SilverBeast

Does this help?

On the MKII it's here The MKII Ghia has a temperature readout in the cluster as part of the trip computer (orange half FIS dislay) which uses the same sensor.

I have a 2005 TDI 130. Mine does the same on startup. Looked in the handbook and at switch on it's supposed to do that in Position II (before turning over). If it starts flashing when the engine is running it indicates a problem. I think it said flashes yellow for low oil level and red for low pressure. I left the handbook in the car. I can check again if you want, but it might not be quick as I'm moving in a coupe of weeks and the panic has set in now I've started packing/sorting out garage/emptying loft!

I suspect you have posted in the wrong section. I believe the ISOFIX was only on the MKIII.

Enter VIN on here and it tells you paint colour on there. Paint Code is also on VIN Plate

17951 17849 18027 16955 19661 They all look like possible voltage problems. Have you checked the Engine Bay Fusebox/Battery Junction Box and all your fuses? Have you checked that the smaller diameter brown ground wires on the battery terminal are still connected OK (You can see two on my diesel in the fouth photo on the Battery Junction Box link)

You need a VAG-COM/VCDS-Lite lead for the engine and electrics. Something like this from ebay

Yes it can. Does it detect the heater at all? Earrly MKI galaxy's had a 3KW heater that I don't believe is detected. Not sure when they switched to the 5KW but I believe it may have been during MKI. If you are not sure and post the model number on the heater then we will be able to tell you.

Can you post a picture of it? Is it at the front of the engine, the side or the back?

(i) Doors Hatch is probably the wiring in the gaitors that take the wires into the door by the hinges. Could be any of them, drivers door and hatch most likely. (ii) Heat/condensation in front. Is it Automatic Climate control (digitla panel below radio) or manual (rotating dials for heat/direction/fan)? If pollen filter under bonnet hasn't been changed for ages then it is probably blocked and can't suck fresh air in. What does it do in re-circulate mode when it draws air in from the cabin instead of outside. (iii) Parking Sensor. What does it do when you press the button on the dash. Single beep, long beep, does the light in the switch stay on? Have you got a MKI or a MKII? Like Gregers says look at the FAQ's first for the MKI/MKII.

The good news is you appear to have the older model of the 5kW Auxilliary (B/D5W) which doesn't seem to be as prone to controller failure as the newer D5Z-F. Can you confirm the model, it's on the label on the heater. Or provide the year of your car, I think they switched in 2004/2005 to the newer one. Have you read the big thread (29 pages!) on auxilliary/booster heaters? I seem to recall some have been prone to failure of the power feed to the heater. From memory it's a large red wire but I can't recall if it fails on the car side of the plug or on the wire between the connector and the heater. I'm not even sure if it's in that thread or one of the (many) others on this site or the other one. I believe the VAG-COM error is a pretty generic error for controller problems, but I'd expect these if the controller was getting an intermittent or low power feed. I think this thread has a download of Booster Heater information for the earlier model, with pinouts. It would be useful to see if you can measure the supply voltage to the heater if possible as that may indicate defective wiring. Does your fan come on on the booster heater, as this runs up to speed first if I recall to get the air flowing, before turning on the glow plug and then injecting the diesel to "fire it up". Easiest way to tell if the heater is functioning is the heater exhaust gets hot and you can feel/see hot exhaust from it, being careful not to burn yourself of course! Good luck

Worn motor brushes on pump. See here for replacement instructions. They seem to wear out at about 80k ish.

There are two sidelights at each side, one with the brake light and one with it's own smaller bulb next to it, I was driving round and passed MOT's with only one on each side for some time as it was the "same" one that was working.(the one with the brake light).

Have you checked the shield on the hub behind the disk hasn't been bent and is catching on the disc?

A new "more efficient pump" causing hoses to pop sounds like a load of bollocks to me. (i) While you had the thermostat out did you try turning the rotor on the water pump through the aperture where the housing fits on the block. They have been known to detach (particularly plastic rotors I believe) which means they won't circulate the water properly and it will overheat. You shouldn't be able to turn the rotor as you would need to turn the whole engine over as it is directly driven from the timing belt. (ii) There is a one way valve in the narrow return pipe to the header tank that is known to block up - you should be able to see water trickling/pumping back into the header if you start it from cold with the filler cap off. (iii) Is there still pressure in the system if you leave it overnight to cool down? All these symptoms have been described on this forum so if one sounds familiar then do a search on that and it may indicate the issue. Saying all that it does sound like the head gasket to me - there are plenty of threads that turned out to be head gasket failure without sniff test/oil in water/water in oil showing any issues. Even without the electric run on pump working (on the bulkhead behind the diesel filter) I'd be surprised if it would cause this issue as I believe it's mainly to get water to circulate into the rear heater circuit rather than for cooling. The 130 and 150 BHP variants only seem to have this running while the engine is on and not for the extra few minutes after turn off. I'd certainly flush the system and replace the coolant/antifreeze if it's looking rusty anyway.