Ours is a 2007 2.0 TDCi 6 speed manual with 50000 miles on the clock - we bought it new. The power steering has been heavy when parking for about 2 weeks - to the point of losing assistance altogether at times (sticking). I assumed the electrohydraulic pump or rack had failed but on the advice of a friend I bought some fluid for a flush. My first surprise was that the fluid in the reservoir is orangey red (ATF?) but the fluid Ford list in the manual is green - as far as I'm aware the system has never been tinkered with so must have been that fluid from new. I bought the green stuff and emptied the reservoir with a turkey baster. The filter is fixed in the reservoir so I took the inlet/outlet pipes off and has look at the filter - it was black and caked with gunge though the fluid was clear. It took half an hour with a toothbrush and bleach to clean it and I back flushed for good measure. I let it dry for an hour on a radiator and refitted then filled the reservoir with green fluid. Immediately the steering is light when parking and no sticking - I assume the pump was sucking away under load when parking but to no avail though that blocked filter. I am going to drain the reservoir again tonight (and every night this week) to serially flush the fluid as I can't be doing with the mess of flushing it properly. Hope this helps and fingers crossed I don't come back with further steering issues. Huw.

Hi Nick, it just clears after a few minutes but it will not clear by simply switching off the engine and re-starting. I called the local ford dealer who said it was a common fault on S-Max but not on Galaxy. I'll take it in soon. Thanks, Huw.

Hi all, this is my first post. We bought a new MK3 Galaxy April 07. Brilliant up to now, it's done 6000 miles. Last two days there is a clunk you can feel through the steering wheel and hear. It has got worse quite quickly. At first I thought it was when turning the steering wheel but now I realise it happens when power is applied or I take my foot off the throttle. My guess is some sort of loose suspension link that shifts back and fore as I accelerate/decelerate. It is also pulling left, even against a camber - this may have been going on for a while but I've tried to blot it out of my head. The electronic handbrake has also locked itself on randomly 3 times over the last 6 months - thankfully it fixes itself after a while. I'm nervous about approaching CEM Days - my local dealership in swansea. Any ideas on the faults above and/or dealers nearish to Swansea. Ta, Huw.