Barlidge

Yeah thought it might be a long shot on this old post but thought it might be worth a go as my symptoms are almost exactly the same as the OP's except its on left hand turn and also on a straight when the suspension is compressed. Mine started about 18 - 24 months ago, trouble is a few weeks beforehand I'd done a whole heap of jobs all within a short period of time: Gearbox opened and repaired Clutch kit and flywheel Driveshafts inc intermediate and stub Wheel bearings A year or so previous and I did all the wishbone bushes and a year or so previous to that the strut top mounts and bearings were done. Since the noise started the ARB bushes have been done and also the bottom ball joints, I've been through a complete set of tyres with the noise and when they were last put on the rims were inspected for deformities/buckles. Its also been through 2 MOTs where I've asked the guys to pay particular attention to the front end but they also have been unable to find anything amiss. To sum up when cornering to the left with enough force to compress the offside suspension or traveling along in a straight line with the suspension compressed there is a kind of grinding/graunching noise. It sounds to be a rotational noise consistent with the drive train speed. I am unable to recreate it by turning in a circle in a carpark forwards or backwards or by putting the car on stands and running through the gears. The shafts don't seem to have any play in them or tightness when the wheels are rotated by hand. When it first started I checked everything for safety and then waited for it to develop and make diagnosis easier, while it may have got a little noisier over the time it hasn't developed significantly but is more of an embarrassment when carrying passengers. I have just recently changed the complete offside knuckle/hub assembly for a 2nd hand unit as I'd kind of put my money on it being a bad bearing but this has had no effect. The original shafts were only changed due to deteriorating rubbers and as a matter of course when doing the clutch/gearbox and intermediate shaft/stub. I still have the old ones so my next option is to see if its bad replacement shaft but as the noise is not typical of a failed CV joint I'm not holding out much hope but on the other hand there are not that many rotational parts in there and it has to be one of them. Hey ho, love the old gal lol!

Bit of a long shot but did you ever find the solution to this?

Had to do the same on one of mine, def M12.

I tried the cotton thing but couldn't get it to work for me, in the end I propped the brushes apart then put a single drop of water on each brush, popped it in the freezer for half hour then remove the prop and quickly put back together.

Got to agree with Seatkid, black alloys can look good sometimes, but it takes just the right combination to pull it off. Personally I think the bright new alloy suits the Gal better.

Last week I fitted a set of J&R Drive shafts, straight away noticed a similar sensation but thought I could live with it. However I also tried towing my caravan yesterday and it turns into a sensation like driving along rumble strips which is quite nauseating after a while. Today I put the older outer shafts back on and the buckled wheel sensation has gone away. I also ran it up while on axle stands without the outer shafts on and while the intermediate shaft spins true the face has about 7mm run out. Not tried the van again yet, will get some better shafts first. I've been doing a load of stuff on mine and while the J&R shafts were on I also had new front tyres fitted and also removed and checked the roll restrictor.

+1 for the Weird Clutch Syndrome. I have just changed my clutch (flywheel/clutch and slave and despite bleeding with both a vacuum bleeder and by the traditional method virtually straight away I had all the above symptoms. I repeated the bleeding a couple of times without any change. As it happened within a few days I had to remove the box again anyway due to a problem with the offside stubb axle (I will add this to Mirez's thread) prior to refitting the box I removed the slave from the box and filled a small cup with brake fluid and dipped the end of the slave in and pumped it repeatedly until all the air was out thus 'pre charging' the slave with fluid, then rotated it and tapped it with the connector uppermost and repeated this about three times. All refitted and bled only a quarter of a cup through to clear the air in the 10" pipe between the flexible pipe and the T piece and so far the pedal is solid and consistent, early days yet but though i'd share.

Not really sure if this helps but that item shows up as 12 on this image.

Just wondering if anyone has used J&R CV Joints from Birmingham for Galaxy driveshafts? They seem almost too reasonably priced which makes you question the quality, google throws up mainly good but a few dodgy reviews so just wondered if anyone here had used them. http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/2x-ford-galaxy-1-9tdi-driveshaft-brand-new-2000-06/ http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ford-galaxy-1-9-tdi-inner-drive-shaft-intermediate-driveshaft-off-side/

Front grill?

Looking for a front grill (top grill with the badge on) for a Mk2 Galaxy if anyone has one.

Small recessed button? Don't think I have one of them, my unit changes from °C to °F by pressing the large Auto and Econ buttons. Also I stripped the unit and cleaned all the boards, fan and plastic buttons thoroughly as my first thought was a gunged up button. The symptoms did suggest that though so maybe a faulty switch on the front board.

As an update to this I replaced the climate panel which cured that fault but since then the radio display disappears, the radio still works and by changing station/volume the display comes back for a bit.

Cheers for replies, only just noticed them, not getting email notifications. Edit: just updated settings

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