rayc

Hhhm Yes! Didn't scroll down the page enough! :blink: Wine! We have over 1200 lines in store with about 5 - 600 out for Tasting (which is free!) Been doing the job for 10 years and I dont even drink! Now based in dover Docks so if your ever passing through give me a shout as we do wine tasting in the port as well! :16:

Hi guys and Gals. I am based in Deal, Kent and have just purchased a 2001 Galaxy 1.9 TDI Ghia 115. It has a few issues such as Climate has a leak, Auxillary heater doesn't kick in (electric pump works though!). Done 159,000 miles 1 owner and full history. Once I've sorted the misfire I'll do the other bts! This will replace my 406 HDI as I have 2 German Shepherd dogs and do marketing for 2 wine shops in Calais. So the extra room will be handy for brochures etc. Just hoping the car will serve me well and maybe I'll upgrade to a newer one. I also own, Range Rover 4.6 Autobiography (Fantastic car) an E34 BMW 530i and a 2002 Chevrolet Day Van. Looking forward to being able to exchange experiences and fixes with a few of you!

I have been told to check the VSS on my TDI (PD). Being the now happy owner of a workshop CD I decided to try and locate it. To say the picture I have is difficult to understand is an understatement! It looks as though it's on the engine somewhere near the crank sensor (which I changed!) Can anyone point me in the right direction please Cheers Ray

If the fluids dark and smells burnt it's normally the clutches that have given out. I dont think changing the oil etc will make a difference. I dont know if these boxes have slip bands. If they do maybe they can be adjusted. I would also shop around for box rebuild prices. I know with American vehicles (I have an American van and am in an American car club also) that boxes have ranged from

Changed filter today and had a good look underneath and re routed pipes etc. Noticed the vanes were extremely sticky on the turbo so I have freed them off by moving the arm up and down. Freed up nicely. Noticed electric pump wasn't running so freed that up as well. Took for a run and the car is still the same. Definatley got to be fuelling or throttle peddle not sending proper fuelling signal. Back to getting filthy again I suppose! :(

I think it's down to personal preferences. I have used Wynns injector cleaner without side effects in the past and it has worked to clean what were most probably gummed up injectors. I have used total fuel cleaners and the like which have done what I have asked of them (Cleaned injectors etc). I don't use them regularly though (Ie every other tank). When BP ultimate first came out. I had a 525 tds BMW and that was totally transformed in the way it went. Not better economy but far better acceleration. However, I think the ploy was to get people using it and then cut back on the additives. As with most things. If you dont overdo it it shouldn't harm. Redex has been around for years. Although with the climate etc issues it's probaly not even the same as it was. Diesel Redex does have a Cetane boost in it and I have noticed a quieter engine after a few miles in my Peugeot 406 Diesel. Is it psycological? Dont think so. It's an old debate that will probably gone on when we're all pushing up daisies (Oh yeh. Wont be any fossil fuel by then!) If cars do regular long runs they'll probably not benefit. If you do short runs where the soot isn't burnt out it may well help keep it clean! There's my two penneth :(

Sorry, Also forgot to ask. Do the fuel tanks pressurise? Mine doesn't "hiss" when removing the fuel cap. Thanks

Well,Changed the crank sensor today. Made no difference (so I now have a spare!) I tried the revving it hard bit. Engine only revs to 4000 rpm and at this "limit" you can definately here the entrying to pick up and go further. My question. On a PD engine can someone explain how the fuelling etc works please. No matter how much the car is booted (and during misfire) there is no black smoke from the exhaust whatsoever. I am now beginning to think that fuelling must be too weak. I know the MAF is ok as that showed ok on the test bed. Is it purely the TPS that enrichens the fuel through the injectors (ie supplies more)? or is there any other sensors etc that the fueeling side looks to whilst boosting via the turbo? I really cant see any other issues (resistances etc checked on injection loom) that it can be apart from lack of fuel. I will get another filter tomorrow (Just in case) but I was told it was new to try and alleviate the misfire issue. Sorry to bring up what must be an old subject but I'm thinking it may be a new slant on the problem Thanks Ray

Hi Nik. No it didn't. Poss because I didn't rev it hard at standstill only took it for a drive with everything being scanned and I only drove to the point of misfire. The Bosch guy revved it to what must have been the rev limiter where he noticed the signal fluctuation. Hence why he said it could be the dual mass flywheel. I found the engine spped sensor and have just cleaned it off. Bit of engine oil over the electrode. So will take for a run later and see what happens.

Went to Injection specialist today (Bosch) They have diagnosed a spurious signal coming from the engine speed sensor. Everything else fine. He says it "could" be the dual mass flywheel moving and throwing the signal out. Next stage will be take sensor out when I can find it!

Briliant! Many thanks for that information Ray

Thanks but I dont think I have as I haven't seen one on Ebay and the question is to see if anyone knows of anyone outside of the dealers who supply them B)

Whilst searching for a car on Ebay I noticed a Sharan with a rear rubber mat that covered from behind the front seats to the boot and it was a one piece item with cut outs for the seats. Does anyone know if these are main dealer only? or where they can be obtained. Cheers Ray

Well, the guy came round and put his reader in the car. Showed a direct to earth fault on the maf (which we cleared assuming it was the old one) and a turbo pressure fault (again cleared due to split pipe which was repaired). Took car for a run with scanner plugged in. Misfires not registering on his unit and all readings for turbo maf etc were within range. Disconnected MAF and drove. Car was gutless but had not misfire until we got on the open road where it was barely noticeable. Switched off. Reconnected MAF and car drove well again apart from the misfire. I have been advised to take it to a bosch injection specialist due to no faults showing up. (Not even an injector issue, if they register?) Scratch head again and look deeper. One interesting thing he said to me was that I should have invested in a VW MAF as they are properly calibrated whereas Bosch are generic. He also told me that he has had a high percentage of Bosch failures on MAF sensors but only around a 10% failure with dealer supplied (but it did show within range on scanner) B)

Well, after a run up the M20 and M25 I can now say it definately only misfires unload load situations. It starts fine, Ticks over fine. Accelerate and it starts jumping / missing at approx 1800 rpm upwards. When I purchased the car and drove it with the turbo not working I noticed it had a slight misfire then. Now I have reconnected the pipework it is much more pronounced. I have a guy coming round with a tester to plug in and hopefully diagnose. I'm leaning towards either the crank sensor (I've since read the bottom pulley can come loose) or the throttle potentiomter as it has a direct relationship with the throttle reaching half way and also it appears to be possibly under fuelling when it requires fuel for the turbo. I have tried searching all over for pictures / write ups on how the PD engine works it's fuelling and timing advances. So ordered a TIS CD from Ebay. This site has been fantastic in finding idea's for a solution. Once the guy arrives I'll see what he comes up with. Fingers crossed it's a simple fix! B)

Thanks for that. I have read that but unfortunately the reference pictures were no longer viewable. Apart from his problems being slightly different (ie missing at idle) I will try and suss the multi plug on the front of the engine. I forgot to mention. When driving the engine "runs out of steam" at 3750 rpm in any gear. Could the crank sensor cause a misfire and not log a code? Cheers Ray

Hi everyone, What a fantastic source of information you guys offer. My names Ray, I reside in Deal, Kent and have just purchased a 2001 115 PD Galaxy with 158000 miles one owner and full history. When I purchased the car (EBay) the seller told me that it had a misfire then the turbo packed up. I decided to purchase it anyway as it was nice and cheap. Fixed the turbo issue. Someone hadn't routed the turbo pipe properly and it was cut through by the drive shaft. So, Turbo boost once again. I still have the misfire from about 1800 rpm and when under load only. I have taken the lid off the engine and checked all the connectors to the injectors. All nice and tight and tweaked up. Changed MAF for a genuine Bosch from Euro Car Parts (

Hi Kev Thanks for that info. I didn't know the rear A/c wasn't on all cars so will definately check for that one. With regard to VW & Seat. What spec models give similar to Ghia in the Ford. Also I assume Ghia X isn't available in the Mk2 (But I have seen some advertised as such) Cheers Ray

Hi everyone, I'm based in Deal near Dover and am thinking of purchasing my first Galaxy. I dont have fortunes to spend but definately want a diesel due to running costs etc. Will be looking for Ghia spec as it has climate etc. My reason for late purchase. Got 5 kids all growing up (I have an American day van as family wheels). I currently run a 406 saloon diesel. The galaxy would be mainly used for work (I work in Calais and have to take crisps etc over so van usage a plus). I have recently aquired two german shepherd pups which struggle to get in the Peugeot now so 3 seats removed and I have a good 4 seater with room for the dogs and luggage. On reading through various posts over the last couple of weeks I appreciate these cars (as all others) do have problems and that Ford dealers in the main are useless (I vowed never to own a Ford again after the absolute shoddy and unproffesional service of a Ford main dealer in Canterbury). So a good independent seems the way forward. Can anyone give me realistic mpg figures (must be the 110 or 115 I reckon). Reliability, noise levels, quality of equipment etc. please. I look forward to any comments Many thanks Ray